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Simpleton7016

48" Deck restoration

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Simpleton7016
I have been posting various pictures of my latest projects in multiple posts so I am consolidating them into one post. A common theme in all the posts is how long it takes to get anything done in 1/2 hour increments. Though I must say (again) that the electrolysis machine is my best friend because once I stripped the deck down, I can keep all the little parts soaking in it day and night. It has been a very long time, but it is starting to come together. Didn't really need to do this since I have two other functioning decks, but I (like probably all of you) want to know the mechanics of these decks inside and out. There is only one way to do that and that is to strip it down and start over. It worked great with the revitalizer. I know that thing inside and out now. If something doesn't seem right, I have the intimate knowledge of it to be able to tweak it, fix it or replace parts easier. Plus, I want one deck specifically for the leaves when they come in 6 weeks. This deck was "thrown in" with the 912 I bought in February, so the price was right. Bought in "as is condition": [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/mowerdeckprepressurewash6.jpg[/img] After a good pressure washing: [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/mowerdeckpostpressurewash6.jpg[/img] Pictures of the spacers that I was not aware of. The spacers on one side survived the disassembly, but the other side broke. [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/leftarbor16.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/rightarbor6.jpg[/img] Disassembly begins: [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/Deckdisassemble6.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/rusteddeck.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/rusteddeckbottom.jpg[/img] Thanks to the assistance and help from memebers, I was able to get these rusted bolts out. After a great deal of suggestions....I opted to grind them off. [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/rustedmandrelbottom.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/rustedmandreltop.jpg[/img] Both roller bar assembly's were badly worn. I also ground off the welds on them and will replace the bar with some 5/8's stock bar. Can someone tell me how long they are supposed to be? I wrote it down somewhere, but I think my kids got to my pad of paper and did some artwork. The long one was not a full 48" and it seems to me that the short one under the deck was 12 inches, but I do not recall. Help? [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/rollerbar.jpg[/img] Once stripped, I had the deck sandblasted: [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/sandblastdeckunder.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/sandblastdecktop.jpg[/img] After sandblasting, I found this one hairline crack. It does not appear too serious so I am opting not to address it. If I am making a huge mistake, someone please tell me. I don't have a welder so I do not know what other options I have to fix it. [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/deckcrack.jpg[/img] Next, I coated the entire deck with a rust converter and gave the underside a quick coat of primer (that's what the overspray is). [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/rustconverteddeck6.jpg[/img] I intend to put gator blades on this when done. My preference (based on limited experience) is for the "two-bolt" spindel assemblies. I think that the gator blades I purchased can be used on either tyoe of spindel because they do have a center bolt also...can someone independently confirm this? [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/gatorblade.jpg[/img] I have ALL of the other parts electrolysis'd, rust converted, primed and painted (though no pitures) but I am having a difficult time tearing apart the old mandrels. I beat the tar out of one and I believe it is beyong repair now. Aware of my frustration Bob (BLT) volunteered to come over and assist so I will have more to post once these are complete. He also gave me some really good tips to keep in mind when reassembling. I want to compose a list and take other suggestions for good tips from other members with experience with these. 1. Everyone should grease or at least lubricate their roller bars. I was unaware of this, but it makes sense when I look at how distorted my old bars were after all those years. 2. Having read through the archives, I know that opinions vary but I think I will be sure to put grease zirks in all the assemblies. I believe I read that just a couple of squirts per year should do the trick and do not over-grease. 3. There is a bolt that holds the arm of the idler pulley. Mine was frozen and I had to sacrifice it during dissassembly. Dave Emmer said "yep, that happens alot" and it can be avoided with a squirt of penetrating oil every couple of years. 4. If using a vac unit with the 48" deck, you should buy the metal deck adapter because it will cover the entire deck chute whereas the plastic one only really covers 3/4's or so. I am still searching for one myself. [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/plasticdeckadapter1.jpg[/img] 5. Using a vac unit, I found that it seems to work better with the stone guard removed. This may or may not put more stress on the deck itself, but it does seem to work better. [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/Deckpart.jpg[/img] 6. I will use anti-seize on everything I can because there is a real propensity for these things to rust. What are some other tips that y'all might have to offer?

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MarksA-C
I dont know For sure what to do about the Crack. I would take it to an Automotive shop and ask/pay them to just add a small tacweld on there. Thats what I have done with on tractor of mine. And those gator blades should mount on that deck with no problems.

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LicitySimp
Hi Erik, Nice work and super pix. I once tried JB weld, but it was too brittle. Even welding is tricky on those flanges, they are somewhat brittle themselves and crack easily. Plus, the stamping process to form the deck weakens the area too. Still, I would have someone weld each crack and than grind it flush so tightening the bolt doesn't crack it again. For my 36" deck, I'm even thinking about making rings for the top side of the flanges to spread the force out. Almost every component on these tractors is over-engineered except the decks. :( Consider the notion that 10-20 hp is being applied to the rotation of the blades against the grass... all through the arbors and their mounting surfaces. There is constant vibration and when we hit sticks, rocks, debris or over-tighten the belts, the flanges get torqued enormously. No wonder they crack. My .03

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BLT
The crack ended up being one of the arbor bolt holes and not to an adjacent hole, not a deck crack. It is so fine and small that welding it and grinding it down would screw up the mounting surface of the arbor. It took 20 or so years to get that crack and it might be another twenty before another shows up. I was at his house today helping him disassemble mower arbors. You know, tap - tap - tap and the pulley falls off, tap - tap - tap and shaft comes out, well you who have done know the drill.

