brianbye Posted May 30, 2006 Posted May 30, 2006 Hello all, I just bought a b-112 with a 42" deck, a grader blade, a snow plow, and a tiller. The tractor engine was rebuilt in 2002 and runs very strong. The guy I bought it from was the original owner and took very good care of this machine. At purchase he provided me with all kinds of documents including the original purchase order. Anyway, the tractor needs a few things and Im clueless. I will list the stuff I want to get or projects I want to do and if anyone can help me at all I would be very gratefull as this is the first garden tractor I have owned. 1. Replace all belts 2. Lubricate everything that needs lubrication 3. Sharpen blades or replace 4. When You pull the throttle out it doesnt stick, it retracts back so I have to use a small pair of vise grips to hold the throttle out. 5. Cant figuire out how to hook up the snow plow or grader blade. Maybe missing a bracket or I may just be dumb. 6. Have to turn the fuel line to off when tractor is not running or it floods out. Owner said he replaced the fuel line and doesnt know why it does that. 7. Anything else I should do that I dont know about lol
brianbye Posted May 30, 2006 Author Posted May 30, 2006 Oh yeah I forgot, 8. Replace muffler, this thing sounds like an Abrams tank.
RayS Posted May 30, 2006 Posted May 30, 2006 First off welcome to the best site on the net for information about these old tractors. You can get the belts, blades and the muffler from and Simplicity dealer out there. Theres some that also sponsor the site. As far as the throttle cable goes you can crimp the conduit slightly and that will take care of that as well. The gas is more than likely running on the floor because of the metering valve that the float operates isn`t closing all the way do to being worn at the tip. Pictures are to be posted only by members last I knew.
brianbye Posted May 30, 2006 Author Posted May 30, 2006 Thanks and sorry, didnt know about the pictures rule
comet66 Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 Welcome Brian, I'm about 60 miles south of you in Manchester.
msiebern Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 Welcome Brian: Your AC B112 crosses over to be the same as a Simplicity 3012 or Mfg #990494. You can download the oweners and parts manual from the Simplcity web site or actually right here. The page where you log into this sight has a place at the top right of the screen to type in the number. Simply type in 990494 and you can download the manuals you need. The throttle cables on that series of Allis locked into position by turning the knob after you had pulled it to your desired speed. Just remember to turn it back the other direction before trying to slow it down. Once you get the manuals things will get a lot clearer, plus you will find a lot of help here. $10 dues for the amount of knowledge available here is a bargain. But regardless, cangrats on your acquiring a great piece of equipment. I can take pics of my B110 and blade if you cannot find it in the manuals.
HubbardRA Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 The slow leakage in the carb is a known problem with the older B/S engines. I have one that does it, and one that doesn't. If the leakage is slow enough to not affect the operation of the engine, most of us will just shut off the fuel when we shut down the tractor. This is what I do on mine. I just use one of the plastic, quarter turn, B/S shut-off valves in the fuel line. Quick and easy.
brianbye Posted May 31, 2006 Author Posted May 31, 2006 Thanks for all the input. Unfortunetly I have a new problem. I was tilling today and at full throttle the engine stalled out. Now I can start it. The ampmeter used to float when I turned the key half way on and now it does nothing. In case it has a bad alternator and the battery is just dead I am hooking it up to a trickle charger. I will let it charge for 24hrs and post the results. I worry that it isnt the battery and something else is screwed up since it started fine 2 times today. Figuired that one out now! woo hooo!!!!!!
RayS Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 Check the inline fuse behind the gas tank. If it is blown it won`t start.
brianbye Posted May 31, 2006 Author Posted May 31, 2006 When I jump the sylanoide it starts but wont turn over with the key if I dont jump the sylanoide. If this helps anyone help me I appreciate it.
RayS Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 Theres only one safety switch that i am aware of on that tractor. It is the neutral safety switch on the rearend. Lift up the seat pan and un plug the wire and hook a jumper wire to it. It more than like is that switch.
UCD Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 Clean all connections on battery negative and positive and connections from battery to Solenoid and between solenoid and starter. Also connections between Switch and Solenoid. I bought a B-112 that had been junked because it wouldn't start and the only thing wrong with it was dirty electrical connections that caused a high draw and blew the in line fuse.
brianbye Posted May 31, 2006 Author Posted May 31, 2006 Wondering If I overpayed for this thing or not. I paid $900.00 and I got a 67 b-112 with a plow, grader blade, 42 deck, a nice 32 tiller, and a disk harrow. The tractor was recently repainted. The engine and transmission were recently rebuilt (2003). She starts with a lil play on the choke and throttle and runs very stong. Every now and then She wont start with the key and I have to jump the sylinoide. She needs one bolt welded on the mower deck. All the belts except the main drive belt could use to be replaced. I have mowed, tilled, and graded without problems. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks, Brian
mhaubner Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 I have very similar tractor and have experianced much of what you have. When I think about cost I always think what it would take to replace what I have. Look at new replacment costs and $900 is a great deal for a tractor that has lasted 30-40 years and with proper care and maintance will last another 40. That is a great deal if you figure the cost per year. If the blades are old get a new set. It is important that they are balanced to save the bearings in the deck. Available at Sim dealer. As far as the muffler. When I got mine I also wanted a quieter machine so I got a new muffler. Sounded exaclty the same with the new muffler. I have seen posts here for some after market mufflers that seem like they would quiet things down. If someone has those links and could post them I would also like to revist them. If you have not become a member it is well worth the 10 bucks. there is a wealth of experiance and knowledge on this site that can save you time & money.
brianbye Posted May 31, 2006 Author Posted May 31, 2006 Thanks for the reply, I am definetely going to become a member just waiting until friday. I am now a full fletched, card carrying, member.
MrSteele Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 Mufflers? I have about decided that my Father's solution on a Briggs ZZ of installing a Powerglide Chevy muffler on his tractor is about the best that can be done. But, I do like the wonderful racket the Briggs makes unmuffled, or slightly muffled with an OEM Muffler. I have seen advice here to purchase a comfortable set of earmuffs...
brianbye Posted June 1, 2006 Author Posted June 1, 2006 Anyone know how I would find what the tire sizes? So I can replace all 4 tires?
mhaubner Posted June 1, 2006 Posted June 1, 2006 All info is on the simple tractor link above. If you have not download a manual they have lots of info. Take your time look around. Go to the Simplicity site and look around. It took me a while a lot of patience from the members but the info is all here. Looking up info is bothersome to some of the members. It took me awhile to figure that out. We are all here to help and will do what we can to get you up and running and keep you there.
brianbye Posted June 1, 2006 Author Posted June 1, 2006 Just paid dues, so now I added 2 pics to my sig. I like my new girl!!!
Recommended Posts