B-112 Choke Routing

[ibelee 0]

Anybody got a pic of how the choke adjustment wire hooks to the carburator and the routing of the wire after it leaves the engine compartment? Not sure if my 112 has the wrong choke wire or the wrong carburator, but I can't get it hooked up.

[bob1959 0]

there is a screw clamp right at the furthest point of the gas cover on the frame before it goes to the engine compartment and carb. There should be two clamp screws on the carb. The cable on the b-112 DOES NOT use them. The cable attaches to the upper side of the choke butterfly. Hope this helps.

[ibelee 0]

Maybe these pics will help to describe my question better.

[firefoxz1 1]

Yes, you have the wrong carb. That one uses no cable, it is hand operated by the lever that's it. That carb would be a economy aftermarket one.

[Roy 0]

If you want a cable operated choke you can make a bracket that bolts to the bottom of the air cleaner retaining stud and attach a cable clamp to the bracket. Might have to drill a hole in the end of the choke lever if there isn't one beneath the plastic cap/cover on the end of the lever.

[ibelee 0]

Thanks for the answer guys. Just one more reason I need to get a parts tractor from Matt at Spring Fling.

[PatRarick 0]

You have the medium Flo-Jet carb. Doesn't appear to be aftermarket, but it is for engines of 9hp and smaller. The correct carb is the large flow jet which has four screws holding the carburetor body together. Roy's suggestion for the choke will work, but you have the wrong choke shaft for your application. To drill a hole and use the long part of the lever, where the rubber is, you'd have to loop the cable and come straight up from the bottom. To use the current hole for choke (the little nub with the hole at the bottom of the choke lever), you'd have to loop the cable towards the front of the tractor and come in from the front. Otherwise your choke control would work backwards. Meaning in for choke and out for no choke. What might be a bigger problem is that it appears that you have the carb from an aluminum engine rather than from a cast iron engine. The difference is in the direction the throttle opens. On aluminum engines, the governer rod pushes up to throttle the engine down. On cast iron engines the governer rod pulls down to throttle the engine down. In your center photo it looks like the governer rod is pulled down (which should be idle position on a cast iron engine) but I see from the idle speed screw that the throttle is in wide open position. I can see that you have your throttle cable connected. Place the throttle control in wide open position. The idle speed screw should be in the vertical position shown in your photos. Rotate the throttle shaft counterclockwise to place the idle speed screw as close to horizontal as possible. You should notice a pretty fair amount of resistance to do so. If you have the wrong carb, and again with the throttle control in high speed position, the idle speed screw will be in a near horizontal position and you will feel a fair amount of resistance to rotate the throttle shaft clockwise to place the idle speed screw in the vertical position shown in your photos.

[ibelee 0]

Thanks for the info, Pat. I'll check it out.

[firefoxz1 1]

Here is a picture of the choke cable run on my B10 with a similar carb. It will give you a better understanding. I believe your choke cable would be backward though as pulling the cable would actually turn it off not on. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/kismar/B10/20070428_00001.jpg[/IMG]

[ibelee 0]

Yep, definately the wrong Carb. Thanks! That was exactly the pic I was looking for!