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Replacing an alternator belt on a B-112


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I used my B-112 for the first time in snow today. What a great tractor and snowblower. It did a phenomenal job. Unfortunately, about half way through the job the alternator/starter belt broke. I finished the snowblowing and then recovered the broken belt and went down to the tractor shop to get the replacement. So far, so good. When I got home with the new belt. I took the hood off and loosened the alternator/starter, then the problem. How in the world do you get the belt on this beast. The main pully on the motor has a drive shaft coming out of it and going to the back of of the tractor. There is also a belt that goes up to the hydraulic for the lift. It looks like I have to loosen the moter, disconnect the driveshaft, take the hydraulic belt off in order to get the new alternator belt on. Is this really the routine? One more note is that this tractor has a 16hp Briggs and Stratton motor in it. I know that it's not original, but it's runs great and seemed to be a pretty good fit... until today that is. Thanks for any help you can provide. Leo
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When i replace those belts i just unbolt the motor and the two bolts holding the drive shaft and sneak the belts by. It really isn't that tough of a job just put a quality belt in, they usually last quite a while. You might have to pull the oil drain nipple out to clear the frame. Other readers might have an easier way. Good luck.
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Did you ever see those magicians that pass metal rings through each other? I always wondered how they did that! I have some large machines that take almost a day to change a belt. There are belts made that you cut to length and bolt the ends together. They are really crap and don't last long, but they work in emergency situations.
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Unless you are a really good magician, you have to do it as rich said, except that for some reason Ive always had to loosen the front two engine bolts and completely remove the back two, then remove two of the four drive shaft bolts, slightly tilt the engine forward, then slip the belt through. Once you have done it 5 or ten times, it gets to be real easy. Be careful with the driveline bolts as there are several spacer washers, take care not to lose any and get them back on the same way they came off. It is kind of hard to get the washers all lined up.
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Hi, Just remember that the washers that go against the fiberglass discs have a right and wrong side to go against the disc. When the washers are stamped they have one side that is slightly rounded and the other is sharp around the outside the rounded side goes against the fiberglass disc. If you turn them over you may experience disc failure as they may crack around the outside of the washer. Good luck, AL
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I have never loosened the engine bolts when changing the starter/generator belt or the hydraulic pump belt. Just remove the bolts and spacers holding the fiberglass disk to the flywheel and slip the belts in.
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I've only done this once on my B-210, but I did it the way Tim (tej) suggested, by taking out all 4 bolts, spacers, and disk on the driveshaft where it connects to the engine. Can't say which is the easiest way. It is a pain, regardless, I'm afraid, so I make sure to use a GOOD belt ....
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Thanks alot guys, I really appreciated all the input. I just finished the "project". I can't say that I enjoyed it, but with all the advice, I didn't run into any surprises either. It took about an hour and a half to replace the belt. I found that I didn't need to loosen the engine in my case, just remove the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft on. I'm glad you alerted me about keeping the alignment of the spacers in order. I don't think I would've paid attention to that otherwise. Anyway, it's all back together and ready to blow snow again, probably means we won't get any now. It seems you have to be part mechanic, part wizard and part voodoo doctor sometimes to keep these things going. Thank god for a site where those types exist! Thanks for all the help and have a merry Christmas! Leo Boudreau
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