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Posted
Just picked up a A/C 712 out of the weeds. Can't find the data plate for the catalog number, where would that be. The battery dead of course so I jump it straight to the start and she spins, yippe. No cough no sign of life. So I squirt a little gas down the carb, nothing. Give her a shot of starting fluid, nothing. Pull the plug to check for spark and notice the piston is only traveling about 3/8 to a 1/2 inch. This is not good I think? Does the K301 need a rebuild? What do you think let go inside? Wheres the data plate? Steve
maxtorman1234
Posted
Right on the top of the shroud there should be a sticker with #'s. Neither are really important, if its a k301, any rod piston and rings for that engine will fit as long as the rod has a long dipper, someone probably ran it out of oil, let it overheat ect. I'll bet you need to rebuild it.
Posted
All Numbers are important. They were put there for a reason. They are not important to a backyard shade tree mechanic, someone that doesn't know what they are for or what they are talking about. Not all engine problems in a Kohler are neglect nor are all problems in a Briggs a design flaw. Not all engines need to be rebuilt to repair a single problem. Rebuilding an engine is not just honing the cylinder and replacing rings. Rebuilding an engine is putting all areas of the engine back to within factory specs.

Posted
quote:
Originally posted by SteveP
Pull the plug to check for spark and notice the piston is only traveling about 3/8 to a 1/2 inch. Steve
Probably broke a rod. I have several Kohlers here that are the same way with broken rod. Seems like Kohlers like to break rods.
Posted
Steve, How did you measure the movement of the piston without removing the head? You cannot see the piston from the spark plug hole.
Posted
Maybe looking at a valve instead of the piston?
Posted
Graham, Maynard is right about the numbers. The serial numbers which indicate date of manufacture are very important when replacing certain parts such as the balance gear bearings as there were several kinds used.
Posted
quote:
Pull the plug to check for spark and notice the piston is only traveling about 3/8 to a 1/2 inch. This is not good I think?
As has been noted, since you can't see the piston from the spark plug hole, on a flathead Kohler (or Briggs) I think you're looking at normal valve movement. What is the compression like? I'm guessing you'll feel some, if you hold your thumb over the open plug hole and crank it, which you would not (feel), if the piston was only moving 1/2". I think I'd do some more investigation.... Peter
Posted
You guys give me new hope! :) Yes I was look down the plug hole. :I Will do a compression check TONIGHT. Still looking for the plate on tractor for catalog and serial number. There is a sticker "between your legs" as your sitting on it that says "For your saftey" but thats mostly wore and unreadable. Where is the data plate for the tractor or is there one?????
Posted
The one for my 917 is on the frame right behind the lever to engage the mower deck.
Posted
The Kohler has a battery ignition, not a magneto. If you jumped straight to the starter, there most likely was no power to the coil to give any spark. If you are going to try this again, run a wire directly from the positive lead of the jumper cable. I usually run the bare end of a wire thru the grommet that holds the toothed end onto the clamp and twist it back around itself. Hook the other end of this wire to the positive side of the coil. This gives you ignition power. Now connect to the starter. It may just fire up. If it does, then you need to get the wiring straightened out on the tractor.
Posted
Steve, the Kohlers have a automatic compression release with the exhaust valve. They will show very little compression with a normal compression tester in the spark plug hole. So don't be discouraged with a low reading.
maxtorman1234
Posted
OBVIOUSLY i did not go into detail as i have a lack of time, i gave my opinion, and thanks for the criticism, i will stop. If further info was requested, like it usually is, i would have replied in detail. I usually get smart comments about kohler engines and the briggs peices of crap being better, i suggest people on this site, not discluding me, stop being so crabby and miserable, and just help the people with questions, instead of criticizing others, 1 person in particular im talking about, is like this all the time, must realize it as many others agree. Im pretty sure i know what rebuilding an engine means, if you have it apart, you might as well do the WHOLE job right, not like a SHADE TREE MECHANIC would. FOR your info, i know what the #'s mean,I also specified that piston and rings would fit, i never said anything about balance gear bearings, i suggest people read posts before replying. Thank-you. I am not upset with everyone, many people help me out alot, and i appreciate it, but some seem to be out there to stirr up trouble.
Posted
Hi, This is not directed to or meant to belittle anyone. Regarding spec and type numbers. The family numbers "K 301" denote a family of engines. The spec # determines ALL of the details. Like what flywheel, alternator, carb, ign. system, whether it has balance gears, block face for accessory drive, crankshaft part number, blower housing, flywheel screens, starters, block type, for ex. A or S block. Accessory drives, cyl. heads, rods, oil pan, etc. In Briggs, the type determines whether it uses standard or stellite valves etc. On newer engines wiring plug interfaces etc. On a Kohler early series if I were rebuilding it, I would use the late sn. rods and Pistons. These are the same pistons and rods used in the M series engines. The rod MUST match the piston. YOU CAN NOT USE AN EARLY ROD WITH THE LATE MAHE PISTON OR VICA-VERSA. These units are cheaper and last better. As for the Kohler Briggs comments, consider them as lighthearted joshing. Like Ford and Chev rivalry. Don't get too excited about things, because 100 years from now now one will know the difference. I hope we are not headed into another controversial period that takes the fun out of this site. Don't get too excited about things, because you will never get out of life alive, and you will live longer being able to laugh at yourself and at others. Laughter is good medicine. I dearly love this site, and try to be upbeat and helpful and I hope it can continue to be this way. Just remember when you are pointing your finger at someone else 3 of your fingers are pointing at you. Lets keep it upbeat guys, and not take life so serious. Just remember when you let someone upset you, they are controlling your life. If you are in control, they CAN"T upset you. My thoughts, and they are free and are from a lunatic on the loose, Value accordingly. Al Eden
Posted
OK, Ok guys calm down. I took no ofense! The data tag on the engine is in plain sight. The data plate on the tractor is appearently gone. I ran a compression check on it last night, knowing it had a compression release, and had 100psi. Someone has done some creative wiring! The PO ran a wire off the starter solenoid to a toggle switch to the coil. Possibly to by pass a faultly ignition switch? Points look pretty burnt but the coil tested good. I'll put in new points and condesor and see what happens. Again calm down
Posted
Al, I like your way of thinking. ^ Thank you for a bit of insight on how to enjoy life. Carry on,
maxtorman1234
Posted
I also agree with your thinking Al, it is 100% correct, About the spec #'s I was also not thinking that others may not know what i do about them and what they mean about the engine. Thanks,
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