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SmilinSam

Electric fuel pumps to use in L&G

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SmilinSam
What sort of inline 12V fuel pumps are acceptable to use in a Garden Tractor application if any? And whats the most psi that can be used? Been shopping around and the smallest seems to be in the 2-4 psi range.....

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firefoxz1
Basicly any pump rated for a carburator and not fuel injection should work. Car carbs have a float and needle valve also. I believe you should be safe all the way to around 12psi if your needle valve and float assy are in good condition but there is no need for that much psi's or fuel rate flow.

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UCD
Sam You will be safe using the electronic electric fuel pump for foreign carburated cars with 2 to 4 lbs psi. L&G Tractor engines have small carbs with small bowls and floats in them and the higher pressure 5 to 7 lbs psi pumps that domestic carburated vehicles use will cause them to flood out.

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D-17_Dave
quote:
Originally posted by SmilinSam
Found one at Napa here for $42 that is 2-3.5 PSI. That should work I think....
That would be the same pump as I used on my 620 so you should be good.

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PatRarick
Sam, sorry it took so long, but I finally found the tractor I was looking for. Don't know what pressure it runs, but it's pretty low. Doesn't pump much faster than what a gravity feed system supplies. On this particular tractor, the tank is under the rear fenders, behind the seat. The MTD part number is 751-0473. Bad thing is the price. Lists for about $67. Pat

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HubbardRA
Sam, You can use the low pressure pumps for imports. If the needle leaks (but didn't with gravity feed), then you need to configure a feedback system. Let me know, if you have this problem and I will send you a diagram. It is nothing more than putting a "T" in the line, with the third line returning to the top of the gas tank. This way it will not build any more pressure than it takes to pump the fuel to the top of the tank, which is the same pressure that is built up from a gravity feed system with a full tank. Just remember that the pressure is based on the height of the return line. If you use a low tank, then run that like up near the hood before going back into the tank.

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SmilinSam
That is a painfull price Pat... Rod, I have a Fuel line T here waiting already in case. Shouldnt be too hard to install a fitting of some sorts in the top of the plastic tank. The top of the tank is in the rear of the tractor and sits about 8 inches below the level of the carb inlet. I wonder if the gravity feed carbs are the same as the fuel pump equipped engine carbs? I think they are. What sort of pressure do the Kohler Mechanical pumps develop if any?

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HubbardRA
Sam, You can use a second "T" at the outlet of the tank. It is not necessary to put the line directly into the tank. since fuel levels itself, the fuel in the tank will keep the "T" and the return line full to the level of the gas in the tank. It is basically the same as running the return into the tank. It takes two of the Ts, if you do not return into the tank. Just remember that the return line must run to height of the top of a normal gravity feed tank before returning, so that it develops enough pressure. The fuel is circulated through the loop by the pump and the fuel from the tank makes up what is used by the carb. This is a trick used on motorcycle engines on pulling tractors, because the tank is usually lower than the carbs.

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PatRarick
quote:
Originally posted by SmilinSam
Shouldnt be too hard to install a fitting of some sorts in the top of the plastic tank. I wonder if the gravity feed carbs are the same as the fuel pump equipped engine carbs? I think they are.
I would think the rubber bushing and elbow such as in the bottom of the 7100 series fuel tanks could easily be mounted in the top of a plastic tank. Isn't that what the 7790/920 used for the fuel return? The carbs are the same whether the fuel is pump fed, or gravity fed. I haven't seen it on Kohler, but on some engines, Briggs offers a different needle and seat depending on the type of fuel feed. I really don't know what the difference is. With engine conversions, I've never changed the needle and seat on any of the applicable engines. The needle and seat for pump feed have worked fine with gravity feed and vice versa. May sometime run into a situation where the proper needle and seat are needed, but not yet. Pat

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SmilinSam
Got it all up and working. Seems to work pretty good. Ran a 5 amp fused line to it that comes on with the keyswitch. Running a screen type filter before the pump and a paper element type between it and the carb. I put the pump at the inside back frame of the tractor off to the side and under the tank. Good thing I put it there or I would have never seen that the rubber tank bushing was bad. Pulling around on the fuel line saw the bushing and shut off pulled out of the tank and gas everywhere. Better now in a controlled situation than when everything was running and hot...

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D-17_Dave
Sam, you stated useing a screen before the pump. Your running a plastic tank so it probably won't matter, but on a metal tank any rust particals that weren't caught be the screen would stop up the magnetic plunger on the pump. Since it's a magnetic pump the rust will collect inside the pump istead of flowing on into the finer, paper filter. Useing the plastic tank helps with this rust problem but I would normally just opt for the paper filter before the pump. Just an observation if someone else is considering this style pump on another model possibly equiped with a metalic tank.

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