plow hitch

[DMedal 1]

to MPH, any others who know the handy-dandy dirt plow hitch adapter shown in the drawings at: http://www.simpletractors.com/images/hitch_adaptor.jpg note part #7. I like how this gives some extra support for the lower portions of the ordinary stock hitch. I've been smithing and welding a fair enough replica of this adapter using the drawings. It looks very much like the drawing. I go to test fit the shaft #7, which would replace the pins used on the bottom of the standard hitch... you can't install it. It hits a tire. I could pull a tire, but the power I want to pull with is a LL with _duals_. Besides, I don't want to pull a tire every time I want to switch from cultivator to tiller. I could switch to two pins, but am thinking there's a reason the factory part had that long rod. What do you do with yours? Am I (once again) making a bonehead mistake? -Don

[UCD 14]

What size tires are you using? Are they stock tires or oversize? The other thing you will not be able to plow with duels in the plow furrow and plow right. The right side wheel has to run in the furrow for the plow to cut right and to the correct depth. Duels on right side will be to wide to run down in the furrow. It can be done though. Moldboard Plow Adjustment Instructions & Operation http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30380

[ehertzfeld 1]

I would think that using two separate pins would be fine in a Landlord or newer tractor. They have two ears per side, the B1 and 700/725 have just one. You would need a long single pin to stabilize the hitch. I use two pins in my Landlord with my stock hitch, you should be fine. Maynard is right about the duels wile plowing. Although I have never plowed before so I'm only going by what I have seen other do in pictures.

[DMedal 1]

ok, no dual wheels then. :) I can see Ag tires in my future. I am SO looking forward to telling the wife. On both the LL and my T16H the long pin won't go in but I'm not 100% sure about stock tires. As for the short pins, knowing that the earlier generation of FDTs only had one set of ears makes me feel better, I have two on each side! I'll go with the short pins. it is a long time til this deep black Minnesota soil is going to be anything but mud. It is still rock solid prolly 5 feet deep. But I have plans.

[MPH 12]

Maybe mine is an oddball but by '64 Landlord still has the single hitch iron. Maybe they didn't change that til they went to the 10hp model.?? I can see where the long pin may not go through the double iron as it's close on the single.

[HubbardRA 19]

Two ways to fix that problem. One is to shorten the rod till it just barely comes thru the iron, then drill new holes and put the clevis pins inside between the hitch irons. This should allow the pin to be inserted from the center of the hitch thru one side, then pulled back to go thru the other side, instead of having the full rod on the outside of one of the hitch points. Second way is to bend two S shaped pieces, drill holes in them, and weld them to the removable hitch. This will make a double connection on the removable part instead of the tractor hitch, and allow the use of a pin on each side.

[MPH 12]

Just had a thought, is the long rod even long enough to reach through the double hitch? Thinking the second iron on the double hitch is on the outside, making it overall wider.

[HubbardRA 19]

Marty, He says he has the single hitch. That is why he needed the long rod instead of the pins. At least that is the way I interpreted it. If the hitch has double bars on each side, then it is designed for pins to be used.

[MPH 12]

"He says he has the single hitch. That is why he needed the long rod instead of the pins. At least that is the way I interpreted it." I see where your coming from Rod. Went out and tried mine on the '64LL, fits no problem, the rod won't come close to going in the B-112 with the double hitch and even if it did it be too short to get the "P" keys in as the hole land in the middle of the outter iron. There is only about a short 1/4" the rod holes could be shorten up, not much sideways extra play there.

[Ronald Hribar 125]

I've never had a plow on my Simplicities. But on my MM G-1000 with duals, I had a 7-16's plow . The plow had a landhitch which allowed both duals to travel on unplowed ground. I doubt if this would work with Garden Tractor

[DMedal 1]

quote:

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Originally posted by HubbardRA
Marty, He says he has the single hitch. That is why he needed the long rod instead of the pins. At least that is the way I interpreted it. If the hitch has double bars on each side, then it is designed for pins to be used.

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Actually I have a 67 LL with two "ears" on each side. I can see where the earlier versions with just one "ear" could insert the rod at an angle and get it in. Since I also made my own rod and the online drawing doesn't indicate length, my rod is just the right length to go through all four "ears" and have room for a clip on each end. So I am realizing my long pin is probably longer the factory version maybe? But I don't think I'd only want to hook up a plow to only half the ears. After all, MPH regularily tries to pull small trees with his! -Don

[HubbardRA 19]

Don, If there are two ears on each side, then you can use two pins that can be inserted from the inside of the hitch, one for each side. Check out the two pins on the liftable hitch on my 716H. They are too long in this picture. I later cut them off to the right size.

[John_RI 8]

Don, I don't plow or have a hitch adaptor but I wonder if you could put the pin in from the center instead of from the side? If you put the right end of the pin into the right side of the hitch from the center of the tractor (from left to right) and slid it far enough so that you could slid it back to the left and through the left hitch hole. Then maybe you could use a similar process to get the adaptor on by sliding the pin, say, to the left enough to position the right side of the adaptor into place. Then slid the pin through it and enough to the right to get the left side of the adaptor into place and slid the pin back to the left and into place. I'm pretty sure this technique wouldn't work with the later hitch but it might with the single ears. Just a thought - I'm not sure it made much sense?

[MPH 12]

Your idea makes sence John, and it will work if the hitch holes are as worn as on my '64 LL. On tight holes I don't think it would slid through because of the angle you'd be holding the rod to clear the oppisite side hitch iron.

[DMedal 1]

I did try working the pin in diagonally but with fairly tight holes and 2 ears each side it just isn't going to happen. You really can't go in at an angle at all. No problem tho as I think separate pins will work fine. Now to get the rest of the welding done. Actually it will probably be fall before I do use the plow and just use the cultivator in the spring anyway. I am SO eager to have tillable dirt! (months off yet) -Don

[MPH 12]

Come on now Don, you GOTTA use the plow this spring, it's just too much fun to wait til fall:D

[DMedal 1]

quote:

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Originally posted by MPH
Come on now Don, you GOTTA use the plow this spring, it's just too much fun to wait til fall:D

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Good point, Marty. What WAS I thinking? I think the top 1/2 inch is thawed now, it has to be spring soon.