PGL 449 Posted January 9, 2007 I've been offered (to buy) a B&S model 221437 type 4045-01 with code 90022610. After checking past UCD info and B&S site, I know it is a 22 cu in Lhead aluminum head ci sleeve horizontal shaft (1 inch) flange mounted ball bearing engine with basic starter/alternator gear drive, built on February 26, 1990 at plant 10. I'm told it's rated at 10 hp, but that may be optimisitic. What I don't know is whether it would be a useful spare for eventual use on a Landlord or B series tractor without a great deal of adaptation. It came off a self-propelled lawn roller and did't have enough power to run the machine when the rollers were filled with water. Based on my review of the pics included with the owner's manual and parts list in PDF form on the B&S site, it looks like the major work would be getting the power out the flywheel side to the transmission by removing the recoil starter and adapting/replacing the flywheel and adding a pulley and driveline connectability. And that assumes the basic footprint is similar and wouldn't entail frame cutting and new mounting arrangements. Has anyone tried using such an engine in a tractor or have advice based on your experience? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
goatfarmer 817 Posted January 9, 2007 I pulled the original cast iron Briggs 10HP from my 3410 LandLord,and replaced it with an 11HP Briggs from about 1985 vintage.I had to make spacers to raise the engine up about 1 1/2",and I used the newer gear starter,and internal alternator.I had to buy a new regulator,but everything else was a mix of old engine parts on the new engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DMedal 1 Posted January 11, 2007 quote:Originally posted by goatfarmer I pulled the original cast iron Briggs 10HP from my 3410 LandLord,and replaced it with an 11HP Briggs from about 1985 vintage.I had to make spacers to raise the engine up about 1 1/2",and I used the newer gear starter,and internal alternator.I had to buy a new regulator,but everything else was a mix of old engine parts on the new engine. what about getting power out of the flywheel side? Do many of the B&S engines have those tapped holes needed to hook all the Simplicity stuff to? That seems to be the hard part. I'm willing to do some light machining / welding to make an engine fit when the time comes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D-17_Dave 12 Posted January 11, 2007 Most Briggs engines of 10+ HP have the bolt pattern "FOOTPRINT" and will bolt up. However you'll have to remove the starter clutch for the recoil and replce it with the standard flywheel nut and cut the crankshaft extention off that was the support for the starter clutch to get the flex drive close enough to work. Or machine an extention addapter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
goatfarmer 817 Posted January 11, 2007 IIRC,on mine(it's been about 5 years),I removed the screen that covers the flywheel,and bolted on the "pulley" that the S/G belt ran on. The driveshaft bolted right up to that piece. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites