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SmilinSam

Case Garden Tractors

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SmilinSam
Anyone know of a websited devoted to CAse Garden Tractors? Picking up a 220 case to play with. Just looking to see what information is out there.

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SMC17
Sam I've got a 222. The only site I'm familiar with is the Yahoo group. It is pretty large and has a decent community. I like these tractors just be aware of the "runaway" tractor when going downhill. Sean

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SmilinSam
Gotta get it to run first before it will runaway downhill.:D Yeah, I know about the ins and outs of the hydraulic drives, thanks for the remider though. My intention is to try to swap a 16hp Briggs in place of the tired kohler. It remains to be seen if I can adapt a clutch to the stub shaft sticking out on the flywheel side of this briggs I have though. This could be an interesting project.

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bkassulke
Well if you are for parts or manuals you can go to this website. http://store.casegardentractors.com/ I have a Case 446 and got all of the manuals that I needed for realtively cheap and the shipping is always six bucks no matter what you buy. I ended up getting a manual for every aspect of my tractor, motor, hydraulics.... Hope that this will help you. Benjamin

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tracktor312
Hi Sam just wanted to say I have a case 130 1965 it has been my favorite tractor always runs perfect lots of power smooth have fun with it I think you will like it.the only thing on mine that isnt original is normal maint items.

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SmilinSam
Thanks for the links guys. Been looking at the engineering I am going to have to do and I think this is going to be a marriage of AC and case technology. Putting it together without buying anything new other than hardware items. Makes it a challenge, but building a working machine without money is the aim. 1) Going to incorporate a 16 HP Briggs thats a replacememnt for a B series engine. 2) Incorporating the stub shaft PTO that bolts onto the flywheel side of the briggs . Came from one of those old high wheel MTD's. 3) Since stub shaft will be too short to use the Case PTO Clutch, I am going to just use a fixed pulley on the shaft. For a clutch I will be converting the Case Idler system to the same sort of system used on the 310 AC tractors. Their PTO simply used one of the idlers as a engagement idler on a spring tensioner set up. Should work just fine. Got to find a vacuum operated fuel pump. Think I sold all the ones I did have OOOOOPs! Then have to build a steering wheel. This one is cashed out and uses a 5/8" keyed shaft. Talk about odd duck. Got a seat off a Sears, and plenty of good tires left to pick from, as well as the needed headlight lens. Looks like the only tin work to be done will be in makin clearance for the Carb Air filter, and maybe a small scoop on the hood to close over the spark plug. Going to have some fun trying to make something out of nothing and the spare parts pile.

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D-17_Dave
Sam, if you need I can re-key a steering wheel so you can use most any one desired. I have a broach key cutter kit so you can use the odd key size in the shaft and cut a new slot in whitchever one you want. If that'll help you out.

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D-17_Dave
Roy, if my camera wasn't busted I'd click a few shots off. The keyway kit consist's of several different dia. round chucks that fit inside a pulley shaft hole. Depending on what size shaft you have you select the appropriate sized chuck. This chuck has a groove cut into it as a guide for a broach key cutter. This cutter is aouns 12" or so long and has one slick side and numorous teeth on the other. The teeth are graduated to slightly increase the depth that each concuring tooth cuts. Put the desired chuck into whatever you want a keyway cut into and select the size cutter to match the key size and place this in an arbor pres to push it through. When completly pushed through the subject matter will have a keyway cut inside the hole ready to slide over a half moon or straight key on a shaft. Very handy tool to have around. This set doesn't cut anything into a shaft, but handles the externale keyways great.

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SmilinSam
quote:
Originally posted by goatfarmer
Where's the pictures?
[img]http://a2.cpimg.com/image/5E/03/58313822-8089-01A40142-.jpg[/img] I got this from a guy that the kids were horse trading with. He needed an engine like I had and wanted to trade something rather than cash, so here that something is. Some guy gave this to him because the engine was shot. Perplexing thing is that there were parts from two decks with it and if you note, the tops of the rear fenders were originally all black. This is how some of the Black Knight demonstrators were painted, with black tops on the fenders and hood with a black hood front section. I'm wondering if this wasnt originally a Demonstrator that had the hood from a regualar 220 swapped onto it seeing as how theres parts from two decks here. Probably will never know, but I cant think of any other reason the tops of the fenders would be black. Heres a pic of a 444 Black Knight I swiped off the net, not my tracctor, someone elses.... [img]http://a0.cpimg.com/image/1A/09/58314010-06d1-01A6012A-.jpg[/img]

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Roy
Dave, Where did you get the key cutter kit and what does one cost? Be a neat tool to have. Sam, Thanks for the pictures. Looks like the engine is installed backwards to a Kohler in a Simplicity. How does that work? Thanks,

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SmilinSam
quote:
Originally posted by Roy
Sam, Thanks for the pictures. Looks like the engine is installed backwards to a Kohler in a Simplicity. How does that work? Thanks,
The flywheel side faces the front of the tractor. The PTO side drives a hydraulic pump. One the earler models( from what I have learned so far) the crankshaft is double ended and a pto end stick out through the flywheel and drives the PTO clutch for the mower. Theres also a fan on the end of that side that puts air over a hydraulic oil cooler in the front of the tractor. On later models from what I have read, it looks like the PTO end was actually bolted onto the flywheel rather than being a solid part of the crankshaft. This tractor is a early one. Its a 1971. If I read my information right it wasnt too long after that that they changed to the bolt on end. I could be reading things wrong, but on one of the links provided above shows this bolt on end available for $109.00. Also these were Kohler A Blocks with the shallow pan bolted on from the bottom. Early tractors were attached diectly to the tractor frame. Later models used a Iso mount between the frame and engine.

