Brent_Baumer Posted July 29, 2006 Posted July 29, 2006 Finally finished this project. Well, at least as far as I'm gonna go with it. There are a few things that could be done cosmetically but they can wait or let the next guy do them. Haven't tried it out in a actual working situation. Just ran everything up and down and checked for leaks. I did discover you should not over fill the reservoir, have the breather open and work the control valves. Doing that will cause one to take a bath in hydro oil. Yuck. [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/Brent_Baumer/loader1.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/Brent_Baumer/loader2.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/Brent_Baumer/loader3.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/Brent_Baumer/loader4.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/Brent_Baumer/loader5.jpg[/img]
Roy Posted July 29, 2006 Posted July 29, 2006 Brent, good looking loader and tractor. ^ Congratulations,
D-17_Dave Posted July 29, 2006 Posted July 29, 2006 Looks great. What are you running the pump off of, the front pto?
Brent_Baumer Posted July 30, 2006 Author Posted July 30, 2006 Thanks for the comments. Pump is belt drive off the front crank. Runs all the time. No PTO.
PeppyDan Posted July 30, 2006 Posted July 30, 2006 Looks good Brent. Where did you tie the loader to the frame of the tractor and did you strengthen the area at the BGB. What are you going to use this for now that you have it finished. Dan
Brent_Baumer Posted July 30, 2006 Author Posted July 30, 2006 I made a new sub-frame out of 1/4" x 2" tube steel. The rear bar is bolted on the outside of the frame where the hydro and electric lift bar goes with 3/8" x 2" L shaped bar hangers. A "mechanical genius" friend gave me the idea. Previous owner also used these holes but did not have hydro lift like I do so they bolted on the inside. In order to do this I had to cut out the running board for clearance. I got some used ones from John Holcomb to cut on. The front bar bolts to the frame underneath through existing holes just behind the engine. I did not think this would be strong enough itself so I also used a couple pieces of 3/16 x 2" bar stock bent into an L and bolted to the side of the frame. The clutch pedal interferes with the lower cylinder so I picked up a spare one, also from the "mechanical genius" to modify so it will work as well. [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/Brent_Baumer/load1.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/Brent_Baumer/load2.jpg[/img] I have read alot on here about the need to tie into the rear of the tractor and/or reinforce the gear box with custom side plates. Since I will likely sell this loader for one, and two, the previous owner apparently used this loader on a 7018H to move horse manure and did no extra re-inforcing and did not have a broken gear box issue I elected to go with a design very similar to what was on the 7018H. In looking at this, I believe if you carry the load low you will have a tendency to raise the rear end off the ground rather than point load the middle of the tractor and not stress the gear box. I also believe if you don't use the loader as a ram you will also avoid the center point load problem and again, the gear box is safe. If the next owner wants to add the prescribed reinforcements they can. I do not plan too. Thanks for all the nice comments. Brent
MDB Posted July 30, 2006 Posted July 30, 2006 Very good job Brent, Looks like you are all set to do some real work with that outfit. Thanks for sharing.
stevenj Posted July 30, 2006 Posted July 30, 2006 Brent, Looks great. Excellent work. Quite a transformation from what I saw after you first picked it up. Steve
Brent_Baumer Posted July 31, 2006 Author Posted July 31, 2006 Here's a little better pic of the tube steel:
SmilinSam Posted July 31, 2006 Posted July 31, 2006 I overfilled the resevoir on the one I had too.. Good thing I had the hole in the breather cap pointed away from me..:D
Brent_Baumer Posted July 31, 2006 Author Posted July 31, 2006 I just discovered you can very rapidly weed the garden with one of these. Tilt the bucket all the way down and go forward scraping an inch or two up like a dozer, when you get to the end do the same thing going backwards over the same row. Works great. Sure, I'm not getting all the roots, especially on the thistle, but doing the whole garden in less than 10 minutes as compared to 45min tilling, especially when it's "play time" I'll take it! [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/Brent_Baumer/garden.jpg[/img]
Guest Posted July 31, 2006 Posted July 31, 2006 you're dangerous. looks like you pretty much took care of the weeds & whatever else you had in your garden. ha ha. i hope your wife didn't have any plans for the tomatos, cucumbers, etc. Gary
Guest Posted July 31, 2006 Posted July 31, 2006 You should see the garden of weeds I'm going to take a sickle bar too, wife doesn't want me to disturb the soil for future plantings. Bucket sounds nice to pick up the mess after!
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