Starter won't Start

[MarksA-C 93]

Ok, I was hauling flowers all over the place yet again. I just unloaded my trailer and it starter didin't even click. xx(Nothing.[:0] I took off the starter and the battery and looked at the wireing, no problems there. So it has to be that starter. Every time I started my engine before, it gave off a *GRINNNNNNDDDD* sound. I talked to my friend and he said I shouldn't worry, but I think that it was the problem. Any help on this would be really great. Thank You:)

[UCD 14]

If it didn't click it is either a bad solenoid or dirty/bad connections and could also be a bad battery

[MarksA-C 93]

The battery is brand new and it still had the lights working. So it can't be that battery. Thank You UCD.

[UCD 14]

Just because the battery is new and the lights were on doesn't mean that the battery wasn't discharged enough to not start the tractor. Those lights can drain the battery faster than it is being charged. You asked the question and got the answers so don't be so quick to dismiss something that you don't know anything about. I think you answered your own problem. The lights were still working.

[JJ MARSHALL 0]

if you got jumper cable hook to your battery and then hook pos to post on starter and touch the groung to side of starter, make sure you have a good grip on the starter. this is 1 way to test the starter. if the starter want turn this way hook your cables up to a battery that you know is good and then hook them up the same way as above and if this turn the starter you have probable got a bad battery. JJ

[ehertzfeld 1]

Mark, read Maynards first response. I think you'll find the answer there. He knows what he's talking about.

[MarksA-C 93]

I think I will put that battery on the charger. I also might clean up the starter a little, like the brushd and such. Sorry about that UCD. Thankl You all for the info.

[ehertzfeld 1]

quote:

---

Originally posted by UCD
If it didn't click it is either a bad solenoid or dirty/bad connections and could also be a bad battery

---

Mark charging the battery is always good to do but you mite want to consider somthing else. Read the quote above again. Not trying to be a jerk, but just trying to help you, help your self.

[MarksA-C 93]

Im sorry about that. I check everything, but I couldn't find the problem. I will have to dig into the inside of my tractor more to see whats up. I did take apart the starter and it was FULL of this blakc flacky stuff. Like black snow.

[2burning 1]

The black stuff is most likely the residue from the carbon black brushes as they wear. If you have the starter off the machine a good test for any starter is just hold the starter down and hook jumper cables off of a good battery up to the starter and see if it spins over. I haven't been paying attention to which machine you have, so I hope this applies!

[MrSteele 495]

Go back to the first response. No click usually means the solenoid is not working. That could simply be connections, or the solenoid is dead. Those Briggs starters always grind, unless they are basically new. If you have the starter off, test it with cables. If not, you can use a jumper around the solenoid, from the battery cable to the starter, taking the solenoid out of the system. If it attempts to start then, it is the solenoid, nothing else.

[ambler 0]

It could be bad battery connection to the solenoid or bad solenoid ground as well. AKA Maynard

[MarksA-C 93]

I will take a look. But with what I've done, the starter will be in great shape. I got new brushes and a new gear. I will try out the solenoid today, but first I have to take off the cab and remove the battery.

[ambler 0]

Mark, When I am screwing around with these things I have a set of 3-4 foot long battery cables so that I can put the battery on the floor and sus out the other connections.

[MarksA-C 93]

I tested the starter like you all told me and it works great now. But I bet the solenoid or the connections are the problems. Is it posible for the nuts to loosen off the bolts and drop the connections through alot of running?

[Simplicity314 0]

yes, that is possible. Are the connections really that hard to access??? The connections do not have to be loose--corrosion can also be a factor even if the connections look clean. Old played-out wires can also be a factor, impeding necessary current. A good possibility is a bad ground because there is rust or rot behind a ground connection. undo each connection and clean both the wire and where they connect with sandpaper (discnnect battery first). Sand all grounds to bare metal so you have a nice solid ground. As for the solonid, I'm sure you know you can jump the posts to get the current to the starter, or just replace the thing for 10-15 bucks. Your starter switch might also be bad, or there is rust where it is attached to the dash, causing another faulty ground. Another possibility--and a good one--is that a hot wire has been rubbing against the frame and causing a short. The insulation does not have to be worn to the copper for this to happen.

[MarksA-C 93]

Well, the starter switch is brand new. All I was able to do today was get out the battery. I got a bunch of stuff today so I was going through it all.

[ZippoVarga 75]

Over cranking or prolonged cranking will cause heat build up in todays solenoid switches rendering them useless. The arc between the two polls is intended for an intermitent engagement. Anything past 10-15 seconds of cranking on these newer solenoids wil burn them up. I suggest (only a suggestion and not intended to mix emotions) using an automotive type external solenoid instead of an OEM replacement. They are WAY more robust and can handle the low CCA's for extended periods of engagement where the plastic one's can not. And not to beat a dead dog here, but....no click will "almost" ALWAYS point to a solenoid issue or drained battery as Maynard stated. Good luck in your venture. Sean

[BrianP 1]

I had the same exact problem when I first got my 7016 back up and running. Ran great for several days, then climbed on one time, turned the key, no click from the solenoid. Being in a hurry that day, I replaced the solenoid with a spare, hopped back on...nothing. I was pretty steamed up, so I went into the house to re-group around a ham sandwich and a can of Bud. Then the "little light bulb" went on in my head, and I thought "could it be one of those blasted safety switches?" So, I went out to my shed for round 2. I jumpered across each safety switch, (I pulled the plastic connector off and inserted a short wire with a blade-type soderless connector into each terminal of the plug) being careful not to hack up the original wiring. Tested the starter...nope, back to another safety switch, bypassed it, tested the starter...nope. Grrrr! Finally found a safety switch hidden behind the voltage regulator, (it works with the hydro direction lever) jumpered it accross, and turned the key. Varoooooom! Yea! When I jumpered accross these connectors I also made sure they were corrosion free, gave each a little dab of WD-40 and wrapped with electrical tape. We have no kids and my machines are locked up, for those who may frown upon me eliminating the safety switches. If I had kids, I'd still use the above method to locate the bad switch, and then replace it. I just thought I'd pass along a unique situation I ran up against that no one else had mentioned yet. Same thing happened years earlier on my 3410, so when my "solenoid quit" I had to sit back and think real hard. Amazing what stepping away from the problem for a bit can accomplish. Regards