rear lift - update: resolved

[DMedal 1]

referring to the 1" round bar that makes the top of the rear three point hitch. On my machine fully lifted is only slightly above horizontal. Is that typical? I thought they stuck up quite a bit, from looking at pictures here of rear counterweights for snowblowing, for example. There is a clevis adjustment where the lift rod meets the rock shaft, but I think I've got it fully moved in the right direction. -Don

[HubbardRA 19]

The rear lift that was on my 61 Wards would lift up to around 45 degrees. The one on my 716H uses a homemade cable so I can't judge from that one.

[MPH 12]

Just went and looked at 4 of mine in the shop, they all go to about a 45 degree angle in full up lift position. Maybe someone put the wrong rod on your tractor.

[DMedal 1]

I guess I'll dig into it and see if I can figure out how to shorten the rod. Anybody else had a tractor w/ this problem? one of the nicest things with this site is nearly every problem someone has had, and fixed. I'll be out cultivating with it tonight (Hooray, spring has come to the North) but to run the tiller I'm going to need to figure out the lift problem. thanks to all- Don

[PeppyDan 3]

Is your tractor a three speed without a variable. I don't know the foot draggers very well but I do know the variable speed adds length to the rear end assy. It is possible that you have a lift rod for a variable if your tractor has just a three speed. Someone else here can surly give you more info on this than what I can. Dan

[BLT 715]

I have two different lift rods. One from a B-10 which about 34" long and from a 3112H that is roughly 3" longer. 3112 and B110 had same wheel base, I think, which would have 37 in rod.

[DMedal 1]

thanks guys. I'm thinking it won't be hard to take 3" off the back end, heat it up and bend it back into submission. This is why I need a half-dozen donor tractors.:D -Don

[DMedal 1]

Fixed it. Daughter and I pulled the rod, made a template of the bends, sawed off the 3" BLT gave me, heated it up to red-hot and beat and bent it into submission. You'd have to look really close to see it isn't stock. Thanks to all. I hope I don't need it long again in the future, that wouldn't be quite as easy.

[BLT 715]

That rod needs no bends. Has to be straight as an arrow. You need to float your application in the " down position" as the rod will bend pretty easy when some obstacle try to force an up stroke.

[DMedal 1]

Bob, I don't know about yours, but on my LL there's an offset at the end, I assume so the force is in line with the rod rather than offset? like this: (this is from memory, and definately not to scale)

[BLT 715]

Don mine is like that and the rest is straight after the offset. About two times a year I end up unscrewing the rod and hammering it straight because I keep on forgetting to float the tiller.