Continued Landlord troubles

[GWGAllisfan 159]

I continue to have an awful time trying to get this 23D to run properly. See history here: http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=78961 Now that I have plenty of spark, thanks to the new coil and condenser, I decided to se if changing the carb to a smaller one would take away the problem I was having with it running for a 15-20 minutes, then stalling when accelerated, and failing to restart. When it did this fuel would pour out of the carb base. I was working on the theory that the large four bolt carb was too big for good consistent airflow. Last night I carefully put a rebuild kit in the 3 bolt carb, assembled it, changed the manifold to one that fit and tried it. The engine did not start, and when I stopped cranking fuel POURED out of the bottom of the carb base. The plug was wet. Dried the plug, leaned the mixture screws, same result. Took carb back apart, made sure nozzle was tight in it, tried again, same result. Re-examined float level and it seemed to be level like it should be. With my hand over the open end of the manifold, there is very good manifold vaccum Plug fires in air. At 10:00 pm I was just short of the point of taking a sledge hammer to it. (Yes I know that won’t fix it but the idea was entertained) so I gave up for the night. I was thinking maybe lowering float level a little might help, and maybe another new plug, just in case it’s so badly fouled it can’t fire. Will try those tonight. What have I missed? It’s two weeks to spring fling and I’ve been fighting this motor for a month, with no luck. Right now all I have to show for all the work on this tractor is a prettily painted, quite heavy expensive paperweight.

[HubbardRA 19]

With the carb attached to the engine, remove the fuel bowl. Turn on the fuel. It should be pouring out the inlet. Lightly push the float upward, just lift it, do not put any significant force on it. Fuel flow should stop. If fuel stops flowing, that means the needle is working properly. Next, turn off fuel and remove the float. Hold the float up to your ear and shake it. A sloshing sound means that the float is leaking and taking on fuel which makes it sink. When my oldest son got his 64 Landlord, his carb drove me crazy. I tried two floats, and both of them leaked. Biggest problem was that they were empty and dried out from being on the shelf when I put them on, so they would work for a while till they took on enough gas to sink. I hate to say it, but I forgot to go back and check the float with the shake test after running the engine. What is the odds they were both going to leak? Sometimes the simplest things will bite you. Always go back and double or triple check the parts. Good Luck. You could always bring it to SF and we could use it as a group project. Didn't you also have one of those last year? :D

[GWGAllisfan 159]

I'll try those ideas. Yes I did have group project last year. One that ran on great on Saturday and wouldn't run at all on on Sunday. Ended up pushed on the trailer to go home. Turned out to be ignition related.

[johnmonkey 4]

I remember pushing it on the trailer, I left my camera on a tractor and drove off. I didn't realize the camera was missing until I got 60 miles down the road. Lucky for me Rod figured out what was happening and retrieved my camera!!!Thanks again Rod!!. JH

[HubbardRA 19]

Randy, Just to let you know, I was just kidding you about the group project. You know that we all love those and the fact that we can help someone else. By the way, I was skating on such thin ice with my tractor, that I carried a set of jumper cables with me when we drove in the parade. My problem was apparently some type of fuel problem, because it would run fine a while then start sputtering and require that I richen the main jet. Guess what? I have not had that problem at all since SF. I guess driving it in the parade cured it.

[gregc 3]

Use the Briggs spark TESTER - 19368 to see if the plug fires when installed. Easy way to tell if a plug is good or bad.

[GWGAllisfan 159]

I will try all those suggestions. I don't have the spark tester though. I took no offense at the group project mention. I was glad to se that many people willing to look at a problem one of the others had. I'm just so disgusted by fighting this thing and getting nowhere.

[firefoxz1 4]

Rod, That usually happens when the a jet or small passage has a slight blockage. So, yes driving it in the parade may have just cured it, the "clot" dissolved or moved on. Randy the fuel that flows back into the carb when shutting off, or after cranking is just what it pulled up into the intake to run on, unless it continues to drip alot I wouldn't worry to much about it, unless it seems excessive. Did you double check your valve clearance? Also maybe try leaning the idle mixture not the main.

