Where can I get paint?

[adamf203 0]

I went to the Tractor Supply Store and they had Allis Chalmers Orange ($22/gallon) but they don't carry any Allis Chalmers yellow. Does anyone know where I can order the new yellow color for my B-212 or is it out of production and am I going to have to paint the tractor Orange?

[BLT 725]

Beauty and color are in the eyes of the beholder. I have seen maybe 24 shades of yellow and they are all close or maybe one of them is the right one. I don't recall an aftermarket yellow for the A-C garden tractors being available. That said, you will probably get a zillion ideas what has worked best for other people. I could probably post something that I painted in original Simplicity orange of that era and draw a discussion. Don't paint the tractor an orange color just because yellow wasn't available. Take your time and you'll find what suits you.

[Killer_A-C 0]

We use equipment yellow from TSC.Like the color pretty well,Matt

[skot71 0]

I bought spray paint at Tractor Supply. It's Valspar tractor & equipment paint. 5339-07 Transport Yellow. Not an exact match for my B-207, but real close. But your B-212 could be a different yellow than mine. Search around the site for pics and see what others have used. This paint topic has been around a while, and like Bob said, there's many out there that could work. Another option is to have the paint computer matched at a paint store. Take a piece of the tractor that hasn't been exposed to the sun (underneath the hood, etc.) to the store for an exact match. It all depends on how "picky" (don't mean that in a negative way) you are. Good luck!

[AllisPhreak 0]

On the subject of painting one's tractor. I am about to dis-assemble my tractor for paint, but I never was happy with the finish produced with Rustoleum products. I really would like to get paint that would provide the same finish, sheen, and durability of a new tractor's paint. Is there a hidden proceedure one uses to get the same finish as a nbew tractor ? Does one clear coat ? A special additive to the paint that hardens the finished product ?

[adamf203 0]

I think that you should definitely clear coat - the clear gives you that extra depth and glossy finish - ill let you know exactly how i paint my at the bodyshop when we do it in a couple weeks

[AllisPhreak 0]

Excellent. Painting is a mystery to me. I paint houses for a living, but I am quite sure this is a whole different can of worms. But I DO have a new air compressor and spray painter ! :p I look forward to your advice in the coming weeks !

[AllisPhreak 0]

Oh, and another question.... Should I use an airless sprayer (that I use in house spraying) or the sprayer & cup ? I ask this because in all the body shops I have seen, they use an air compressor and sprayer & cup. Does the two methods give a different finish ?

[adamf203 0]

Im not sure - its my families bodyshop and they are just doing the work for me - they use the sprayer and cup so thats what i would suggest - im still in school right now - semester ends may 5th so thats when my project will start - ill keep you informed

[Chris727 2,142]

I would get it computer matched if you can locally. Well's implement has a list of paint codes on their site, might be worth checking out.

[cahickm2 0]

I have had problems with the Valspar Allis Chalmers Orange. However, I used rattle cans. This paint is oil based, and peels very easily. In my opinion, your best bet if you used this type of paint is to buy the hardener that Valspar makes. I think its like $8 per can. All you do is mix it with the paint that you put in your spray gun.

[dlcentral 1]

very close to exact match is old cat yellow but not the new cat color.or any good paint store will match a color sample you might have.take a piece from the underside that wasnt faded by the sun thats what I do,,

[Morris 0]

Allisphreak, I wouldn't use an airless sprayer, unless it is very high quality. they have a tendency to "sputter" at times and toss out splatters of paint if the nozzle gets a little clogged, and you never know when that's about to happen. Of course, the quality of the paint has something to do with that as well. I believe they work at lower pressures than an airgun, hence the airgun has a better, finer spray stream and less mess. FYI, if your tractor has any pitting, rusty spots and uneveness in the metal, such as small dents and divots, some Bondo and sanding will work wonders in smoothing it all out prior to paint. I'm in the process of tearing my B-1 down now and there's one spot where it looks like battery acid leaked all down the side, badly rusted. Once the rust is ground out I plan to put a thin layer of Bondo on it and smooth it all down.

[FastPaul 0]

Clear coat looks awesome but chips to eazy. Keep in mind Its a garden tractor not a Caddilac Put things in prospective or you'll be to scared to use it after. I like to do a nice job on mine but I also like to use the after.If the lasted 40 plus years so far the'll last us another 40 Just my opinion good luck. Just don't paint it orange if it's suppost to be yellow

[AllisPhreak 0]

Thanks, Morris Yea, I knew that airless sprayers sputter like you said, but figured there was a different viscosity level for automotive paint that would limit that to some degree. LOL...besides, I would like to give my new 60-gallon air compressor a go ! :D Yep, there is a certain amount of pitting, not on the frame, but on the hood and seat pan/fenders. I believe I am going to give the electrolytic rust removal a shot as described here : http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=77294 (I just knew those 55-gal plastic drums I got from a job site would come in handy for more than just recycle bins ! :Q ) Then I will smooth the surface with Bondo as you suggested. I wish a member with far more experience than I would do a 'tech-tip' article on the proper methods of painting, tho. I have thousands of questions in pursuit of the best finish I can get. How many primer coats ? How many finish coats ? Does one wet-sand between coats ? Hardener, or no ? Clear-coat, or no ? Only an auto-body repairman knows for sure ! yell

[AllisPhreak 0]

Paul- That sounds more than reasonable...but then again, they clear coat in automotive applications, and it does not chip. What are we missing here ?

