always something....gas tank blues

[perry 1]

after getting the engine running and tuned up. i went to the gas tank. the original tank had a bad looking patch job on it so i threw it in the scrap pile last year. i got a hold of this allis tank last summer and it did'nt look to bad. all winter i spayed it with PB blaster and then carb cleaner. i dug it back out today and it looked to clean up pretty good. so after my finale carb spay and pee gravel shake i started to rinse it out with the hose. i had water comming out of 4 different holes:O:(. just then the wife walked around the corner and said "nice gas tank" in a calm but smart a-s voice:(!. i blew that off and i went and dug out the original tank. scraped off the old patch, and it's not as bad as the allis tank. only has a few small leaks in a rust pitted area. i was thinking about JB weld to fix them both. what do you'all think?.
[img]http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/march07sim101008.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/perry71/march07sim101006.jpg[/img]

[Willy 2]

I've been using a tank that is mostly J.B. weld on the bottem don't look real pretty but it's held fuel of the last two years, no leaks yet. just make sure you clean it good and get the oil off it. Good luck.

[MarksA-C 93]

I would look on E-bay or around for a better one first. Then if you still have nothing, go with the JB weld.

[MDB 134]

I have had very good luck taking my gas tanks to the local radiator shop. They thoroughly clean the tanks, take them apart if necessary, patch the bad spots, re-soder the seams and then coat the inside of the tank with a sealer. All for about $40 per tank.

[Roy 0]

"They thoroughly clean the tanks, take them apart if necessary, patch the bad spots, re-soder the seams and then coat the inside of the tank with a sealer. All for about $40 per tank." My local radiator shop does the same as MDB's for $40 also. To save money I recently soldered two tanks myself. The one on my B-1 works fine. Haven't used the other one yet.

[Tom_Byrne 0]

MY TWO CENTS:

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I would look on E-bay or around for a better one first.

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The trouble with looking around for used tanks(especially these 1960's models) is you generally get the same problem you already have, if not immediately that down the road. I went thru three used tanks on an old Broadmoor before I patched up the original- it's still on the tractor and no leaks for three years.

[UCD 14]

Those tanks can both be reparied by soldering. I would use liquid acid flux and 50/50 solid bar solder. Acid core 50/50 - 60/40 roll solder would work good also. If you don't like to use solder you can get an epoxy gas tank repair kit at Napa for $8.00 - $10.00. There is enough to repair both tanks. They come with emery paper to clean the repair area bee's wax to plug smaller hole so you can repair on the vehicle with gas in tank. Fiber glass cloth to repair larger holes. It will take about 20 min to repair those tanks and then can be painted and installed.

[perry 1]

thanks for the replys guys. i think i have used that tank repair stuff back when i worked in a shop USD is talking about. ill see what i come up with.

[stevenj 4]

Solder them up. It takes a little practice to bridge the holes but can be done. What do you have to loose. I was able to re-solder the neck onto the tank on my B210 and it hasn't leaked since. If I remember right I had some fairly large gaps to bridge. I've used a propane torch with an adjustable flame (not one of the electronic start, wide open models) and dialed in the flame to get the right amount of heat to just melt the solder so you can pull the heat away and have it solidify. Too hot and the solder just runs. There shouldn't be any fumes left in the tank after all this time and rinsing that you've done. I also remember some old guys :) talking about soldering a penny over the hole to bridge the gap and stop the leak.