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Posted
I put the M-18 twin into my 917H with the help of Al's switch conversion set-up. Worked real slick, mounted the relay under the dash near the battery. Tried to mow with it the other evening, but it seemed like I could not get full revs from the engine. With or without the deck engaged. Idles nice, when I move the throttle lever to full I don't get the increase in RPM's like my single cylinder tractors get. I have not had a chance to put the mechanical tach to it yet however. I have checked the high speed stop on the lever where the cable attaches, it allows the lever to move full distance of the throtttle lever handle/cable. I have checked the rest of the linkage, and it appears the same as the book says it should be. The springs are in the usual setting holes, per the M-18 repair manual. But if I manually move the actual throttle plate lever that the governor linkage is atttached to I can get what sounds like full revs. Any ideas? IS it possible to check governor function? Or could the governor be retarding the throttle? Thanks for any ideas. GregB
Posted
The new engine's throttle plate may have a slightly differnet length stroke required to go from idle to WOT compared to the older engine. I've seen this before. I think there is some sort of a standard to this so your throttle should work. I believe there may be a different set of holes in the new throttle lever more towards the center pivot that the cable can go in thus requireing less stroke from the cable to get full stroke on the engine. Am I makeing any sence?? Look for another hole in the govn. lever.
Posted
Thanks for the idea. I am using both the carb,linkage, and governor arm from the original engine. I'll check it out when I get home this evening. GregB
Posted
I've got the linkage so that when the engine is not running, the throttle lever moves the throttle plate on the carb to full stroke. But when the engine is running it still will not make high revs,unless I manually move the trottle plate lever. And then I feel the governor arm pulling it lower. Is it possible that the guy I bought the engine from put the governor assy in reversed and now it governs to idle? GregB
Posted
I don't have a Kohler twin, but the manaul at: http://www.kohlerengines.com/common/resources/tp_2204_b.pdf says to start out by pulling the governor arm away from the carb as far as it will go, grab the shaft with pliers and turn it clockwise as far as it will go, then tighten the palnut on the governor arm. Then next is to adjust the high speed stop tab under the hex bolt on the intake elbow until you can get the RPM up to what you want with the throttle all the way up. Just from the sound of it, this adjustment is the one that needs to be done.
  • 1 month later...
Posted
Finally got the adjustments figured out. I just did not have enough spring tension on the governor arm from the throttle cable. Used it to mow, but as I was mowing the engine started to smoke }:) Not from the exhaust, but from the oil draining from the flywheel end of the motor[:0] The oil level on the dipstick went from full to under the add mark in a short time. Looks like I will be pulling it back out to put a seal in behind the flywheel. How dificult is that to do? Anything to watch out for? Thanks GregB
maxtorman1234
Posted
That should be an easy job, just pull the shroud off and flywheel and replace the seal, just make sure everything is clean,
Posted
While you're at it, you should also check that the crankcase vent is working properly. Oil past the crank seals often indicates positive pressure in the crankcase.
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