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ZippoVarga

Portland Mud Bog/Swap Meet

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ZippoVarga
Got to meet a bunch of the gang Friday afternoon. Although I didnt have nearly enough time to spend wallering in the mud as I would have liked it still turned out to be a productive day all in all. Brought a friend and an extra tractor for her to ride while we went swampin. Wound up selling my 1968 Serf with out any of it's attachments to a fella who was tired of walking. The pocket change I got for the Serf paid for this when I got back home. [img]/club2/attach/zippovarga/Ll1.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/zippovarga/Ll2.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/zippovarga/Ll3.jpg[/img] Here is a couple close up pics of the custom made hitch assembly for the plow. It raises perfectly vertical instead of pitching the angle with the stock blade lift. Pretty detailed fab job. [img]/club2/attach/zippovarga/plow1.JPG[/img] [img]/club2/attach/zippovarga/plow2.JPG[/img] It was great to meet every one out there. I'm just sorry I didnt have more time to sit around. We still have the end of summer show though. And I plan on being there for at least a couple days. The 990314 has the front, mid and rear pto with a 23D 9hp briggs. It had sat for a number of years so I babied it back to life just long enough to discover that the bearing sleeve behind the mag was dragging and it had a REAL weak spark. So i tore it apart, honed the crank and bearing, checked my tollerances elsewhere since I had it apart already then got it ready to put a new coil pack on. I've heard of you guys talking about the newer style pointless coil's. Any one have a link to where I can get this set up for this 23D? The bgb has absolutely NO slop, as with the tranny and rear drive axle. Original goodyear tires all hold air. Even the brake band only shows minimal wear. Even though it is weathered, this tractor hasnt seen much if any severe service. The 42 inch deck is even perfect. Not even a hint of pitting anywhere. It even still had all 4 of the hood "T's", and the missing battery side cover in the pics was in the bed of the truck out of sight but not out of mind. Asked the guy if he happened to have it and it jogged his memory enough that he went and found it for me. Again, GREAT to meet the few of you that I did at Portland!!!

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RayS
I heard from a friend that it was a muddy mess and there wasn`t much there besides old tools. I would put in a electronic ignition module that way you won`t have to send the flywheel back to Briggs to have it repolarized. I maybe wrong but I don`t think they make a Magnetron iginition for the 23D just the Magneto ignition so more than likely you would have to buy the electronic ignition module for it.

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biggie_rat
Almost a swamp meet instead of a swap meet. But there was a lot of Simplicity and Allis tractors there, not necessarily parts, but tractors. I think I goofed up by not going to the auction Saturday afternoon. A lot of orange there due to the tractors not selling, but I don't have any room to put anything the way it is. B.R.

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MDB
This pic. pretty well somes up Portland....

I think these guys had a brisk business going....:D Had a good time visiting with fellow club members and got a few good deals along the way, weather was nice when we were there on Friday. All in all a very fun day.

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debshirl
yes it was a muddy mess, but still had good time looking at stuff.ran across the tallants friday and several other club members bought a mower deck for my landlord also ran across a simplicity 728 with a good tiller and all lingage but no engine. also found a 19d engine for parts stock. my friend found a blade for his gravely. all in all it was a good day for us.

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ZippoVarga
quote:
Originally posted by UCD
MFG# 990314 = Simplicity Landlord 9 hp. Not to confuse it with a MFG# 1600156 Allis Chalmers 314.
Thought Maybe, Just MAYBE the word Landlord, the big "S" and the lack of yellow paint pretty well clue'd every one in that it was NOT an A/C 314. But.....i've been wrong before. ;):p;):p Thanks for clearing that up Maynard!! I wouldnt be me if I didnt comment...lol.

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KSever
quote:
and the lack of yellow paint pretty well clue'd every one in that it was NOT an A/C 314. But.....i've been wrong before.
As Maynard said above The Allis 314's aren't yellow they are also Orange and who knows with these old tractors somebody could have put a BIG S on the grill. But now were all straight that it is a Landlord with a big S and a good find it is.