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D-17_Dave
Sam, I had a early 60's Case with the round hood back a few years ago and it had the bolt to the flywheel extention for the pto drive on the front of the engine. I thought this was the way all the Kohlers were. I've never seen a crank go through the flywheel and drive a pulley cept from the bolt on shaft. Mine had the Case friction ball type clutch on the front shaft and then the fan. I had a lot of trouble with the clutch early on so I had a machine shop turn down the shaft a little and installed an electric clutch and put the fan right back on. This setup worked fine. It was a great looing tractor, but the hydraulic drive left something more to be desired. The tranny engaged 1 rear wheel for low, and the opposite for HI. With only one rear wheel for traction it didn't pull well. Roy, I got my kit from some left overs at an auction from a manufacturing plant. I think they are availiable through any machine services distibuter and hardware suppliers like Fastenal and such.

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maxtorman1234
I have a 222 here, Other than the fact that it would run away, and high was too fast, and low too slow, it was a pretty decent machine, i bought new lining for the clutch, baked it on and it works perfect now. From the pictures it dosent look like the fenders were originally black. Does your 220 have hydraulic lift?

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SmilinSam
quote:
Originally posted by maxtorman1234
I have a 222 here, Other than the fact that it would run away, and high was too fast, and low too slow, it was a pretty decent machine, i bought new lining for the clutch, baked it on and it works perfect now. From the pictures it dosent look like the fenders were originally black. Does your 220 have hydraulic lift?
Another perplexing thing about the black paint. See the hood front . Black paint is worn off the same as the fenders indicating that the black is applied over the cream base coat. Then to add to the idea that the fenders were originally black we have the original dealer decal applied over the black coating on the fender. Adds to the mystery. This has the manual lift. to be honest I have no idea what sorts of attachments were available for the 220's nor what options were also available.

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SmilinSam
Dave, I'll be taking the engine out later this week so I will see exactly what the shaft situation is. I'm just going on second hand information from others at this point. This is my first real experience working on a Case.

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lboy1971
I have a 220 that's mostly complete and runs. They are decent tractor for driving around. The hydraulic drive seems pretty quick. I also have a Case 120 which is the older style sheetmetal with the Eagle on top of the world emblem on the front. It has a 4 speed manual tranny and 12HP cast Kohler.

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SmilinSam
Dave, You are right, its a bolt on shaft that connects to the flywheel. Curiosity was killing the cat so I had to go out tonight and take her apart. What about the Onan shafts? Are they one piece? I may have misunderstood the people I was listening to. hey may have been talking about Onans. Any suggestions for removing the pump assembly from engine or vice versa?

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SmilinSam
Forget dropping a Briggs cast Iron in one of these. The block is way too big. Looks like it will be time to hunt up a Cub Cadet to rob a 12 Hp A Block Kohler out of. Last two years thats all that shows up ghere is Cadets. I suppose now that I am looking I'll never see another one:D In the mean time I'm dressing up a 8 Hp Kohler to use as a Case test engine. Not enough power to mow with , but it shouldnt have any problem driving the hydraulic pump to run the tractor around till I locate a suitabl cheap or free( sorry, thats the Swede coming out in me :D ) larger engine.

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D-17_Dave
Sam, the pump is self contained and sealed so removeing the 2 bolts holding it onto the block will allow it to slide off the short nub of a crankshaft. The hydroulic drive is OK for some purposes but as mentioned before most of the time it's either too fast or too slow for what your wanting to do. Plus with the gear pump instead of a positive displacement pump like the Vickers or Sundstrand, it'll change it's own speed accourding to the amount of resistive load induced by the terrain. If it were me I'd use this as a chance to convert it to a hydrostatic steup since your familiar with changeing and a little fab work by dropping the cast rear end and installing a self contained rear end with a self contained pump like it the later model mowers. Simular to the late model Simplicity's or Deere's use. Then shaft drive the hydro input from a standard engine. This would be as easy as converting the hydraulic to hydrstatic as that would require installing a high pressure motor on the rear end and putting a small hydrstatic pump on the engine. Not hard to do, but hard to come by components and I don't think you'll have the room behind the engine under the dash. The worst thing about the hydralic drive is the fact that the dash valve isn't really ment to vary the ground speed. It's merely a directional valve. So you have basicly 2 forward and 2 reverse speeds. This is probably more info than you asked for but now you have heard some options and have some idea what's involved in altering what was factory. All the front output pto setup's I've ever seen used a shaft that bolted up to the flywheel. I have these on some large older Kohler twins and I've seen the bolt on pulley setup where the sheave bolts right up to the flywheel via the bolt pattern doing away with the need for a shaft and then a pulley like the powermax's use on the Onan's.

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