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DMedal

T16H (Simp 7016)

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DMedal
I bought this T16H (7016) in two pieces and a box of bits because the BGB was mostly scrap metal. I then bought a good BGB on eBay and have bolted it to the rear half. It is still split at the BGB, with the BGB on the rear half. This sounds like a stupid question, but are there ways to get these two halves back together that are not too back breaking? moving these is hurting. Right now I have no wheels on the aft half, maybe it would be easier with the rear wheels on? heavy iron! pics soon if needed - I realized greasy fingers and digital cam don't mix well. -Don

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Chris727
Put the wheels on both front and back, this will make it considerably easier to move, you might want to have some jackstands handy, you can jack up the front 1/2 then roll the back up to it.

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DMedal
ok, I've put the wheels on the back end, and the front is secure on wheels and jack stands. I guess I'm trying to figure out how to manipulate the back half to get it all to line up and hold it while I get the bolts in. The rolling floor jack is kind of crude. This is a 2 person job, isn't it? :) -Don

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johnmonkey
I have done it, if I remember correctly, I placed the plates on loosely until it was all aligned up and then tightened everything up. The wheels should help and I probably made some blocks with wedges to help "fine tune" it. I think the large frame tractor manual will step you through it. JH

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RayS
I support the tractor in the middle with a chain hoist. I also make sure the side plates are tight before I start and with the rear wheels on I roll the transmission into place. One person job. Good Luck.

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GregB
The last one I did I used my ATV Motor cycle lift to hold up the front end half. The back half with tires and loose side plates was positioned by using the floor jack under the rear hitch where the pin would hold the trailer. That way you use the jack to lever the plates and BGB box so that it aligns with the front half. This operation is a little easier on FDT as you have to take off the shifter access plate to get to the bolts. But the RBT's are not much more difficult, your just working from the bottom up. GregB

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PatRarick
I install the gearbox on the rear end first, with the wheels on. Support the front end at the approximate height. Doesn't have to be at the EXACT height, but close. A little low is better than a little high. I have two bolts, 7/16" coarse thread, 4" long, which I've cut the heads off of. I screw these into the front of the gearbox and use these for alignment pins. Top hole on one side and bottom hole on the other. Raise the front of the gearbox and roll the rear end to the front end, slipping the alignment pins in the front end. Slide the two haves together. The pins will hold it close enough in place that you can manipulate things a little to start the bolts in the two empty holes. Draw them up JUST to the point of holding the two halves of the tractor together, but not tight. Remove the alignment pins, install the last two bolts and tighten it all up.

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BrianP
Great Idea Pat, When I replaced the BGB on my 7016, I had the front half secure up on shop stands and used my trusty floor jack under the rear to manipulate the two halves together. I'll be sure to try this out the next time I do one of these. Fiendishly simple when you think about it.

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DMedal
The T16H is one piece again! This tip was a big help. I would suggest one change. Make one of the guide studs 4" and the other maybe 3 1/2 inches. That way you don't have to fit two ornery pins in holes at the same time. I would also grind a bit of a taper on the two pins. Trade a bit of heavy wrestling for easy grinder time. I put front on wheels and two jack stands, rear on wheels and floor jack but eventually took the floor jack out and just muscled it together. It looks SO much better in one piece. Now all the linkage to deal with. It would have helped to be there when it came apart! -Don

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PatRarick
Sorry, I neglected to mention grinding a taper on the studs. I hadn't thought of making one stud shorter than the other. That's a good tip.

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