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landlord saved from dumpster


perry

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i just recently picked up a 65 or 66 simplicity landlord 2010. w/ mower deck, and matching trailer. my buddy was on a house demo, and his boss wanted him to pickup the tractor with the bobcat and toss it in the dumpster. luckly he called me. due to my work schedule i almost didnt make it. he told me it was old, and had been in the garage, but just looked to nice to throw away. i couldnt believe it when i first saw the tractor. within a few hours i brought the old girl back to life. all it needed was carb and gas tank cleaned. WOW what a nice tractor. it runs like a champ. so far i have done many misc projects and plowed/disc 2 gardens with it . i am very impressed. i was wondering if briggs and stratton offers a dipstick and tube for a older 10hp horizonal engine?? i dont care for the small hard to get at oil check plug. ill try and get some pics on here... thanks
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The oil pans for these engines are interchangeable with any of the other cast iron horizontal shaft engines all the way up to the 16hp model. While there is no top mounted dipstick for your model engine, Briggs used a short pipe/dipstick on some of the oil pans that was an extension of the fill port like you use now. It is about 4.5" or so long and helps to extend the accessibility of the oil fill on these pans. You could locate one of these and use this style. But it may require you pulling the engine out and swapping the pan.
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Before you pull and swap oil pans, check to see if it will fit with out cutting the frame. I believe you may have to trim around the oil filler area to make the newer pans to fit. I could be wrong, but all the engines with the tubed oil fillers that I have seen are in Running Board tractors. They have very different frames. Elon
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Great find, to post pictures you need to become a member, a $10.00 investment, well worth the cost. JH
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My B-10 was re-engined with a mid 70's model 240000 series with the 4-5 inch pipe and dipstick. The only modification was the hole for the oil plug in the grill support piece that wraps the front had to be made into a slot. I was around 8-9 years old when this was done so I don't know how major this was to accomplish.
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You don't need to swap out the pan. The short filler pipe is just that, a pipe. The extended fill in the pan is just a longer pipe with a dipstick in the cap. I've modified the older pans by replacing the short pipe with a longer pipe nipple of the desired length, and the corresponding pipe cap. A piece of 1/8", 3/16", or 1/4" cold rolled round rod serves as the dipstick. Once the nipple is installed, insert the dipstick rod until it bottoms in the pan and mark it at the top of the pipe or coupling. Cut it about 1/4" shorter than your mark. Drill a hole the same diameter as your dipstick through the center of the pipe cap. Insert the dipstick into the hole in the cap and weld the in place on the outside of the cap. Put 1 1/2 quarts of oil in the engine. screw in your dipstick, remove and mark the stick for your "add" mark. Add another 1/2 quart of oil and mark the stick for your "full" mark. Another method I've used follows the same procedure, but uses a shorter pipe nipple with a coupling to get the desired length, and a pipe plug instead of a cap. You don't have to modify anything on the tractor with this method. Pat
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Welcome Perry!!
quote:
Originally posted by PatRarick
You don't need to swap out the pan. The short filler pipe is just that, a pipe. The extended fill in the pan is just a longer pipe with a dipstick in the cap. I've modified the older pans by replacing the short pipe with a longer pipe nipple of the desired length, and the corresponding pipe cap. A piece of 1/8", 3/16", or 1/4" cold rolled round rod serves as the dipstick. Once the nipple is installed, insert the dipstick rod until it bottoms in the pan and mark it at the top of the pipe or coupling. Cut it about 1/4" shorter than your mark. Drill a hole the same diameter as your dipstick through the center of the pipe cap. Insert the dipstick into the hole in the cap and weld the in place on the outside of the cap. Put 1 1/2 quarts of oil in the engine. screw in your dipstick, remove and mark the stick for your "add" mark. Add another 1/2 quart of oil and mark the stick for your "full" mark. Another method I've used follows the same procedure, but uses a shorter pipe nipple with a coupling to get the desired length, and a pipe plug instead of a cap. You don't have to modify anything on the tractor with this method. Pat
Good thinking Pat,thanks for the tip!!! It's amaazing how something can be so obvious it becomes almost invisable.
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