Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

  • Announcements

    • Kent

      Sign In or Password Problems?   10/09/2016

      If you can't Sign In, you need to reset your password.  Use the Forgot Your Password link at the bottom of the Sign In screen, and the site will send you an email to reset it. If you have an AOL email account, use the Contact Us link at the bottom of the screen -- AOL is intermittently blocking email from the site.
    • Kent

      Feedback Please!   10/28/2017

      See News and Announcements forum.
Sign in to follow this  
Simpleton7016

Arbor building and compatibility

Recommended Posts

Simpleton7016
I have been very busy tearing apart numerous arbors lately. First were some "newer style" two-piece arbors. Then I realized that I did not have the spacers to make them work in my "old style" deck. No problem though cuz it was good practice (thanks again for the tips Bob). So I started learning the ins and outs of the "old style" one piece arbors. The first thing I learned is that the pulley absolutely needs to come out first. I learned this the hard way after beating the snot out of one. It is now unrepairable. As it turns out, there was a hidden set screw inside the pulley holding the key in place. I have not found any more like that, but it is something eveyone might want to watch for. It looked like it came from the factory that way. Anyone know for sure? Anyway, the pulleys do come off with a puller if you fill the keyway slot full of Kroil or other penetrating fluid a few days before. So here is what the original arbor looks like:

And here is a picture with the top drive pulley off. Notice the spacer and keyway (more on that later):

Here is a picture with the spacer off. Notice again the keyway:

Here is the hub that I am considering putting on the arbor so that I can put a larger drive pulley on. The problem is that the hub has a slot for the key up the full length of the inside. Will there be enough "key" there to hold it on without stripping it off? I think so, but I have some other spindles that have a much longer keyway slot in them.

Here is a spindle with a much longer keyway:

But then again, the actual length of the spindles varies quite a bit. Can I use the center arbor on the right for my 48 inch deck (1690021) is I take out the spacer shown above, install the hub and attach the pulley to it? Or must I use the longer spindle shown on the left?

Here are my options for pulleys. The first two on the left (6" and 5 1/2 ") will require the hub. The 3 1/2 inch pulley on the right will fit on that arbor without the hub and only using the keyway.

My preference is to install the 5 1/2 inch pulley on the pictured arbor. Will this work and perform properly? Thanks in advance again, Erik

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Simpleton7016
I am in the early stages of reassmbling the deck and I decided to crank down on the top nut of the arbor assembly. Bad idea, I stripped it. So, I took the spindle out and replaced it with another one I had just de-rusted. Here is the problem: even when I crank down on it, that top nut does not seem to go all the way over the thread of the spindle. Is this OK? Does anyone have any "tricks of the trade to make these nuts stay on? [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/enoughthread1.jpg[/img] Here is a picture of the other arbor assembly and the center assembly. The nuts are fine on these.... [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/enoughthread2.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/enoughthread3.jpg[/img]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Eric, When I re-did my 48 inch deck a couple years ago, there were thin washers on each of the arbor shafts. These were used for spacing and alignment of both the blades underneath, and the pulleys on the top. I had a friend press the bearings out and reinstall the new ones into the arbor assemblies. When I put the arbors in the deck, nothing lined up. I had to remove all of the pulleys and shuffle the washers to line up both the blades and the pulleys. I was just wondering if your placement of these washers might be the reason for the difference in the standoff of the nuts. Like I said, the blade alignment and the belt alignment are both critical for the mower to function properly. A little bit of thinking, measuring, and shimming was required with mine. I am now running commercial belts(non-Simplicity) and have not replaced one since I rebuilt the mower, so I must have gotten everything aligned properly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Simpleton7016
Yep...there are four washers in each assembly. I tried taking two off the top and the spindle would no londer spin freely. Not sure if I did something wrong, but when I put one back in, she spun free. I will have to play with it again, but it is good to know that the tolerances are very precise! Thanks. By the way, I don't have a wrench for measuring torque, but how many footpounds should these nutz get tightened to?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BrianP
I've got a 42" deck on my 3410 that uses the same 3-bolt pulley and hub combination. In my case, the nut worked loose and tore up the keyway in both the arbor shaft, and the hub the nut was supposed to hold on. That was with the key fully seated in both keyways. [:0] When I rebuild it, I plan on using red lock-tite, (the one you have to heat up to remove) in hopes of keeping the nut in place. My 7016 has a 48" deck with a splined center arbor, (no hub), and a six-inch pulley. I just tightened it up to what felt right, since I needed to get one of my machines back in service or else cut 1.5 acres with a 19" hand mower.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Roy
Erik, The nut holding the pulley to the spindle is a self-locking nut if it has not been reused too many times. Look at your fifth picture from the top. The small rectangular impression on the hex flat is where the nut has been swaged in to make it self-locking. The swaged area is how you recognize the nut as self-locking. If the self-locker is good Loc-Tite is not needed. Just a small tip/bit of info.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BLT
The shaft nuts are self locking and you can tell that by the indentation on the flat of the nut shown on the picture. If used too many times the nut loses its grip and you can almost spin it down by hand. The A-C OH book says 70 lbs on a new new nut and the 45 lbs there after. I use my impact wrench to tighten things up on my stuff. After working with CP for many years you kind of get and idea when you are at. That is not the case with with bolts that need inch pound torqeing, I use my inch pound torque wrench. The B series overhaul book from is the only print that I have seen on replacing bearings in the arbors and the the stack up of washers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×