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Shakin' Roller '1st Modifacation'


MPH

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Man oh man, does this thing shake. Shakes so hard the engine floods out and the tractor shakes under me. Didn't expect quite so much outta it. here's some pictures of the making of it. Rescue of the vibrator off the ditchwitch. I'd guess it weighs close to 100lbs.


Spring hasn't made it to this part of the yard yet.


From under there I robbed this Tech engine off a sears tiller. Took some carb cleanup but it fired right up after I got that resolved and runs good yet.


Had the vibrator set on it yesterday, this morning I ground the welds off the hitch I put on it a couple years ago and leveled it up better. Not sure what I was thinking when I first put it on that way, maybe wt transfer to the tractor for traction.


Here's mounted up and ready to go. Put a piece of ole mud flap off the semi van under the tube steel hoping it would help with vibration going to the engine. Not near enough help.



Close-up of the clutch off the tiller that I couldn't seem to set up so it would over center, think the belt is too short. Don't matter now as I have to remount the engine somehow to give it a smoother ride.


The indentation in the driveway is the amount it'll settle in in the time it takes to get on the tractor after engauging the clutch. The rock to the right was sticking up about 3/4', I paused on it for maybe 15 sec. to hammer it down flush^


Cut the motor mount irons off last night even with the rear end of the plate, cut two old pickup shocks apart and cut off a piece of the rod end, drilled two 5/8' holes down through the plate, bored out two 5/8' nuts to weld to the shock rods, then welded them to the plate. Mounted the engine plate back on with two 1/2' bolts through the shock mounting holes creating a rubber mounted hinge. Forgot about pictures in process but here's what I ended up with.


little better shot of the shock end


Gained enough for the engine to keep running, still shakes it pretty bad, enough the cheapo gas line clip/clamp came off after 3 single passes on the top end of the driveway.


