Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Recommended Posts

Posted
B10 (no solenoid- key switch & push button). Started giving me starting problems (particularly on hot restart- not so much when cold) in the last two weeks but had spark and ran. Yesterday, when i could get it running, engaging mower deck would cause it to quit. Messed with carb & governor-no help there. Checked points- didn't look good. tried filing/cleanup-didn't help & lost spark altogether. Installed new NAPA green module, still no spark(grounded plug-nothing jumping). Please lead me backwards to the problem(i didn't find anything in tech tips to help).
Posted
Did you replace the points & condensor? Could very well be a shorted set of points.
Posted
I have tried that electronic trigger from NAPA on two different engines and I couldn`t get it to work either. They will take it back or at least they did mine. I use the Stens Mega Fire II on mine now and haven`t had any problems.
Posted
In my frustration with the B10, i took a non leaking gas tank i acquired 2 weeks ago & installed it in the long parked 3112V that had a badly leaking tank.I poured in gas, added the batery from the B10 & voila, a running tractor. Disconnected the points & installed the NAPA module in this now running tractor and guess what?! It wouldn't fire. When i installed it i followed the installation instructions that came with it but i was confused by their pictures, 'cuz they look backward from the written direction. Also, i found the directions from an older module i installed on a different & long gone 3212H motor & their written intructions are the exact opposite of the new one, but the pictures are the same...so, nothing to lose, i reversed the wire connections but still, the running trac wouldn't fire up until i reconnected the points. So until i can get a new module or point set what can i do to be sure i am at least getting power to my primary wire that connects to the points?
Posted
I put in a set of point & condenser. Still no spark. The key switch seems to be just a run to ground to shut it off, so i detached that wire & still no spark. I'm guessing that tis now likely means engine removal to get under that shroud & check the coil & spark plug wire. Can anyone tell me if i'm heading down the right path or is there something else i should check before i get to that stage.
Posted
When you install the cover on the points/condensor, is the wire leading into the points/condensor grounding at the cover? a bare wire might be your problem. If it is bare, it is grounding the coil at the cover. If that is not your situation, enjoy the engine removal, and check to see if any of the wires are broken at the coil. Briggs uses a block for connection of the wires that is supposed to be insulated. The insulation might be broken and the fire is going to ground at the cover. I had the wire broken at the edge of the coil, had to strip away some of the insulation and solder the wire back on, on the new old engine I just put on my Landlord. Problems on a hot restart suggests a bad coil. With the plug out, spinning the flywheel should produce a spark. If it does not, check all wires going to the condensor, first. Then, when all else fails, use a coil from a different engine to see if you can get fire. The coil on my 16 HP, used to be on a 3.5 HP.
Posted
Did you run a piece of (clean) white paper through the points after you filed them? This is very important to do after filing them.Bob
Posted
Yes, points were clean after filing & pror to installation. I Did not bother to even put the poins cover on. Can somone describe the ignition process for me, 'cuz i'm not understanding exactly how the spark gets started & makes its way to the plug. I see one wire leading under the shroud from the points, i'm guessing to the coil where it is amplified & sent to the plug. I see nothing that would then supply the initial bolt through the points. What am i not understanding here?
Posted
The flywheel and magnets would be in place of the battery as the power supply.

Posted
Thanks! This Drawing has led to other ideas to avoid an engine pull. While out in the barn woking on the 3112V to finish the readying it for duty, i spied the external coil equiped Kohler that came with a parts tractor long ago & it got me to thinking...If my coil isn't working, could i just take that external coil, mount it with a switched lead from the battery & a lead to the points & run it that way? Can i leave the internal coil & wires in place for the time being?
Posted
No problem leaving the old coil in place - I never bothered to pull them out unless I had the engine apart anyway. Step by step instructions here: [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/do_it/magneto_to_coil.htm[/url]
Posted
Thanks for the link & the info. I shold be up & running & cutting grass with it by monday & in the meantime i have my 3112V all together & running better than ever too!.
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
×
×
  • Create New...