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Update: Help; Need Some Dimensions


Roy

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Working on a hitch for a mid mount grader blade and need some dimensions as follows: (Refer to the attached drawing.) Length & width of the flat mounting plate with Ref. No. (#) 17 going to it. Horizontal distance from bottom of the #17 piece with three holes in it to the above flat plate. Or, the angle of the bent plate at the bottom of the piece with three holes. Hole spacing for the two holes in the #17 flat plate. Thickness of the two #6 washers. Thanks,

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;)Rod, I'm thinking Roy wants to stick to OEM,,,,;) Thickness of the two #6 washers.:D...But this may be pushing it just a tad;). Unless they are wedge washers to compensate for the curve of the blade.
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Joe, I am not sure it is to be OEM, but he probably wants to use the blade for other applications. I think I gave him the idea when I said I was going to cut down a front blade to make a mid-mount grader blade. Problem that I have is that I don't have a factory hitch to pattern mine from. My front mount blade is a modified Wheel Horse setup. As far as the washers go, I think you would probably still want the top of the mount to contact the blade to prevent rocking that could loosten the bolts. Just need some washers to prevent too much angle on the blade.
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Joe, Washers may be standard flat washers but want thickness to confirm if they are, or are not, special washers. Doubt if they are curved on the blade side but have never seen one. Rod, I am using my Brinly box scraper blade so want to leave the blade OEM and use it for both the box scraper and grader. Spent some time on ACAD last night drawing up the blade hitch to figure out what is needed and how to make it from available materials on hand. More later,
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Roy Use a thickness of washer to take up space between hitch mount and curvature of the blade. That is what the washers in that location are used for.
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Maynard/Joe/Rod, Thanks for the tips & info. I initially used shock absorber dished washers but found after using the grader the blade had loosened so I took the washers out. Now the blade curvature allows some "spring" and lets the edges of P.N. 11 (blade hitch) bite into the blade. Seems to have solved the problem. If someone has an OEM blade what I need now are the dimensions for the foot stirrups on P.N. 32 in the drawing/parts blow up I originally posted. Specifically I would like to have: The distance between the inner most points of the stirrups. The width & height of the stirrups. The distance between the stirrups and the flat bar. Since the Brinly blade I am using is only 3/16" thick it isn't very heavy. Hence, the stirrups will be handy for added down pressure. As a matter of information I ordered a Brinly blade today for $30 plus $3 handling charge plus whatever UPS ground shipping comes to. The Brinly blade will not stand the abuse MPH and some others put their blades through but will be fine for my light usage. Note the Brinly blade is on 38" long vs the 42" OEM blade. It is also a little over 9" high vs 8" for the OEM. Enough for now,
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Roy, I recommend that you fabricate the stirrups to fit your own feet, then position them so that they are usable on both RBTs and FDTs, since you have both. With the blade on the tractor and mounted on the RBT, set the blade at the maximum angle and then determine the placement of the stirrup so that is will not interfere with the running board. Just my opinion, use it as you wish.
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Rod, Backup plan is to do exactly what you said. But, would like to know the OEM dimensions if someone would provide them. Why reinvent the wheel if not necessary? Thanks,
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quote:
Originally posted by Roy
Rod, Backup plan is to do exactly what you said. But, would like to know the OEM dimensions if someone would provide them. Why reinvent the wheel if not necessary? Thanks,
Send "AC808" a PM. I sold him one last spring.
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Roy, Here's a couple of pictures of sketches I made of stirrups that I ran across. The stirrups are 6" outside-outside and the distance between the left and right stirrups is 38.5" outside-outside. All pieces are 5/16" thick and 1-1/2" wide. It looks like I missed the height of the upturned ends on the strirrups, I'd guess 1-1/2" or 2" high. The flat bar that bolts to the grader blade is 34" wide. My sketch differs from the one you posted in that the uprights to the stirrups are welded at the ends of the crossbar, however, your diagram shows that the crossbar extends past the uprights. If someone could post a picture of the factory stirrups, that might answer the question. Hope they help. Steve

This picture shows the angle of the stirrup relative to the upright. The stirrup is 4-1/2" up, then the width is 1-1/2", and the measurement to the other side is 5". Basically measuring the 3 legs of a triangle to estimate the angle between the stirrup and the upright.

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Roy, Back to what I said earlier, as far as setting up the stirrups. You can make the stirrups from the drawing above. If I remember correctly, the factory stirrup setup is designed to work on an FDT. The stirrups will interefere with the running boards on an RBT. That is why I suggested you do them on the tractor, so you could position the stirrups in a location that would work on both(a little wider apart). That is the only reason I suggested that you do it this way. Sure would be nice if you could find a short piece of 6 inch channel to make those stirrups from. I have some 4 inch, but no 6 inch. I would also consider modifications to the cross bar to allow a couple of weights to be hung on the ends of the blade. This would allow you preload the blade evenly, or put more on one end to help produce a crown if you are working on a driveway or doing some special leveling. Would be much easier than trying to stand on one foot to make it cut down on one end.[:0]:D
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Rod, Did some checking. If I put the outside edge of a 6" stirrup even with the end of the 38" blade then it will clear the running boards when the blade is turned at the 30° angle. Made the stirrups today. Welded 3/16" x 1.5" x 1" ends on a piece of 3/16" x 1.5" x 6" flat bar. OAL of the stirrup is 6". A piece of 6" channel would have been nice. Have to use what I have. Still have have to make the vertical supports for the stirrups and a 38" long piece with four holes in it to bolt to the blade. Cannot make the verticals until I have the support bar in order to find the vertical length required. Will consider your suggestion for weight brackets. Seems like I remember someone did this and posted a picture of it. Don't you think my fat body is heavy enough to work as a blade weight??? :D Getting lots of welding practice. Used the roller work support I made yesterday to cut the stock for the stirrups. :)
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Roy, I didn't want you to twist a knee or sprain your groin trying to put pressure on a blade with your legs that far apart, so I suggested some weights to assist you.:D:D
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quote:
Originally posted by Roy
Will consider your suggestion for weight brackets. Seems like I remember someone did this and posted a picture of it.
[img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/dutch/weights.jpg[/img]
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