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Posted
Has anyone tried a front clutch assembly from a 3410 with a Briggs on a 716 with a Kohler? Or does the Kohler have a different mount. Thanks.
Posted
The Kohler front clutch uses a 1-1/8" shaft versus the 1" Briggs version. The "mount" could be used for either engine from what I can determine. There are three parts that make the difference and one of the parts is the cone cover.
Posted
I was thinking that the Kohler twin 18HP was the one with a 1 1/8" shaft? And a 16HP K Kohler single cylinder has the same 1" as the Briggs? The manual below leads one to belive that anyway, you need a different set of block attachment bolts, you mount the pivit in a different hole, and the bolt holding the the whole mess on the end of the crank is different. If I remember correctly, the used one I got for my K had Briggs wear marks. http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_200_4066_00_SK_SMA.pdf I think this is a manual to find out the parts needed to convert to a 1 1/8", if that is what is there on your 716: http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_200_3377_00_SK_SMA.pdf
Posted
The Kohler single cylinder 18 horse also had a 1 1/8" shaft. Of the single cylinder tractors, the only one I've seen with a 1 1/8" shaft was in a 416 and whether it was original to the tractor, I don't know. When I replaced the engine in the 716 with one from the 416, I had to have the clutch rebored and a new keyway cut to fit it on the 416 engine. As to mounting the clutch, I did just the opposite of what you are trying to do. I replaced the engine in a 710 with a 16 horse Briggs. The clutch was a bolt on job with one minor change, though I can't recall what it was. May have been only the pivot point, as 2burning suggests, may have been moving a spacer from one point to another, or maybe just a different set of mounting holes. Whatever it was, it didn't require any modification to the clutch or engine and was a pretty straightforward job. Pat
maxtorman1234
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by PatRarick
The Kohler single cylinder 18 horse also had a 1 1/8" shaft. Of the single cylinder tractors, the only one I've seen with a 1 1/8" shaft was in a 416 and whether it was original to the tractor, I don't know. When I replaced the engine in the 716 with one from the 416, I had to have the clutch rebored and a new keyway cut to fit it on the 416 engine. As to mounting the clutch, I did just the opposite of what you are trying to do. I replaced the engine in a 710 with a 16 horse Briggs. The clutch was a bolt on job with one minor change, though I can't recall what it was. May have been only the pivot point, as 2burning suggests, may have been moving a spacer from one point to another, or maybe just a different set of mounting holes. Whatever it was, it didn't require any modification to the clutch or engine and was a pretty straightforward job. Pat
Yes, all you have to do is move the pivot point like you mentioned, further out on the bracket, the clutch will fit both as most kohlers except 3&400 sereis tractors have a 1" crank. You also have to move the engagement lever on the bracket lower down on the angled part of the bracket if you have a newer starter with ring gear.
Posted
Thanks all for the input.
biggie_rat
Posted
If I get in a 3400, 700, or 7000 series that has a front clutch and, especially, if I plan on putting a snow blower on it, the front clutch is the first to thing to go before I convert it to run off of the mid-PTO unit. I usually sell the front clutches on eBay to people that think they simply 'must have it' to run a blower. I think I have sold one tractor with the front PTO, but it was a case of, I sold it shortly after I got it. B.R.
Posted
Biggie Rat's got the idea :> If there is a hole in the frame for a front pto lever it simply must be filled with a lever. If there is room on the crankshaft for a pulley, it simply must be there. While teaching my youngest daughter to mow, she was quite intrigued and impressed by all the levers on the machine :>
Posted
B.R. The front clutches are easier to come by than the 900/7100 series hitches for the snowblowers. And the adaptation I have seen on the 700/3400/7100 series for the center drive snowblower has two issues. 1- belt rubs on front tie rod, 2- the idler pulley does not line up with the snowblower hitch (thus the two positions on the 900/7100 series idler pulley and the belt kept jumping off. The tractor that was adapted (716) was put back with a front clutch. So what is your tricks to make it work? Or does it require much fabrication and welding?
biggie_rat
Posted
The method I use to convert to mid-PTO’s is pretty simple, requires a little fabrication, the original double pulley hitch, no welding and really, not too much time, maybe an hour. I have lots of ways of doing things “differently” on tractors and I see people struggling on this site with a problem and would like to help them, and some, I do. Not on this site, but by email or in person. The reason I don’t do many or any of my ‘how to’ suggestions is due to - before I even joined to simpletractors, a "leader" on this site came over to eBay and tried to prove his ‘knowledge’ and run my show by saying how there was no way my set-up would work, especially without using genuine Simplicity parts and there was no other way to do anything without factory parts, or I guess you could say, if it wasn’t done his way, there was no way. (I still have the emails if anyone is interested). So I won’t go into any of my ‘tricks’ on here and I will keep installing snow blowers with no front PTO’s on 700/7000 tractors, using my actual Simplicity parts, just rearranging this, that and the other, with very little fabrication and years of success. I won’t give the info for the conversion, but I am not to blame. B.R. [img]/club2/attach/bIGGIE_rAT/send1.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/bIGGIE_rAT/send6.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/bIGGIE_rAT/7012B.jpg[/img]
Brent_Baumer
Posted
MikeES, While I agree with your observation that those 2 issues exist and must be overcome, I must say I have seen biggie's conversion with my own 2 eyes and he has resolved both issues very simply. This is after I spent many hours trying to come up with a solution to these problems myself by using a 900 series spring loaded idler assembly/rocker (with the 2 tabs) and fabbing a bracket to fix the lower idler in place to the frame on a 3400 series machine and still having belt jumping problems. Biggie's solution requires none of that B.S. and really made me feel like an idiot for not figuring it out myself. Best of all - it works! Brent
Posted
quote:
I won’t give the info for the conversion, but I am not to blame.
And just how mature is that attitude? Or that public statement? If you don't want to participate - don't. But we don't need this...
Posted
B.R. The simplilest solution is always the best. I presonally have not spent anytime looking at this other that a quick observation of the friends tractor. He was using the hitch from the 900/7100 tractors. You have piked my interest, and I will have to look at it closer. Thanks. If I come up with a simple solution I will share it everybody, like I do with everything including my tractor pulling tips and solutions.
Posted
Mike, As far as problem number 2 (idler pulley doesn't line up with snowblower hitch), I assume you mean the single idler pulley on the hitch for the 7100 series tractors doesn't line up with the 7" pulley on the snowblower head. Last year was my first year using a newer style snowblower head with a 7" pulley, a model 1691522. I'm running the snowblower from a front PTO with a 7000 series hitch (the kind with 2 idlers, one spring tensioned). The belt didn't line up well - the blower pulley wasn't centered in snowblower head mounting brackets. Some investigation found the 7" pulley mounted the opposite way (hub to right, away from shaft) to the way they are mounted for the snowblowers manufactured for the 7000 series tractors (such as number 1690033). I also think there are more spacer washers used on the older setup. Reversing the pulley and adding a couple extra washers made the belt line up for me. You can see the difference in the parts breakdown drawings. So I'm thinking your friend has the problem in reverse - he's using an old snowblower head with a 7100 hitch which wants the snowblower head pulley closer to the shaft. Might be something to check.
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