[FastPaul 0]

quote:

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Originally posted by AllisPhreak
Paul- That sounds more than reasonable...but then again, they clear coat in automotive applications, and it does not chip. What are we missing here ?

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A car is a lot different then a tractor .Try tighting a hood bolt on top of clear coat It gets to hard and will break (Chip) Ive done both.No question C/C looks mint but like I said It's a tractor Plus your adding one more step to the paint job , Are you going to use it after or park it and look at it .I know you whant it to look good but keep in mind what will you do when you do chip or sratch it .How do you touch up C/C ?? Look at Pg. show & Tell my B-12 Restoration is there, Might help you Look at Pg. 7 also Thats the LL reastoration

[AllisPhreak 0]

Paul - Yes, I am seeking an attractive paint job, but far more than that, I am seeking durability. See, the thing is, I have never had much success in painting metal, and I was hoping to get some pointers from those who know better than I. Case in point : Last year, I repainted my tiller frame, engine block, and gas tank. I painted it with off-the-shelf Rustoleum paint & primer. However, with the very first fill-up of gasoline, I spilled a small amount over the repainted gas tank. INSTANT blister, bubble, and peel. The original paint job on the tiller did not do that. That's what I am seeking.....just to reproduce the original durability, and I was hoping clear-coat might help provide that.

[UCD 14]

There are posts in the commonly asked questions and Tech tip forums that are available to paying members on this subject There are as many correct procedures as there are paint systems and painters. in Spray cans Lacquer is a harder paint than acrylic enamel and acrylic enamel is harder than enamel. if you by cheap paint that is what you get. There are 4 types of spray can paint, Enamel, Acrylic Enamel, Lacquer and Acrylic Lacquer. Enamel paint is soft and never really completely dries and is not gas resistant. It is very hard to color sand and buff. Acrylic enamel is harder more resistant to gas and can be color sanded and buffed. Lacquers are dull and have to be sanded and rubbed out but are gas resistant. Acrylic Lacquer is the hardest spray can paint dries to a gloss and can be color sanded and buffed and gas resistant. If you are going to clear coat buy the same type of clear as the paint you used. Always use same type of primer as paint. If you want to use Automotive paint Go to a parts store that mixes and sells automotive paint. Talk to the person that mixes the paint and find out about the different systems available and the procedures and components used in that system. Do on line searches for correct body prep and painting procedures.

[AllisPhreak 0]

Maynard - Ahhhhh, that's why my new paint job on my tiller blistered so easily ! You have probably saved me a whole lot of work, as I was about to purchase the Rustoleum product (even though I do not care for it). I woul dhave been just repeating my mistake, as the Rustoleum is an Enamel. Now, I will just seek an Acrylic Lacquer - unless there is a more durable product that can be used for cup spraying ?

[firefoxz1 4]

Adam: I would not paint it the orange but would paint it the closest yellow you can find. The orange they sell would not be the right orange for that time period anyway, I believe, that is for the farm and machinery Allis's. Karl: Most of what you had in your post is all personal preference stuff so you do what you think. I put on primer and sand between coats till I get a nice smooth covering finish 1-20 coats???. Paint I do according to temperature/humidity. sometimes I can get the coats heavier and just apply two and sometimes I do three or four till I get the thickness I like. Like what was said before there is no set way.

[RenegadeJ 0]

In my area there is an automotive paint supply company. I looked through their paint catalogs and found old Allis Chalmers colors. Had them mix in in poly eurothane enamel. No clear coat needed with this type of paint. Here are pics of two projects after painting.
[img]/club2/attach/RenegadeJ/IMAG0029.JPG[/img]

[MDB 134]

I used Martin Senour Cross/Fire acrylic enamel Color code 4333 Allis Chalmers Yellow Color code 1528 Wimbledon White (for the wheels) CR 233 medium reducer CH 254 hardener

[AllisPhreak 0]

LOL....I don't know where people got the idea my tractor was yellow :

This is going to look SOOOOOO good when I get it redone by the end of the summer. But it's truly a muddy mess here now

[firefoxz1 4]

Karl: If your talking about my post I had the names switched, my bad but fixed. Also you should have started another topic as Adam started this asking about yellow for his A/C and that is why people are responding with yellow.