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Simpleton7016
and now I know all the tricks too! Thanks Bob! The bad thing is that I probably won't have to tear any apart for another five years so I will likely forget some! But not the tap tap tap! By the way, I was amazed at your excellent aim! I would have crushed my knuckles at least a half dozen times!!! [V]

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TerryZ
Speaking of bolts.... I believe the original Simplicity bolts were Cadmium plated. For restoration proejcts I have been using grade 8 yellow plated hardware from Tractor Supply company. Not exactly the green of Cadmium but comes close. Good hardware at a great low price.

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MarksA-C
If your Still looking for bolts and Bearings, here is a like to a Simplicity Cutting Deck On ebay. I talked to the Guy and he said the Spindles spin freely with no resistance. Its good for parts, thats preets much it. Anyway, here you go... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120022095703&sspagename=ADME:L:RTQ:US:1

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Simpleton7016
(edited - sorry for the first picture....the parts are in the background. The part in the forefront is for the snowcab and unrelated to this post) Woohoo! I think I am already to begin reassambling the deck. Everything is painted and I just picked up the good roller bar assembly I needed off of e-bay. And get this....I spent the better part of the last 3 weeks de-rusting, hammering free and painting some new style arbor assembly's (with Bob's help). I even found a source for the spacers that I was going to need. But then last week I went out in the shed to look in a box of parts that my grandfather gave me years ago and lo and behold, there were three NOS old-style 1-piece complete arbors in the box. The center arbor has the wrong pulley on it, but other than that, they are perfect - if not for a little dust. So I wasted a little time....I still learned a lot. [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/painteddeckparts.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/Paintedshellorange.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/paintedshellblack.jpg[/img]

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Simpleton7016
Re-assembly begins. Pic's will be added tonight. And I'll tell you what, karma works in strange ways. I was putting the deck back together (very slowly I might add) using nothing but the parts manual I printed off of the tech pubs area. Slow, slow, slow! Then, as I was just a few passes from finishing mowing the lawn this weekend, I threw the belt. Actually, I threw the six inch pulley. The belt itself was spared. I know what caused it. I was in a hurry to mow the 3/4 acre so I took off the vac cart and was going way to fast. The nut holding the hub on the center pulley worked itself free. Before it came totally off though, it managed to irreparably booger up the hub and the spindle. Both keyways are basically shot. I ended up jamming the key in and cranking the nut down. Then I threw another nut on there for good measure....I just need it to complete one or two more mows before the new deck is complete. [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/garbledhub.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/doubleboltedpulley.jpg[/img] Now the good news. 1. I had a deck on my other maching so I parked the first and finished up with the second. The event really allowed me to prove to my wife why it is important to have two tractors. 2. Since I have been playing with arbor assemblies for the last month, I believe I have these things figured out VERY VERY well. So barring excessive rust, replacement should be a piece of cake. 3. I just happen to have a rebuilt center arbor laying around so the timing could not have been better. 4. Best of all, with the lawn recently cut, I have an opportunity to use this 'broken' deck as a template for putting the new one back together. Gosh it is so much easier to simply copy an existing than to assemble completely from a manual. Anyway, it is going back together quickly. I will add pictures shortly.

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Simpleton7016
Oh and two other things. I wanted this post to be a "how-to" for others to use in the future. I screwed around with the Idler Lever assembly for entirely too long. I had two of them re-finished and they looked the same, but something just wasn't lining up. Finally, I determined that though everything else was identical, the housing that holds the inner RACE bushing varies slightly. So note to self....be sure to use Idler Lever Assembly part # 108473 on deck number 1690021. [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/idlerarm1.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/idlerarm2.jpg[/img] It was also a pain freeing up the bushing in that same lever assembly. I finally pounded it out and ground it down so that it would spin freely and allow the idler pulley to move very easy. I think this is very important for anyone redoing a deck in the future. I also gave it a gererous helping of anti-seize before installing. Actually, I am "anti-seizing" every bolt along the way and adding lock washers wherever possible. [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/stuckbushing1.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/bushingcomingout.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/bushingout.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/grindingbushing.jpg[/img]

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johnmonkey
quote:
The nut holding the hub on the center pulley worked itself free. Before it came totally off though, it managed to irreparably booger up the hub and the spindle. Both keyways are basically shot.
I did the same with a nut on my center arbor. I made sure I torqued them to specs and not just "real tight". Great thread. JH

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Simpleton7016
latest pics...notice the anti-seize everywhere. What a mess....but a necessary evil me thinkks! [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/deckgoingbacktogether.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/deckgoingbacktogether2.jpg[/img]

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