B1 paint question

[ehertzfeld 1]

Ok this is the winter that I'm going to get to painting the B1. My biggest problem is picking the color of yellow. I did research all the post about paint. I still don't know what to get. I heard that old cat yellow is pretty close to the original B1 color. Has anyone used that before? I'd like to get started pretty soon, but I don't want to take it apart till I decide all the details. I have enough stuff in the basement as it is now![:0] Sorry for this old beaten topic.:D

[Ketchamized 2]

Elon, Over time, I had saved paint information in a folder on my C: drive... Here's what I have saved up- they're various types of paint that acheieve almost the same thing. The below is simply a copy/paste of what other people have used. There are 3 different types used: 1st Set: Martin Senour Cross/Fire acrylic enamel Color code 4333 Allis Chalmers Yellow Color code 1528 Wimbledon White (for the wheels) CR 233 medium reducer CH 254 hardener 2nd Set: Use top quality PPG Delstar paints. On top of the bare metal a coat of acid etch epoxy primer was used. On top of that I put on a couple coats of PPG urethane primer surfacer. The top coat consists of PPG Delstar acrylic enamel mixed with a “wet look” hardener. Just a couple of the qualities of this paint are it is supposed to hold the shine and not fade, and it is supposed to repel gas and oil stains. 3rd Set: here's how i painted my car for about $50, it's actually very easy and the results are amazing. First off, get a can of tremclad real orange (or what ever color u want) in the can, not spray, yes tremclad, it is a acrylic/enamel paint which is very durable. next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow it to be painted over bare metal. next, after prepping the car get a small 4" professional FOAM rollers, it's tiny and has one end rounded off, and the other cut straight, and is a very high density foam. u also need a jug of mineral spirits to thin the paint. The thing i really like about this is that there's no mess, no tapeing the whole car, just key areas, and u can do it in your garage, since your not spraying there is virtually no dust in the air, just clean your garage first, also it does'nt really smell at all, dries overnight and it super tough paint. also it you decide to paint the car professionally later, just prep and paint, there's no need to strip the tremclad. i have done this to a few cars, and i can say it works amazing, u just have to be paitient. next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker. get out the roller and paint away, don't get the paint shaked when u buy it, enamel is stirred, otherwise you'll have bubbles in the paint for a week!!! after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand. i painted the charger using a can since your not spraying the car u use all the paint and not spray 50% in the air, use progressivly finer sand paper each time. it's not really that much work, cause u can stop and start any time, u can do just a door, or the hood, ect. do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat, wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u, depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing. laugh if you want, but for $50 ($30 for paint, about $20 for rollers, sand paper, ect...) it really looks good. also you can do these steps overnight, paint one evening and by morning u can wet sand. i have personally done alot of painting, mostly single stage acrylic enamel, and i've sprayed several cars in my garage with really good professional results, just it stinks, it's a real pain to do, easy to make a mistake, messy, and expensive. The tremclad is awesome paint, the "real orange" is an amazing hemi orange, and almost looks like it has some perl in the sun, awesome color right out of the can. Yes i painted it with a "profesional" high density foam roller. The trick is in how you thin the paint, get it as thin as possible without running, and the paint "self levels" it comes out like glass, wet sanding just makes it better, it all depends on how much time u have. i have sprayed a few cars in my garage with a single stage acrylic enamel and it's a pain, messy, stinks, ect... the tremclad is almost odorless and is really easy to work with. u can paint one day, wetsand the next and immedieatly recoat. once you got all the coats on, just wetsand and buff with a compound, then wax and your good to go. i've done 3 cars this way and the 74 beetle i did 6yrs ago, still looks awesome. the paint is cheap like $30 a gallon, you can get it tinted to any color u like. on the charger i used about 3/4 of a can, when u spray even with a HVLP gun, u still waste about 30% of the paint that just goes in the air. Tremclad is basically rust paint, but it is the new type which is a enamal. i still strip the car of chrome, bumpers, handles, keylocks, basically everything, and then just tape only using tape where i might get paint on something i don't want painted. the paint is tough, like stove paint when it's done, i've spilt gas on it in like really hot weather, and it resists stone chips really well. i had to repaint a fender on the beetle like 2 yrs ago, so i just got a small can of paint 3 yrs later and the color match is exact. enamal, or acrylic enamal then wetsand it really fine, use a spray bottle and keep the paper really wet, finish with a 1000 grit or so and then buff with a random orbit polisher using turtle wax POLISHING compound, NOT the rubbing compound, its' to harsh. it is critical to use the proper roller, it's about 4" wide and about 1 1/2" thick, and really high density white foam. it really works and is much tougher paint than todays single stage or base clear, very hard to scratch, but easy to buff. i get compliments on my paint jobs, and they never Go to Walmart and get ya some Johnson Floor wax, wash those buses good and then just get one of your old paint guns that you wont mind not using for paint again. Spray it on just like you're painting it and that dude will shine like a new paint job for YEARS!!

