I was painting the wheels, and

[GWGAllisfan 159]

I decided to paint the rear wheels on the B-10 this weekend, and while I had the wheels off the wife came out and painted one of the pulleys and fairly clearly indicated that it might be time to consider at least spray-can restoration of the rest of the tractor. I wasn’t really planning on complete disassembly, probably no further than rolling Chassis. I have a few question/requests for advice. Most of the paint on the tractor is still good though faded, so maybe just wire brush and convert the rust, and paint over? I was thinking of loading it up and going to the carwash first for a good cleaning and degreasing, since I don’t have access to a pressure washer. Maybe take the engine out first, so all the oil under it can be removed? Should I find a pipe plug to replace the BGB vent? Does the hydro lift cylinder have any “Gotchas” to worry about? Is it better to strip the paint decals and all or try to mask them and paint around them? I really hate to lose my dealership sticker. I’m new to this thing and don’t want to screw it up. All advice would be appreciated. I hope this is the right forum for this.

[FastPaul 0]

I was painting my wheels and??? ------------ Now that you got your motovation going ,DO NOT STOP Keep going,Take her apart all the way Order the decal kit ( thats whats nice about the A/C tractors) Clean her up strip her down paint her up ,But what ever you do,DO NOT STOP!! look back at last winter's post .Myself and a number of other members did some resto jobs,you'll find alot of answers to your questions there! My advice ! keep going,be persistent' Before you know it you'll be done and have a new looking vintage tractor Good luck

[Simplicity314 0]

Yes, it seems daunting, but it need not be. One of the most important things to have on hand when taking down any machine is a box of sandwich bags and a Sharpie marker. As you take it down, put all the hardware and small parts in the bags and label them accordingly (steering shaft bolts attaching bolts; tower bolts and clips; etc.) The simplicity manuals/parts break outs are outstanding in that they note bolt length and thread so you can look up where "the longer bolt" belongs. Stay organized. That's the key. The rest will take care of itself. One more thing. If you go to the car wash rinse the thing with fresh water when you get home. Most if not all car washes recycle their water these days, so you will get contaminates that are dissolved and the filters won't catch. That's most imortant in the winter, when road salt is dissolved in that water. I see these poor people unwittingly "rinsing the salt off" their newer vehicles in the winter when they're really just spraying more salt on the undercarrage.

[HubbardRA 19]

Randy, You better get to work. Got to have that tractor spruced up and ready for next year's Spring Fling. Sounds like Mama wants one for her to ride in the parade. [:0] Becky is already making plans for next year's get-together. I think she enjoyed it as much as I did. :D As far as the tractor goes, I have both replaced decals and masked around them. It depends on whether you can easily get a replacement or not. With the rusty spots on my tractor, I just sand down to bare metal, prime and paint. I have not used any rust converter, and have really not had any problems. I have a few places on my AC716H that I am going to try rust converter on, when I re-paint it. This is places that are difficult to get to when sanding. I didn't really get all the rust removed last time I sanded it.

[GWGAllisfan 159]

I'm probably going to try this during the winter. I have to clean out a garage spot before i can begin the process.

[rsnik 1]

Rod I was very impressed with the paint job on your AC/Homelite Special you posted recently. I very much like that color. There are a million shades of red and if you can find that right one it looks stunning. Best, rsnik

[rsnik 1]

Hey, GW, thanks for your help recently. I would say don't forget sanding. It's nasty work but it produces the nice finish. A power D/A sander is OK for large area but will rip the paint right off any edge or ridge or any area that changes direction in a hurry. A sanding block and hand sanding is best anywhere that is not flat. If the paint is real solid you don't have to sand it all off, just feather in the chipped out/rusted area. Check with your paint shop for these little tubes of filler that let you apply filler (mini sand the area first) in scratches, minor dings and chips so when you block out the area with a sanding block it comes out smooth ( or what's called fair in painting.) Sometimes feathering out chips and scratches, especially with a power sander, leaves low areas that ruin the smooth and fair surface look you want. Filling these areas first brings them up to the level of the surrounding area. Mini sanding is a trick where you take, like a 1 inch square piece of wood and wrap sandpaper around it so you can sand a small chipped spot without getting into the surrounding area too much. Then comes primer. The best high build primer you can get will lay a thick layer of primer on that you can sand out to really help feather in the chips, scratches and previously rusted areas. The only thing with high build primers is they may leave the final paint job looking a little dull as they are really porous by nature. Spraying a sealer primer coat over the high build primer before final painting solves this. Lastly, I dunno how the guys do it but you definitely don't want any grease and oil residue. You also don't want any dust on what you are painting or in the air. If painting in the garage I pick a windless day and hose down the garage floor and all around outside to hopefully keep any dust down. One puff of wind can pick dust up off the floor and leave this grit in your paint job. Best, rsnik

