Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
Roy

Finally (pictures fixed; ready to view)

Recommended Posts

Roy
My 7013S had a hacked hood and dash tower along with seat pan cracks. Dale C provided me with a 7016 hood and seat pan which I painted several months ago. I finally got around to installing the hood and seat pan. Also stold Rod H's exhaust port idea for a similiar one. Had to make a hood latch for the hacked side of the dash tower because I am not going to change it until the present battery dies. Also made a post for counterweights when using the carry all box I made. Will post on the CA box later. Anyway, pictures below are of all the above. Hood and seat pan: Left front view: [IMG]/club2/attach/Roy/HOOD%203.JPG[/IMG] Right rear view: [IMG]/club2/attach/Roy/HOOD%205.JPG[/IMG] Hood latch: [img]/club2/attach/Roy/HOOD%20LATCH%202.JPG[/img] Lights: Fixed the lights (soldered the bulb contacts to keep the bulbs tight in the sockets) while I was at it.

Exhaust port:

Spaced out seat latches: The 7016 seat was 1" longer than the 7013S seat from front-to-back so had to space the latches & mounting bracket out to fit the 7013. [img]/club2/attach/Roy/SEAT%20LATCH%201.JPG[/img] Close up of latch spacers: [img]/club2/attach/Roy/SEAT%20LATCH%202.JPG[/img] Front counterweight: [img]/club2/attach/Roy/CTRWT%201.JPG[/img] Will post pictures of the carry all box next time I have it mounted on a tractor. All now,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Roy
JH, took a little work but I have the lights working nicely. Kent, discovered today that with no seat a RBT is almost as easy to get on & off as a FDT. If it weren't for the running boards I stand up over the tractor. I like MPH's foot rests he put on his former RBT tractor. Randy, the open part facing the back of the tractor on the exhaust port allows the hood to pivot open past the exhaust pipe. Dave, yes, this is the tractor looking for a rear lift. It is hungry for the lift you sent me. Thanks to all,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Randy, I wish you would have asked the exhaust pipe question at Spring Fling. I had the 713S with my pipe extension on it. In short, there is a notch in the chrome extension that allows it to slip past and engage with the pipe on the muffler.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Roy, I don't understand the need for the spacing of the fenders. My 713S, which uses a 710 frame and has 716 (1977 version) fenders on it, fit perfectly. I had never noticed any differences in the fenders. I have four sets of that type of fender. Guess I need to measure them and see if there is any difference. My 716H has fenders off of a 710 3-speed. I have an old set that johnmonkey gave me, and I have the set on the 7116H. Also, I re-looked at your pictures. Why don't you replace the cut out dash side panel with one that will fit the existing battery. That way you have more battery options than factory. Looks like it should still fit under the hood, and can be made to look stock. I would. :D:D Almost forgot. I give you permission to use this idea. That way you don't have to borrow(steal) it from me.;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Roy
Rod, I was surprised to find that the seat pans were different sizes. Measured, and sure enough, the one I put on is 1" longer than the original one. Be interested in knowing if your seat pans, or anyone elses, are different lengths. The original pan has the "stepped" section in the front and the new one does not. Otherwise I expected them to be the same. I have another dash tower painted and ready to install but don't think the large battery will fit inside it which is why I plan to wait until the battery dies. Then I will put the new tower on and buy a battery to fit. The existing battery has a larger footprint than the available space in the stock dash towers. AC808, I like the "system" stripes too. Unfortunately I took them off the seat when I hammered it out and refinished it. MPH, I agree. A B112 is one of my favorite tractors; a FDT with a seat pan instead of fenders.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Roy, I can cut you a piece of metal to repair that dash tower. What I was saying is that a piece can be welded on that will look original, but still allow the large battery. There is sufficient clearance under the hood to allow this. A little cutting, a little welding, some body putty, some paint, and you couldn't tell it from an original that had been beat around for 30 years.;):D:D You may be surprised at how much body putty is in my AC713S.:I

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
UCD
Roy I think your seat pan is sprung out 1/2" front and back on each. That is what it looks like in the Pictures. that would explain having to add the 1" spacers for the latches

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kent
The rear of them will certainly spring. That had happened on my HB-216, and I beat the hinges back into position and had longer reinforcements welded back in -- up on the flat part of the seat deck past the hump in the back...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Roy, You brought up a good point. There is no step in that set of fenders. The ones from my 716H also had the step in them. Now I definitely need to check all of the ones I have. Those are 716 fenders that you saw on my 713S last weekend, and I think you noted that there were no spacers, but if you looked closer, you would see that they had been reshaped and had additional reinforcing welded in underneath, like Kent said about his. I remember this now that Kent brought it up about his. I agree with Maynard and Kent, I think they may have just been sprung that much.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kent
quote:
Originally posted by HubbardRA
I remember this now that Kent brought it up about his. I agree with Maynard and Kent, I think they may have just been sprung that much.
The rear hinges on my seat deck only mounted up into the hump, and they'd sprung so far that the front spot welds on the hinge had pulled out, leaving a hole in the seat deck on each side. I beat them back into position, had the original hinges welded all the way down the sides (instead of just spot welds), and then welded a short piece (12" or so ??) of flat stock on the bottom edge of the original hinges and then forward onto the flat section of the seat pan, tying it all together... Probably overkill, but no problems since...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Mystery solved! I have three sets of fenders with the ledge on the front and they are all the same size. They are from two 710s and a 716. I have a set without the ledge and it is also an inch longer than the others. The longer one is from my 7116H. So apparently the 7100/900 series that use the sprung seat do not have the ledge, and are an inch longer. Hope this helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Roy
Gang, Ah ha, my suspicions are correct. There are two different seat lengths. Thanks Rod. The "sprung seat" theory makes sense but 1" seemed to me like a LOT of flexing/stretching. We learn something new every day. Another reason I like this site. Will have to think about repairing the dash tower side. Am inclined to run "as is" until I put the new tower on. Electric lift? Maybe in the future but presently have other toys with a higher priority. Thanks to all for your input and kind comments.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
stevenj
Using the spacers is the way Simplicity intended according to these installation instructions. http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_200_1691_00_SK_S.pdf The original bolts were 5/8" long and the bolts in the kit are 1.25" long, therefore, the spacers would probably be 1/2" to 5/8" thick. But I wonder if you could not use the spacers on the seat latch bracket and make up the difference at the hinge by modifying the hinge area.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Roy
Good information Stevenj. I just added the spacers. Did not think to check the Simplicity site for instructions. I also have thought about relocating the hinge pivot point. Would be the best method, and center the seat pan over the wheels better, but is also more work. Thanks for the info and insight. I like your thinking. ^

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×