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ibelee

B-112 lift arm

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ibelee
Started Plowing the Garden today and noticed the following things: 1. When I drop the lift arm to the lowest notch the the plow barely touches the ground. If I drop the lift arm past the lowest notch to the point where the arm is floating it hits my leg. At one point I finaly put my leg over top of the lift arm. Seemed a little dangerous. By the way, I'm using Johnmonkey's Brinley plow that he let me borrow. Am I doing something wrong? Does the bar that goes to the sleeve hitch need to be adjusted? 2. I definately have to get AG Tires and fill them with Winsheild Wiper Fluid as was mentioned on one of the posts. 3. About 50% of the time when I try to turn hard right the steering locks up and will not turn to the right. Is this a steering gear problem? Thanks for your help.

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MPH
As for your steering problem, first thing I'd check is the u joint just above the steering gear where it couples to the steering wheel shaft. If one of the bolts falls out you can get the effect of what you say you have going on. As to the plow, how about some pictures of how it's mounted, sounds like a hitch problem too me.

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MPH
Looks like your lift rod is about as far long as you care to make it. I'd try changing the rear bolt in the sleeve hitch on the plow to the lower hole, that should drop the plow quite a bit.

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Ketchamized
Lee, I agree with Marty. Also, you could adjust that bolt with the "U" mount to enable it to extend about 1/4" more, and move it down to that 2nd bolt as Marty suggested. Both together should give you around 2"-3" deeper dig.

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ibelee
Will try it in the morning. Am I correct then, that when I drop the lift arm to it's lowest notch, that should give me the proper depth? Dropping it to the position where it hits my leg (or past that point) doesn't seem right.

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johnmonkey
Hello, I loand Lee my plow, he brought his tractor to my house and I rigged him up the set-up that you see. His lift has a steel rod, and my brinley hitch has the steel clevis. Is that a a dangerous set-up? I was thinking that with a cable lift you need the steel clevis, and the solid lift rod, you need a chain. In other words you need a place in the system that gives (chain or cable)so the plow will not up and grab something and buck you off the tractor. jh

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ibelee
Hey John, Thanks again for loaning me the plow. The steel rod to the lift never seemed to be an issue. I hit roots and tough sod and the tractor just started spinning wheels. If I had AG tires properly weighted the tractor would have done better. Even when I hit roots or sod the lift arm would just raise my leg. I do believe that an adjustment can be made to the plow hitch as was mentioned. I don't think the hard link between the hitch and the tractor is a factor of safety. It could, possibly, be adjusted though for better performance. This is your plow, on loan to me. So, with your permission I'd like to make the adjustments and try it again in the morning. Also noticed that the "landslide" was not set horizontal to the ground when buried. Would like to adjust that also.

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UCD
Another thing you have an old style lift arm with a new style sleeve hitch. The lift arm for the newer style sleeve hitch had a lower point for the rod between the sleeve hitch and lift arm. The old style lift arm used a lift rod inserted into the lift arm with a chain between it and the plow. Problem Old Vs new New Vs old.

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MPH
John gave me an idea along with Maynards info. If you replace the lift rod from the rear lift down to the sleeve hitch with a piece of 1/4' chain with a small clevis on both ends you could adjust the leangth to what you need. Park your left rear tire on a block of wood the depth you desire to plow and set the chain to be snug when the lift lever is in the lowered position.

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ka9bxg
I know what is wrong with your steering. When you have the lift arm all the way down it is catching the steering on the inside.Lift the lift arm a little and it will work fine. Same thing happened to me a few weeks ago. Took a while to figure that one out. Bob

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