Ronald Hribar Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 Yes , We got our 8 inches of snow last night. My measurement on driveway. On our last first snow storm of the season, I had 36 inch blower on my 7117. The drive belt would quit moving on the BFG, I suspected the blower. I was able to trade JD tractor for a 7116 with 42 inch blower. That worked very nicely in the next snow storm. So I took 42 off 7116 and put it on 7117. It has cab and hydro lift. Results: The 42 blower did the same on the 7117. I think I have two options. Pull the mid PTO apart and replace worn parts. I'm thinking pulley is worn out. Or maybe clutch facing gone. I think I see pulley turning while belt is not. Will have to remove cab to do this. OR this 7117 has 20 Hp Sunstar Motor with an electric clutch. I do have the correct hitch for this setup. But what belt would I use? I know questions questions !! What would you do? I could put blower back on 7116 also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehertzfeld Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 quote:Originally posted by Ronald Hribar I know questions questions !! What would you do? Buy a FDT:D}:):D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronald Hribar Posted February 24, 2007 Author Share Posted February 24, 2007 I would, but do not like the idea of dragging my feet to clear driveway.I know I have big feet but they wouldn't move much snow !!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhanDad Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 The factory belt for a 7000 series front pto setup is #174224, a 66.1" HA style belt. I run this setup on my GTHL with 7000 series hitch and the belt's a bit tight, but is ok. The factory belt would be a starting point. If the electric pto on the engine is bigger in diameter than the stock pto, or the crankshaft centerline sits higher, then a longer belt would be needed. If it's smaller, then it's the reverse. When I was mounting older snowblower heads on my Homelite, I would buy several length belts at an auto supply house (Pep Boys near me) and test fit them. Return the ones that didn't work. The blue blue/garden belts seemed to hold up better than the auto belts; but not as good as Simplcity belts. Also it sounds like the mid PTO is shot - probably wouldn't cut well in heavy grass either. Time for a overhaul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatRarick Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 I can think of four possibilities. "A", the belt is not set tight enough. "B", the belt is on the wrong pulley. One is for a 1/2" belt and the other is for a 5/8" belt. If you have it in the 5/8 groove, it could be grabbing only on the inner face of the belt and not the sides. It would then slip. "C" is worn lining in the clutch hub. "D" is a sheared key in the clutch hub. The hub can be replaced with the cab on the tractor. It can be a pain in the butt, but not as big of a pain in the butt as removing the cab just to change the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehertzfeld Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 quote:Originally posted by Ronald Hribar I would, but do not like the idea of dragging my feet to clear driveway.I know I have big feet but they wouldn't move much snow !!!!! :D:D:D:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeES Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 Pat, you covered it. Most people do not know there is a tension guide (red/green chart) on the 7100/900 series tractors. And it does work, when I have shown this to others and they have adjusted tension to the "green" zone, their belt problems have gone away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UCD Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 The belt goes in the inner pulley grove of the cone clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronald Hribar Posted February 24, 2007 Author Share Posted February 24, 2007 I had tried the belt tensioner, tried a new belt, the belt was in the small pulley. Looked at replacing Pto Clutch . Big 26x12x12 lugs and cab discouraged me. So I put on hitch for front electric clutch. Went to my stash of belts. The very first belt I took down was a 174224 belt Brand New. Added belt positioner to the pullies. Then wired clutch into my headlight wiring. Is this a bad thing to do? I do have 35 amp switches that I can use. I do not have the headlights hooked up. just unplugged them at junction and plugged clutch in. AND I did wire the groung for the clutch to motor crankcase. Let it snow !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 Ron, wire your clutch seperately to the battery. You want minimum volatage drop to preserve the clutch. The headlight circuit probably isn't big enough to handle amperage. Also make sure you keep the clutch gap around .010-012". Lastly always have engine revved up abit when snapping in clutch. I can draw you up a diagram that will let you use your circuit board and then direct connect load from battery to clutch. Little cost. Some wires and a inline fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronald Hribar Posted February 24, 2007 Author Share Posted February 24, 2007 The power source for the light switch is the ignition switch ??? What size fuse should I use ? Circuit Board ? Do you mean circit breaker ? Do you think it will be safe to use light switch until tomorrow? If not I'll put hand warmers on shovel:D:D:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeppyDan Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 I know this is a little too late but did you check the adjustment for the PTO engagement lever? You probably already did but I didn't see any else mention it!! Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronald Hribar Posted February 24, 2007 Author Share Posted February 24, 2007 that I did not do. it feels like it engages but I do not know that adjustments are correct. I bet that I have to raise seat pan to get at adjustment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayS Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeppyDan Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 quote:I bet that I have to raise seat pan to get at adjustment Yup!!! Thanks Ray for posting the adjustment. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 quote:Originally posted by Ronald Hribar The power source for the light switch is the ignition switch ??? What size fuse should I use ? Circuit Board ? Do you mean circit breaker ? Do you think it will be safe to use light switch until tomorrow? If not I'll put hand warmers on shovel:D:D:D Start out with a 20 amp. What I meant was disribution board on RH side. It is tied in with igition switch, I don't know amp rating of light switch. I would use 35 amp switch as long as you have it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronald Hribar Posted February 24, 2007 Author Share Posted February 24, 2007 BLT I have an in line fuse holder thar uses new type of auto fuses with the two prongs and it has a 20 amp fuses in it And I'll use the 35 amp switch. This kinda fit in my plans anyway. As I have a shaft driven deck that I'm going to adapt to the 7117. I also have the Sunstar front pto shaft drive. So I'll wire in clutch correctly. Dan I can see that the shiny spot on midpoint pto is about 1/4 inch. So I suspect that you are right, that it is clutch adjustment Thanks for the help Everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UCD Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 With the belt in the inside grove on the cone clutch and the belt tension adjusted correctly and the tension lever in the up position loading or plugging the blower should stall the engine. The only time the belt will slip on my 7790 is when I get to pushing snow over the top of the blower and snow gets on the belt and front pulley Other wise the engine will stall before the belt slips unless the cone clutch is out of adjustment or the lining worn out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 quote:Originally posted by Ronald Hribar BLT I have an in line fuse holder thar uses new type of auto fuses with the two prongs and it has a 20 amp fuses in it And I'll use the 35 amp switch. This kinda fit in my plans anyway. As I have a shaft driven deck that I'm going to adapt to the 7117. I also have the Sunstar front pto shaft drive. So I'll wire in clutch correctly. Dan I can see that the shiny spot on midpoint pto is about 1/4 inch. So I suspect that you are right, that it is clutch adjustment Thanks for the help Everyone Ron remind me in May about my sketch and I'll bring out some freebe pieces. BT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronald Hribar Posted February 25, 2007 Author Share Posted February 25, 2007 Lastest update, it was with great anticipation that I went out this morning to tackle the 12 inches of wet heavy snow. Flipped on switch on electric clutch . Following advice had tractor at top Rpms. Proceeded cautiously down drive way, made it through 36 inch plow truck bank at end. It was not blowing real good, but then this is wet heavy snow. Made 3 passes up driveway, and tractor started dying like the load is too heavy. In fact killed Tractor. So I shut off key and cleaned out blower. No easy way of cleaning all the snow out of auger. Finally got it cleaned out, crawled back into cab and tractor would not start, acted like it is locked up. I can not wiggle drive shaft at all. So I shoveled driveway, I'll be sore for a long time. Moved vehicles out of garage andd on to street, and pulled 7117 into garage with 7116. Project today is to put blower on 7116. I have lift removed from tractor. and put blower on. Then remove clutch from 7117 and hope motor turns over. Then remove cab and fix mid pto. After all this Do you think I could have fried the motor ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronald Hribar Posted February 25, 2007 Author Share Posted February 25, 2007 Pulled clutch off motor. The coil is completey gone. Motor started right up. Putting blower on 7116 and will put blade on 7117. I think it will be pretty useless, but it can not hurt to be ready. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronald Hribar Posted February 25, 2007 Author Share Posted February 25, 2007 7116 got the job done, then pulled cab off 7117 and adjusted pto linkage. What I do not understand is that when clutch is engaged there is no pressure on clutch. In other words "It is engaged as well as it can be. When you disengage clutch you provide about a 1/16 inch gap so clutch does drive. Wouldn't the clutch have to be badly adjusted so that it would keep that gap while engaged ? I had 1/4 inch, but that did not keep clutch from fully enged I do not think, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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