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My HB112 failed and why you need two machines!

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Guest
I think it's the starter, let me know what you think after reading below: So after cutting the lawn, I normally take my HB112 to push with a dozer blade my grass clipping piles off the edge of the yard. Well the HB112 has been starting really hard lately and the battery is new last year. (Write the years on your batteries! And water tanks) Anyway, in the middle of plowing and in the dark, the HB112 dies... so I grab the jump box. That doesn't seem to help the ability to jump the machine. Still sounds like a dead battery. Well I listen close to the starter and actually observe the starter pulley ... the starter was making noise, but the pulley wasn't moving. Without the jump box you could hear the soleniod clicking and adding the jump box it clicked or possibly made a noise in the starter. The engine was able to turn easily by moving the starter belt, so the engine wasn't froze. Otherwise, when you need to explain to the wife why you need two machines! I got some chain, proped up the blade on a rock, and chained the blade up; one of the draw backs of a hydrolift is when the tractor fails. I then had to get my wrenches to make the neutral lever able to move; strangly never needed to move it and it was bolted on with a bracket... no longer. Next I pushed the machine to an easy access area down the hill. Grabbed the B112 and threw a chain between the two machines and pulled it up hill towards the garage. Then pushed it in the garage. There is no way that tractor was getting inside without the second machine or a few people.

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mowerman1193
I would check any and all electrical connections first...It don't matter how many jumper box's you hook up..if there is a bad connection it still will be the same..If you have a way to test the power at the starter hook up while turning the key might tell you more..

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UCD
Connect black lead from booster pack to starter frame, connect the red lead from booster pack to the post on the starter with the wire from the solenoid. Starter should turn engine normally. If not the starter is bad, if it does there is either a bad connection or solenoid is bad. To test solenoid connect black lead from booster pack to starter frame. Connect red lead to positive battery side of solenoid, short the center post of the solenoid to the battery side of the solenoid. Starter should turn engine over. If solenoid just clicks solenoid is bad or bad connection on starter side of solenoid

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firefoxz1
Being the S/G procedure seems to be covered I'll just add the bracket you removed from the tranny should be there. It is light enough to lift up a little to move the freewheel lever down but when up it should slip into the hole to secure it in place.

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Guest
All thanks! I'll test and update this. firefodz1- I need to figure out what's configured wrong because I couldn't lift up that clip piece far enough to pull the rod down. It was down about 1/2" to 3/4" and there was no way to push it down. If I flipped it over, it wouldn't work. What's strange is it sits in the seat hole... I'd want to figure this out for the future.

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I took the advise of the so many responses... THANK YOU! I found it was the starter. Quickly I took one from the shelf. 30 minutes later, my machine is back in business. Last question... how tight should I make the belt. I don't want to wear out the bearings. My initial startups seemed the belt might be too tight. BTW: The old starter was turning inside and not moving the pulley, does that sound familar?

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