Clocking Blades

[Imacarguytoo]

I have a 42in deck with 3 blades on it. There is not a specific mounting point on the blades. No tangs on the blade for it to fit into the rotater. So how do i clock the blades or mount them.

[PhanDad]

On the Simplicity decks there isn't any required "clock" position to prevent the blades from hitting one another as there are on other tractors. Except for the old FTD decks, the blades are just mounted with a center bolt. The old decks used a rectangular shaped arbor mounting plate with two bolts, but the blades aren't "clocked" either. If the correct length blades are installed, the rotation "circles" don't overlap. A a three blade deck, the center "circle" is set forward of the outer circles to provide cutting overlap. This is why sometimes when turning very sharply with marginal length blades, some grass is uncut. Two blade Simplicity decks have the arbors set at an angle to the tractor centerline to provide cutting overlap. The blade "circles" don't overlap on this style deck either. Same sharp turning issue can also apply.

[Imacarguytoo]

Yeah they done overlap one another. I just didnt know if they had to be clocked or timed to keep balance. Thanks for the info.

[PatRarick]

quote:

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Originally posted by PhanDad
On the Simplicity decks there isn't any required "clock" position to prevent the blades from hitting one another as there are on other tractors. Except for the old FTD decks, the blades are just mounted with a center bolt. The old decks used a rectangular shaped arbor mounting plate with two bolts, but the blades aren't "clocked" either. If the correct length blades are installed, the rotation "circles" don't overlap. A a three blade deck, the center "circle" is set forward of the outer circles to provide cutting overlap. This is why sometimes when turning very sharply with marginal length blades, some grass is uncut. Two blade Simplicity decks have the arbors set at an angle to the tractor centerline to provide cutting overlap. The blade "circles" don't overlap on this style deck either. Same sharp turning issue can also apply.

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All two blade systems that are not "timed" or "clocked" have an overlap. One blade is always slightly ahead of the other to provide this overlap. Depending on how it's set up, when you turn one direction, the overlap is decreased according to the angle of your turn. If you turn sharp enough, you'll leave a skip even with new blades. On the other hand, when you turn the opposite direction, the overlap increases and no strip is left. In that case, blades can be so worn that they will leave a strip on straight going, but leave no strip on the turn. The only exception I know of where non-timed blades do not overlap is on a certain MTD deck. I believe it's a 44" It uses two 22" blades directly across from each other. In the front of the deck is a small 6" blade to cut the center strip ahead of the two larger blades.

[firefoxz1]

On any deck that has to be timed the belt between the blades will be a cogged belt (a belt with teeth that fit a toothed pulley) like a timing belt on a car. These decks are a rare exeption to most on the market. No need to try to balance out the deck as a whole, each blade should be indivually balanced like a car tire.

[Imacarguytoo]

Ok thanks for all the help.

[Roy]

"On any deck that has to be timed the belt between the blades will be a cogged belt (a belt with teeth that fit a toothed pulley) like a timing belt on a car. These decks are a rare exeption to most on the market." As I recall the deck on my new Sovereign has a timing belt (cogged). Was dismayed when I discovered this since a cog belt doesn't allow for "no damage" slippage when the blade hits something unless the Belleville washers holding the blades on let the blade slip upon impact. Still wonder why Simplicity went to a timing belt. Don't think the blades have to be clocked despite the belt type.