[wminmi 0]

doubt this helps any, but i'm using the Rustoleum Old Cat Yellow for my B-12 Looks great so far, i like it!

[ehertzfeld 1]

quote:

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Originally posted by wminmi
doubt this helps any, but i'm using the Rustoleum Old Cat Yellow for my B-12 Looks great so far, i like it!

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Could you post a quick pic of it next to the original color? I would like to compare the difference. I'm thinking of using old cat yellow. I'm going to use rattle can paint, so Rustoleum will most likely be used, as I can get it just about anywhere.:D

[HubbardRA 19]

Elon, the answer is yellow. Whatever shade you like the best.

[ehertzfeld 1]

quote:

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Originally posted by HubbardRA
Elon, the answer is yellow. Whatever shade you like the best.

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Gee, thanks Rod, that helps a whole lot:D:D:D

[Guest]

I'd be interested in your results.

[chuckb 0]

I use schoolbuss yellow on my allis's.

[ridgerunner 3]

I'm with chuckb, I like the looks of the schoolbus yellow. Thats what the Big-Ten gets. -Paul

[Ketchamized 2]

Check this link out: http://www.industrialtouchup.com/allis-chalmers.aspx

[FastPaul 0]

Elon I think the old cat yellow is a very close match.I made the mistake of using the new cat yellow thinking it was the old cat yellow when I did my B-1 over But it it still looks good ,If your going to use cans go to Milton Cat and get it I know you must drive by it a couple of times a week.It's about $5.00 a can but well worth it,The cat paint has a lot of color to it ,It covers really good,Not the fastest drying pait I've used but very durable,My B-1 still looks great !!The Cat paint dosen't seen to chip as eazy as other paints I've used Just my two cents :p:p:p:p:p

[wminmi 0]

quote:

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Originally posted by ehertzfeld
Could you post a quick pic of it next to the original color? I would like to compare the difference. I'm thinking of using old cat yellow. I'm going to use rattle can paint, so Rustoleum will most likely be used, as I can get it just about anywhere.:D

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Evening Elon ~ I'll attempt to get a pic or 2 tomorrow after work....the ones i have right now are just a crappy pic of the deck and it doesn't show real well. I'll get in the shop and see if i can get a "side by side" comparison pic for you. For what it's worth. my deck is old cat yellow, and it got knocked off the barrel i had it sitting on and onto my somewhat gravel driveway. I thought for sure i'd have to touch it up from chips/scratches, but after wiping the dirt off there wasn't even a hint that it had been dropped. Tough stuff :D

[goatfarmer 817]

Erik,there was a long thread on a Mopar website about using a roller and Tremclad. Most people had good results. I tried it on my 91 Dakota tailgate,using a roller and Rustoleum.It did OK,but ended up spraying the rest of the truck with the same Rustoleum. I like the spray look better.

[ehertzfeld 1]

Well I may have a winner! Jury still isn't in yet, but this one mite be the one. It's krylon firm & implement old equipment yellow. I got a can to test out today, and I must say, I like it. It's kinda mustard looking, not canary looking. I'm still going to get some old cat yellow and new cat yellow to test out before I make my decision. [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/Bpaint.jpg[/img] What it's siting on is the B12 grill I got with ugly Betty. I used rubbing compound to shine it up. It looks a lot closer in color than in the pic.

[wminmi 0]

rustoleum "old cat yellow" looks darn near spot on to what you have painted there.....or at least mine does. I like it

[ronb212 0]

Elon, the krylon old equipment yellow and the old cat yellow look the same , i started my blower and plow .you should see it in person.

[wminmi 0]

here's Rustoleum "old cat yellow"

[Chris727 2,137]

Elon, I have not tried the old cat yellow as it is not very easy to find for less than $7 a can for the krylon version locally. Kent has an article somewhere about the various shades used for different models. Wells Implement has a list of AC yellow paint codes for most major paint manufacturers. Spraycan paints may be easier to work with in the winter time, I used PPG omni acrylic enamel yesterday on my B110 frame. I lucked out with a good 78 degree day. It was computer matched and appears to be a nearly 100% match. It gets an excellent gloss but since it is not a rattle can, you have much more cleanup and prep work with the paint and spraygun. Its just not that practical for winter time, unless you have access to a body shop spray booth.