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Posted
Talk about a FDT,I have the FD I believe. Haven't gotten much done. I am at a point where I need some advice on fixing pitted areas. Both on heavier parts and sheet metal. I have done some research on the NET but was hoping you guys would come thru as you usually do and help me to make a decision on what to purchase. I like the info on Lab-Metal (Alvin Prod) as it is a one mix item and with metal particles in it. Also it being a polyester was a factor. I do not know the cost. I am not thrilled with the use of "Bondo". But then I do not know it's composition either. I have used it before on things. Any ideas are welcome. I still keep up with the discussions as usual and the club still is great. Thanks in advance as I will be away a few days.
Posted
I use Bondo when I want to fill pitted areas just for looks. It seems to adhere well, so I have not had any problems with it flaking off. I have used both bondo and scratch filler on pits on hoods. The only place that I would be careful of using bondo is in areas where there will be known wear. It will not hold up to wear or impact. I used some on a set of wheels that I widened to smooth up welds after grinding. After 5 years, you still wouldn't be able to see where it is unless I pointed it out to you.
Posted
I have used glazing putty, it wasn't very expensive, only about $15. It fills pretty well and is not supposed to crack.
Posted
Go to parts store and ask for a spot putty. Its purpose is to fill pits and scratch marks in body work.
Posted
A pic or two would help to determine just how much pitting you're talking about. Mild pitting can be removed by multiple coats of primer with sanding between coats. More severe pits may reqiure bondo or other fillers depending on the severity. I would be careful about using bondo around high heat areas also. Maybe use something more like JB weld for that area. Dan
Posted
I have used Dura-Glass with good results. It is much harder than Bondo but also harder to sand so don,t apply too thick.
Posted
I have done some car resto work and have a process that works well. I know that the tractor parts take more abuse than a quarter on a car but these should work equally as well on a tractor. Pits are usually rust and will work thier way back through the paint if not treated. Clean, grind, sand, sand blast as much of the pits out as you can without causing damage to the panel. I like the 3M striper pads you can put on a drill Local hardware has them and they make quick work of cleaning off paint and gunk. Clean with Laquer thinner. I then treat the metal with a product call ZeroRust. It comes in a spray can and is easy to apply and UV resistant. It also can be left as is with no topcoat. POR 15 also works but the ZeroRust is easy and spray on and sandable and a quality product. Look up on web or order direct. Sand with 320. At this point a thin coat of body filler will smooth out the panel and fill any left over pits. The body filler will adhere very well to the ZeroRust. Sand fill smooth then 2 coats of primer (easier to sand than ZR) and top coat. You will end up with a panel that will not rust again. It also will have the ZR as a base coat and will prevent further damage from scratches as it is very durable if not epoxy like. Can you tell I found a product I really like. Worked wonders on a Land Cruiser Resto I did a few years ago. Rocks do not seem to scratch frame yet allows for a very smooth professional finish. Hope this helps.
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