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TimH

Kohler 20HP Magnum - Bigger Problem

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TimH
Folks: Now I need some more detailed advice. I pulled the electric PTO clutch from my Kohler in my DA 1920, and as I was running the engine to look for the oil leak around the front seal, I heard a clunk, and then oil smoke started pouring out of the muffler. I shut the engine down, pulled the air filer, and there was fresh oil in the carburator. I pulled both the heads off, and I have a little bit of oil in both the cylindars, and oil coming from the rear valve on both sides. I am no expert on these matters, but it sure looks to be serious. Any idea what is going on here? Does this mean tearing the engine apart - and at what point would I guy consider a new short block for this engine? Worst part is, the grass is really growing fast these days.

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sandyhillbill
just replaced the engine in my sunstar 20 last year. Had went the short block route previously and although it lasted several years I was never really satisfied with it. The replacement was pretty pricy @ about $2000.00 it runs just as good when it was new. The short block would probably run around $1400.00

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Al
Tim, If you turn it over with the heads off do both pistons go up an down yet? I expect it will be serious. I think I checked 0n a new short block price the other day and they are now in the 1800 to 1900 range plus freight. We have 2 kits a 20 hp kit and a 25 hp kit that replace the M engine with a Command. The Command should last about 2 to 4 times the M engine. These kits include a new drive shaft and electric clutch and PTO pulley and belts, plus the needed heat shields and the other normal stuff, like muffler control cables, wiring harness adapter, engine mounting plate, control cables, battery cables plus. If the rest of the tractor is good, you might look at this option, for not a lot more than a short block you would have a new tractor from the front of the hydro to the PTO shaft. These kits have been temp tested and are temp certified by Kohler. Just mentioned as an alternative. Al Eden

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TimH
Status Report: Both pistons operate, valves look pretty black. I don't what else to do from here. I removed the motor from the tractor. What I would like to do is figure out what is wrong and try to spend some time rebuilding/fixing the motor. In the meantime, I am thinking about the Honda 24 HP V-twin repower - $1700 or so. Anyone tried that approach? As for the Kohler, can a shop make a diagosis with the engine out of the tractor (compression test?), or is the next step to start taking the motor apart and looking for what might be broken? Maybe there is a good manual that would walk a guy through and engine rebuild.

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GregB
If you are looking for manuals on the Kohler Twin line go to their website. Under Classic engines there are sections for the Magnum line. Complete repair manuals are avaible as PDF's or you can buy thru your local Kohler shop. Good luck Greg b

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PatRarick
Since the original problem appeared to be a leaking oil seal, I'd be focusing my attention to the breather. A faulty breather could allow pressure to build in the crankcase, blowing out the seal. Replacing the seal has allowed the pressure to build again, and it's possibly pushing oil up through the valve guides. Pat

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Ronald Hribar
I think you would be happier with Al's Kohler conversion. It is engineered to fit. And it will cool properly. There will be no problems with wiring, exhaust . He even includes correct driveshaft. I think if you do anything with the original motor it would be a complete rebuild. I'd go with new motor. I wish I had when I was done with my 20 Sunstar motor.

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