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BroadmoorMan

engine questions

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BroadmoorMan
Hey everybody. I took out my engine today too try and figure out why its been leaking oil lately. Its obvious too see where its coming from because of the oil under the bolt. Also when I tipped the engine over a little bit it started to come out from where that bolt is. My first question is, is there a certain tightness that this bolt has to be so it won't leak again?




My next question is about the cylinder head. I took a look at it for the first time and there's some build up on it. How should I go about taking this stuff off? Can I just take a brush to it?






Thanks for any information.

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Al
Hi, Those sump gaskets were noted for leaking on the 19 and 25 cu in engines. On the 28 cu in engines Brs added another bolt to correct the problem. Then when they moved them up to 14 hp, they had a number of problems for a while with the sump bolts coming loose and having the dowell pins egg out the holes. We short blocked a number of engines for this problem. On your 19 cu in engine, I would take the sump off, clean the gasket surfaces and put a new gasket on. I believe the latest ones have a bead of silicone on them to make them seal better. I would put some locktite threadlocker on the threads and torque them the the max # called out. Do not put any sealer on these new type sump gaskets. As for the piston, get it to TDC and use a "putty knife" or scraper and scrape it clean. Then blow at an angle around the outside of the piston to lift any loose carbon from above the rings. On the head, I would scrape it out with a dull screwdriver and then I would spray it with some carb cleaner and wipe it out. Wal Mart has spray carb cleaner for about 1.40 a can. Works good on carbon and even fouled plugs and it is super cheap. Do not scrape on the gasket surface. You can spray and wipe the top of the piston also. We usually scrape the heads out, spray them with carb cleaner to remove the oil and then bead blast them in a blast cabinet using glass beads. Be sure to screw an old spark plug in to protect the threads while blasting. Then we scrub it with hot soap and water to get the abrasive out of the metal. Next we lap them on a flat plate with a sheet of sandpaper. With each stroke, turn the head 1/4 turn, this keeps everything flat. Lap until the whole gasket surface shows contact. If you bead or sand blast, you can blow all you want and the abrasive will stay on and in the metal. Only hot soap and waater will remove it. The same is true with hone stone residue in cylinders. Not cleaning cyls with hot soap and water will cause extremely rapid wear to rings and cylinders. Al Eden

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PatRarick
That's exactly the bolt I was speaking of. I don't know of any torque specs for those bolts. If it's not loose, I'd replace the sump (oil pan) gasket and you should be good to go. When I clean carbon like that, I gently scrape off as much as I can with a putty knife. Then spray it with carb cleaner to soften the remainder and scrub it with a brass wire brush. Usually comes as clean as new without any scratching.

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