Didn't have it real torn up on that part but there was a fair amount of loose 1 1/2' rock out there from grading it. Getting happy with it. Gonna drill and tap the drum and fill it with water hoping to take out some of the jump, believe I have plenty of vibration action.
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Marty, That's a really nice implement to have. :) Maybe rubber mounts on the bottom of the engine legs would help the engine some as well as some kind of spring mechanism or shock mechanism on the hitch itself to reduce vibration?
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Marty, Interesting machine. The mass of the roller and vibrator is so much greater than the mass of the engine it will tough to isolate the engine. Almost like the engine needs to be floating on liquid with a hydraulic drive to the vibrator. Will have do some thinking and see if a good method of isolation comes to mind. Maybe one of the other Club brains will come up with a good idea. Keep us posted.
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i would probably just set it up to run off a DC motor, would be great for controling how much "shake" you want out of it scott
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Marty Move your pivot point toward the back on the bottom lever of your clutch. It looks like you all ready have a hole there. You will have to mount the engine support frame and engine on some rubber isolation mounts like those the seats are mounted on only heavier. If the mounting bolts go all the way though the rubber it will transmit the vibrations. Something like a rubber Chev engine mount might work. Or some of these 4 on the frame 4 on the engine. [img]http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/113/gfx/small/9376kp3s.gif[/img] I sent you the linked page by email http://www.mcmaster.com Search Vibration Damping Mounts page 1314, 1315, 1317, 1318, 1319
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Gonna go shopping today for some spring motor mounts like I've seen on Hi Vac Equipment. If I can't find anything maybe buy some auto motor mounts. Planned on using old 318 front motor mounts but couldn't find any in my yard. Didn't want to buy anything til I knew if it would shake as I was clueless as to weather the vibrator even worked. Also gonna try to hinge the motor on the ends off a set of old shocks on the front and tension the belt with a spring pulling down on the rear. Most of the drieway is prime break-up soft, want this thing working.
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Marty, If all else fails try getting in touch with this company, [url]http://www.avproductsinc.com/?gclid=CJ_NgdjM2osCFR1bgAodzhquWQ[/url] It looks like they have about any type of vibration isolator you would need and they don't have a minimum order on anything in stock. I glanced through the genset mounts and they have a small engine mount that may do it. Jack
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Thanks for the links Maynard and Jack. Now that I know it will work quit well I don't mind spending a few bucks on it. Heck, can save that back in mower blade where the grass has spread into basic rocky dirt.
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How about mounting the engine on the tow bar close to the tractor with the rubber mounts and add a jackshaft with a longer belt to it then from the shaft to the vibrator.
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Your idea is making more sence the longer I think about it Larry. I mounted it on the rear for easy access to the engine. Mounting it on the hitch will reduce the leverage of the bouncing and shaking by 3 feet. That should make a HUGE difference. You thinking the jack shaft will help reduce transmitted vibration also or just to keep the belt shorter? Maybe I won't be cutting grass tomorrow, compaction season is getting close to over on most of my driveway for this year. This is why I love this site, a great pool of ideas and thinking minds. Thanks.
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Marty, Perhaps you could mount a generator to the tractor and have it run off the pto... Then run an electrical cable from the generator to an electric motor mounted on the shaker? (And belt to the shaker) Or, you could build a small trailer that follows the shaker, mount the engine on the trailer as well as a generator, and run power cable from that to an electric motor on the shaker? This is kinda wild, but it might work... What if you mounted the engine directly above the shaker, on a plate... And air shocks going from the plate to the "roof" of the roller?
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Marty, Here's another wild suggestion, this is very kooky, but it might work. LOL... You could weld an arm going from the roller's hitch going up and above the shaker... And hang the engine above the shaker motor. Use shocks or springs or rubber mounts to help reduce vibration. I think that personally, mounting something on the roller's hitch would be the key, or towing the engine on a separate trailer. Since that's where it would vibrate the least. But, it might end up that an electric motor might be your best bet?
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My vision of mounting the motor on the hitch is on a pedistal, but that might shake too much. Sittting down n the hitch would be an acess problem, i think. DC motor sounds interestiing but I don't know much about size, duty cycle or where to find cheap. Starter motors are only short time run, correct? Could mount an alternator on the tractor fairly easy. Dang, maybe I'll just go get a yard of gravel dumped on the dodge and drive it around like I've always done in the past, sure was simple:)
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Marty, Hmm, I was thinking more of AC motors. I don't know how much power the Allis/Simplicity generator generates, but it's enough for at least a 120 Volt electronic item. With that logic, if the electric motor is a 120v motor that can match the RPM and strength of your gas motor, that could work. Sure is simpler to just put it on the back of your truck, but that wouldn't be much fun, right? 8):o)
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'Sure is simpler to just put it on the back of your truck, but that wouldn't be much fun, right?' All too true Erick, but I'm getting kinda outta time to give this project for this spring, when the seasons change up here, ya got a couple days to catch it right or it's gone for a year.
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ok, if you have the parts in your junk pile, a lighter weight and perhaps simpler system than a generator/motor would be a hydraulic pump and motor. This is how commercial stuff like this is built. I'd be concerned an electric motor would shake itself apart inside in time. And seeing the collection of goodies you come up with you might just have the stuff to do this. Neat tool. -Don
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Yet another great idea Don. If you look at the first picture you can see the pump, the holding tank carring the Ditch Witch decal and the motor is hiding under it to drive the wheels. Hmmm, been wantting to get it in outta the weather anyway.
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"Almost like the engine needs to be floating on liquid with a hydraulic drive to the vibrator." "a lighter weight and perhaps simpler system than a generator/motor would be a hydraulic pump and motor." Think I saw this one coming. :)
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Well, things ain' sounding too good after talking with the ditch witch boys in anchorage today. Reason you can't find this model VP 12 even in junk yards is because the shakers go out, Co. that made them is long gone and it's about 2 grand to have a new shaft made for one, lots of machine work i was told. Also, the guys didn't think a 16hp would pull the 2 stage hydro pump with an output of 12.2gpm in second stage 6.7 gpm in first stage. My deep understanding of hydralic specs makes me say okkkkkkkk. Anyways, with the knowledge the shaker is not repairable, think I'll be keeping this as a low dollar spent project. sounds like I have a pretty good pump and the hydro drive motor is rated at 16.5hp. They printed me off the spec sheet8D
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