[HubbardRA 19]

Thom, Normally I would agree with you, but it happened with two different carbs one being 4 bolt and the other being 3 bolt. Also the engine would run fine for 15 to 20 minutes mowing grass before it would start sputtering and require readjustment of the carb. I think it may have been something between the end of a valve and the cam follower, that eventually worked out. It acted like an exhaust valve with little or no clearance. I was planning to check the valve clearances, but the problem went away before I got the time to check the valves. Not absolutely sure what it was, but it wasn't the carb.

[Simplicity314 0]

I had that problem and it turned out that the main needle jet was drifting. Next time it acts up open the needle a bit and see if it evens out. I put in a new spring and it's been fine ever since. Another one of theose simple things that'll drive you nuts. Worth a look.

[Morris 0]

Randy, your problems seem to be mirroring mine. Mine is doing the exact same thing, as soon as it turns off, fuel runs out the base of the carb, but unlike yours, not having any trouble with acceleration or idling. No wet plug, just leaking when it stops. My repair guy believed on first glance it was the main jet, as Jim suggested. But if you're getting a wet plug, I'd check float again. As Rod suggested, sometimes you can get bad parts...I had 72 Buick Skylark that started running rough. Replaced plugs, and for good measure, a new coil. Still rough. Went through something like $400 worth of stuff only to find out one of the new plugs AND the new coil were bad, purchased both at the same time. What are the odds of that? Sometimes all you can do is just go through it piece by piece again until you find it. (BTW, I'm not fixing mine yet, since it runs good, just shutting off fuel when I turn it off before it leaks all over everything.)

[B.Ikard 2]

quote:

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Originally posted by GWGAllisfan
I will try all those suggestions. I don't have the spark tester though. I took no offense at the group project mention. I was glad to se that many people willing to look at a problem one of the others had. I'm just so disgusted by fighting this thing and getting nowhere.

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Randy, The next day I have free looks like the 28th. If you can't get the problem solved by then trailer it over and we can put our heads together. Sometimes you just need to drop back and regroup- Brent

[GWGAllisfan 159]

Thanks everyone. By the way last night i realized the 3 bolt carb was the wrong one for this engine, since the governor linkage worked backwards. Strange that it's the one that came with this tractor when i bought it! I put the 4-bolt back on and experimentally tried to start it, even before the fuel line was hooked up, and it ran until the bowl was empty, around a minute or so. Hooked up fuel line and it wouldn't restart. It has fuel, it has fire, it has compression. It should run But it doesn'tngr2ngr2

[andrewk 0]

vapor lock?

[MPH 12]

Might try putting a litle presure in the gas tank, by blowing in it and hold the presure as long as you can, just don't inhale fumes gaspping for your breath when you finish.. If my LL sits for 2-3 weeks it won't run after startup til I do that, sometimes it takes a couple times before it runs, then will burn a tank of gas without missing a beat. Having a full tank helps Sometime.

[DMedal 1]

"runs ok with the fuel line disconnected (until the bowl is empty), but quits when you hook up the gas tank..." that's what you are saying, right? So it DOES run (fuel+spark+compression), it just doesn't work w/ fuel line attached. Sounds VERY much like you're getting too much fuel. Probably float/valve problems. In fact I can't think of anything else that would account for the symptom "runs fine til I hook up the fuel line". I think you're VERY close to the finish of this chase. Follow the directions the guys gave you for diagnosing float and needle valve. It is something simple. -Don

[MrSteele 495]

Have you cleaned the tank? My Landlord has a bit of trash in the tank, and I have to blow through the gas line from the carb into the tank to clean it out on occasion. Runs fine after blowing back through the line. I guess I should clean the tank again, but, it is easier to blow it out than to make the proper repairs.