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MarksA-C

Still have Engine Problems (Please Help)

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MarksA-C
All the work I did on my engine didnt help. I had it running for about 5 min. It still has a knock in it, it still spews smoke. I cleaned off the carbon, changed the Spark plug, and Changed the oil. I also cleaned the carb. It just didnt work, so Is there a worse problem for me to address? Or is the engine finally starting to quit?

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HubbardRA
Cam could be off by one tooth. I broke a timing belt on a Ford Ranger that I had. Set the marks correctly when I put the new belt on, but engine did not run good and was extremely low on power. After playing with this thing off and on for a couple of months and trying many different things I finally found the problem. The timing mark on the camshaft gear was off by one tooth. When I changed the cam timing, it ran like it did before the belt had broken. I also bought a car one time that did not run right, basically the same problem. On that one the belt had been replaced but was installed off one tooth from the mark. The same thing will hold true with a gear drive system like is in the garden tractor engine. My point is that an engine will run with a cam out of time one tooth, but will not run good. Sounds like the only alternative you have is to go inside the engine and start checking out the insides. Vapors blowing out the carb a phenomenon that happens with very high overlap cams. It will also happen if the intake valve is opening too soon, or not closing completely. Everything you have said makes me think the problem is with the cam. By the way, setting the valve lash closer than factory specs will also make the intake valve open sooner, because if will contact the ramp on the cam much sooner.

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mwells
Sounds to me like it needs an overhaul. Mabey a bore job, new piston rings and bearings, mabey even the crank ground. Its one of those things that you can't tell until you disassemble it. Good Luck!

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MrSteele
The knock may be lower in the engine than you have looked. If it is a rod, the only way to find it is to tear the engine down. Check the play in the rod on the shaft before breaking it down. If it is loose on the shaft...that may be your knock. The knock may also be a cracked wrist pin boss. Such a knock also usually only starts when an engine warms. You may have several problems, but will not know until you tear the engine down and check it.

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Boney
I had mine honed {spl} and valves done for $108 cash. Mine would blow smoke so bad when I started it you could hear the neighbors start closing their windows lol lol but true, since doing this it has gotten rid of the smoke and runs much better, I was told that it most likely was the valves. Sounds silly but I would make sure you are using good gas with a good gas filter, but then again I am an armature at this.

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Doll
How long have you ran this engine after the work you did on it? If things were as bad as you seemed to say, It would take a while to burn the oil from the exhaust. This may be the only reason for smoke now. Also, Baffles in the muffler can break and sound a great deal like an engine knock. Your best option in my opinion is to find a qualified mechanic ( Briggs Master mechanic ) And ask him to take a look/listen. barring that, many tool companys sell a tool much like a doctor uses to hear a heartbeat Thats made just for locating knocks. Knocks can be caused by quite a lot of things. A lose mag coil for instance. If it is a rod knock, Adding a second head gasket should reduce it by a good deal if not do away with the knock altogether. This being because most of the noise from a loose rod is caused by the piston hitting the head and the sound of the rod cap loose on the journel being less of a knock and more a purr or growl. Plastic guage ( Sold in most auto parts stores ) Will tell you how much bearing clearance you have and the Briggs manual will tell if it is in excess. That same manual will tell you how to take the oil ring off the piston and incert it into the bore then messure the gap in the ring to find how much wear you have. Crome rings cost a few bucks more but allow for a good deal more bore wear without causing excess smoke because they expand with more force and so keep contact with the walls much better. As simple as it sounds, Taking the muffler loose from the engine and removing such things as the drive pulley/belts can go a long way to helping find your trouble. IE if you remove the muffler and the engine no longer smokes you know it was burning what was left in the muffler. I wish I could tell you something more positive but without being there to hear the engine myself its just a guessing game. There are just to many things we can't know unless you mention it. Best of luck to you on this

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