Converting ignition, need a little help.

[Morris 0]

All, Got my engine mounted on the AC B-1 and ran a test fire of it today, got no love. Found it is not getting any spark. Starter/gennie seems to work fine and motor seems to have good compression. Now, I have also been working on a 23-D with the same problem on a Toro mower. I know this has been addressed (I think) but can someone point me in the right direction on this: how do I convert the Briggs ignition to an automotive coil (like a VW Beetle coil) with the coil being energized by the battery? I looked all over the tech section but couldn't find a posting specific to this. Considering the VW type coil is 12 bucks and the Briggs is about 90, any help you can give will be appreciated! Thanks...

[UCD 14]

Commonly Asked Questions Battery Ignition System Wiring Diagram http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=43560 You will need a ballist resister or a coil with an internal ballist resister.

[Morris 0]

Excellent, Maynard! Just what I was looking for. Both of these, the AC and the Toro, are majorly labor-intensive once you get into having to replace the coil, etc. So while I have everything out this seems like an easy approach. Oh, and I dug out two Delco-Remy S/G's in the garage and found both to spin ok hooked to my battery, so I'm halfway there... Thank you!

[Kent 436]

This info might be helpful also.. http://www.simpletractors.com/do_it/magneto_to_coil.htm

[Morris 0]

Very helpful Kent, since that is the very model I'm working on, the AC version of it, anyway. Should be pretty easy to fix.

[HubbardRA 19]

Morris, The easiest way to do it is to get an internally ballasted coil from a Kohler. This is what I have on my B/S 243431 10Hp and have been running for the past 20 years. Mount the coil. Hook the negative side to the points screw. Leave the condenser hooked up as it is with the magneto system. No need to change that. If needed, the condenser can be mounted elsewhere, as long as it is connected into the line between the points and the negative side of the coil and the condenser body is mounted to ground. On the Kohlers, the condenser is usually mounted with and electrically connected at the coil. Next you need to supply power to the positive side of the coil from the battery. The engine should fire right up. The biggest problem is the wiring of an ignition switch that will provide power to the coil when the switch is in the start position. Normally the switches that are designed for a magneto ignition do not have a contact on them that will provide power to the ignition with the key in the run position, and also in the start position. Follow the diagrams provided above and you should be able to get around this problem. If you have problems, then PM me. There are several ways to get around the ignition switch problems. I currently have two tractors running battery-coil type ignitions.