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Chris727
Zippo,I have a 23D which had a bearing problem on the flywheel side, when you say you honed the crank, what exactly did you do? Was your crank worn or just the bearing plate? Did you hone out the bearing and insert a replaceable bushing? I was thinking of this but then holes for would have to be cut in the bearing for oil to pass through. Thank You! Chris

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ZippoVarga
Not exactly sure where the possibility of confusion may come into play but.....OK. I digress. I apologize for assuming that the similarities between a 1960's tractor and a 1970's tractor with a different makers tag may be confusing and misinterpreted by members and visitors alike. There for I offer the following pictoral comparison between a "990314 and an A/C 314." Spanning a couple decades of design and manufacturing techniques and engineering between the two. The boxy looking tractor with the running boards that says Allis Chalmers 314 is the "Allis Chalmers 314" and the rounded and more esthetically pleasing tractor with out the running boards is, well....the Landlord of Simplicity fame. I hope this TOTALLY clears up any future confusion between the two totally different tractors. And, as I stated prior. This is for the benefit of our visitors and members who wish to know the difference between the two models of tractors that this sight supports. [img]/club2/attach/zippovarga/314b.JPG[/img] [img]/club2/attach/zippovarga/LL2.JPG[/img] Now.......If any one has any further questions about the differences between a 1960's Simplicity tractor and a 1970's A/C tractor then i'm sure our resident encyclopedia, aka, Maynard, aka UCD will be happy to clarify the differences for you for the LOW LOW PRICE of FREE with a one year subscription to the best tractor sight on the internet!! The floor is now yours Maynard. I hope and trust you will cater to the other members as well as you have catered to me. If not better. The more humbled, Zippo aka Sean

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ZippoVarga
Chris, I secured the crank shaft on a rotary grinder fixture and cleaned off only the high spots caused from the friction between the crank and the aluminum bearing running dry. After making sure the crank was still true and to the correct diameter I placed the faulty bearing/seal assembly into the same grinder and honed the inner wall of the bearing to clean up the high spots with a 1500 grit arbor. This machine came from Delco Remy and fortunately I was able to stay in touch with the current owner so that if needed I could use it. A local machine shop should be able to accomodate your needs as far as cleaning up a slightly abused crank and bearing with out having to "sleeve" the bearing or "turn down" the crank. What happens is....with these 23d's, the bearings "I use that term lightly" if left to sit for extended periods of time, dry out. IF your engine does not fire with in about 15-30 seconds of ignition you risk a condition known as burnishing to the bearing. This burnishing effect causes the aluminum "bearing" to rise above the low 700 degree melting temp of cast aluminum. Which in turn causes a "vulcanizing" effect to the much harder crank shaft. If an engine is hard starting and you know it has only aluminum "bearings" then you are better off only cranking for about 10 seconds at a time with a couple minute break between starting attempts. What I did with both my PTO side and Mag Side bearing sleeves was to bore out the oil galleys to nearly twice their designed depth with no increased diameter. I then bored out the passage hole and holes. As one side only has one. To twice their diameter to allow for more oil flow. "larger target" for more oil displacement to the bearings. This can easily be done with out a drill press or fancy tools. I used a ratt tail file for the galleys and a hand held drill for the oil passages. Just be sure you deburr all your work on the aluminum because one little fleck will lock up your crank or score your bearings to the point of needing replaced. I hope this helps. Sean aka Zippo.

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ZippoVarga
Well, The Landlord "990314".....(not to be confused with an A/C 314)is up and running. I had a helper when I was tearing the engine down and they didnt watch to make sure the cam and crank shaft were aligned correctly while I was on the other side of the engine making sure everything there was correctly in place. Thus........giving me a no spark condition that baffled me untill I remembered I was only on the Mag side of the engine. My apprentice has been educated on the importance of aligning the timing marks on the crank with the timing divot on the cam gear. After correcting this and bench testing, the engine fired while I was testing the coil spark and point gap using only 6 volts to turn the crank. Residual fuel in the bowl and half power resulted in an interesting display of a 23D hopping accross my work bench. Fortunately.....the residual fuel in the bowl only lasted long enough to scoot the engine to within about 3 inches of the ultimate "OOOOOPS". It stayed on the bench purely by luck. Who would have thought that half the cranking power would have actually produced enough UMPH to start it. Perhaps I should be the apprentice a while longer before bringing in one of my own....lol. Should have clamped it down I guess. Live and learn.

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UCD
99.99% of the people here use model names to describe a tractor. 90% of the people here or that come here have no idea what MFG#'s are. You were using 314 to describe the tractor. You have since edited you post to MFG# 990314 I was only stating that a MFG# 314 was not the same as a model 314. Now that a mountain has been made out of a mole hill. "Don't pet the sweaty things and don't sweat the petty things".

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