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WITom

New engine break-in

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WITom
Just this afternoon, I installed a new 20 hp Command in one of my Sunstars. All that's left is to install the clutch & put all the tin back on it. The engine came with an owner's manual, but it doesn't specify anything about break-in. Any advice? I plan to change oil & filter after the first 10 hours. Should I avoid full throttle for "x" number of hours? Avoid full load? Or just cut grass as normal? Thanks!

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comet66
I still believe in varying the RPM's in order to change harmonics and allow the rings to run around the piston and seat themselves in. But I still do a lot of things the old fashioned way.

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B.Ikard
This is one subject that misinformation flourishes.... I worked for approx. 2 years in a large diesel overhaul facility as well as put numerous gas burners together over the years for my/family/friends needs.. Over the years I have met people that would preach the following things: "You HAVE to use non detergent oil or the rings won't seat" "You HAVE to load/run the new engine hard or the cylinder walls will glaze and the rings will NEVER seat" I've allways been curious;) about all the attention paid to piston ring seating and how one would know rings were "seated" The bottom line is if you are getting excessive oil smoke from the exhaust after 1 hr operation something is wrong internally. "You have to run the #$**& out of a new engine so it wil learn to be used that way" Still scratching my head on that one... My ritual was to run unloaded on a test stand @1800 for 1 hr, correct any problems/leaks and set the engine in a crate or install in equipment/vehicle. I don't remember any problems or comebacks in over 500 engines, other than people that insist on running multi grade oil in a 2 stroke Detroit Diesel. The 1800 rpm is a benefit for cooling and oil circulation and I tend to do this on all engines cause I am old fashioned too:). I also tend to not load excessively for a few hours. Don't load/lug it too much for a few hours and you engine will be fine. Brent

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