[rsnik 1]

Hey GW, come to think of it I did do some degreasing this weekend. My powerwasher just now broke so it was plan B. I found engine degreaser at WalMart for $1.14 a can that worked pretty darned good along with a scrub brush. I also bought several bottles of that jelly rust remover for short money (same stuff as Naval Jelly). Don't leave the rust remover jelly on too long as it can soften paint. I globbed the jelly on straight out of the bottle and used a paint brush to work it around. It does remove any grease residue after the degreaser and it, of course removes any small traces of rust and corrosion. Just rinse it off within, say, 10 minutes if it's on an old painted surface you don't want to have to sand down to bare metal. rsnik

[firefoxz1 4]

quote:

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Originally posted by GWGAllisfan
I really hate to lose my dealership sticker.

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Your the first person I have seen mention this. I also have two tractor that aren't bad enough for me to redo and loose this sticker. The dealer is no longer in business. If I ever do redo them I was thinking of having the decal reporduced.

[HubbardRA 19]

rsnik, Believe it or not, that tractor of mine was painted with Chevy Engine Orange from spray cans. It ended up being a nearly perfect match with the original paint on the underside of the hood. It would have been better with a little more red in the paint. I bought a different paint brand when I did the mower for it, and I like the redder color that is on the mower a little better.

[D-17_Dave 12]

You can mask over the decals or take your finger and apply petrolium jelly over anything you don't want the paint to stick to. Also even if it's just a spray can paint job that will keep the tractor from getting worse with rust till you can do a more thorough restore on it. No catches on the cyl. It's chromed and won't rust. As far as washing goes, spray everything with whatever the best degreaser is you have availiable. Wash it well. Then after some paint when reassembly is going do a real good service on it and replace all the fluids and you'll be good to go.

[rsnik 1]

Rod, Thanks for the info on that color. I think that's the one for me. Your mower may look better being little redder by getting contrasted against that Chevy Engine Red. Painting the deck a slightly different, redder red is a great idea. Would love a tractor clean and straight enough to just concentrate on painting. You never know until the fish is in the boat but someone is telling me I can come pick up this pristine 7013 down in CT this weekend. Maybe that's going to be my Chevy Engine Red dream come true. The 3414 has way too many scapes and dings to come out nice without a lot of body work. rsnik

[HubbardRA 19]

Jonathan, That tractor was nowhere near straight when I started on it. The hood came off a tractor that had been run into something. There was a crease across the middle of the grille and it was bent at about a 10 degree angle, and the spot welds that hold the grille shell to the top of the hood were all broken loose. The rear fenders had a small hole cut in the back and two large pieces missing from the lower corners in the front. It took some pop-rivets, some welding, and a lot of sanding to get that hood and the rear fenders like like they are now. Johnmonkey can verify that, he gave the hood to me. He has told me a couple times that he really can't believe that is the same hood that he threw on my trailer when I was at his place. I spent twice as much time on the hood and fenders as I did on the rest of the tractor. The painting was quick and easy, after I got the sheet metal straight. This tractor was in the works for about 1 1/2 years from the time I started on it. Of course that was governed mostly by an extreme lack of spare time to work on it.

[Simplicity314 0]

Hey Dave that petrolium jelly idea is a good tip...thanks! Sure beats masking! I gotta try that (if I ever get to my tractors).

[rsnik 1]

Hello Rod, Funny you should say that. I been looking at the old 3414 in the garage ever since I said she would take too much work. Heck, she's a solid tractor, just a bit scruffy looking. To say an honest effort, quick work over and repaint of her hood and rear tin would improve her looks is an understatement like Noah predicting rain. Plus I like that Chevy Engine Orange. I own 3 Chevys. The 66 pickup and the Z28 convertible are not exactly, but pretty much that color. rsnik

[Tiny 0]

There are 2 or 3 of those Chevy engine orange colors in Duplicolor I believe. All are very close but one is as close to a dead on match as you're going to find. I'd have to dig out in the garage but I have the paint can with the number somewhere.

[4xbill 2]

The duplicolor Red-Orange is a nice match. I think the number is 1607. But that may be the Orange. Most auto part chain stores carry both.

[DeltaBravo 0]

I see Farm & Fleet carries a "tractor restoration" line of spray bombs for us in WI, IL, IA. I haven't used them yet.

[MPH 12]

Without going too look, think I'll have to go with Bill on the Red-orange # 1607. Pretty sure thats what I used on the 725 and the 3314

[Simpleton7016 3]

Here are some pictures of a virgin deck freshly painted with the Farm and Fleet "Allis Chalmers Orange". It is close considering the faded condition of my own tractor....but it still seems a little too orangy to me.