Hydraulic Lift problem *UPDATED AGAIN*

[KraigRG 0]

Ok, I went and jinxed myself in a post yesterday.:) I went out to rototill the garden this afternoon with my B-12. Everything went fine for a while then the hydraulic lift quit working.8Cngr2 I got to the end of a row and went to lift the rototiller and nothing. I hit the lever to go back down then pushed the lever back up and it started to lift then it dropped the tiller.XX( I checked the oil level and is ok. Just installed the lift earlier in spring so is pretty new 10w30. Any ideas? It's almost like there is a pressure relief valve that is popping open too soon but I'm not that familiar with the lift system. I knew I should have taken apart, cleaned and resealed before install. You know what they say about hindsight..... Kraig

[MPH 12]

One should always go through these old hrdro lift units and put new o rings in them at least, they are around 40 years old. Most likely your problem. I greatly increased output presure on one last winter by turning the relief valve smooth held in a piece of emery cloth so it could seal.

[John_RI 8]

Is it possible that the float stops could be in the wrong positions? John

[KraigRG 0]

I don't think it's the float stops, John. The more I look at the problem the more I think it's a bad seal or valve sticking. I say this as I've started taking my other hydro-lift unit apart that I was going to put in my '64 Landlord. Everything in it looks good except the seals are super stiff. I expect the same thing in the B-12. Going to reseal pump, valve, and ram/actuator and swap out with one in B-12. Then I'll take the B-12's apart and investigate further when I reseal it.

[DMedal 1]

be sure to scope out the relief valve, that seems to have slipped up a number of people. It wears, needs resurfacing. Before you dig into it check out MPH's thread on this over the winter.

[bob1959 0]

I rebuilt a pump this winter and put it on my b-112. Everything worked fine in the beginning but then it would not lift. I finally came to the conclusion that it was the synthetic oil causing the problem. My experience is do not use synthetic oil in the old hydro lifts.

[KraigRG 0]

I found the post from MPH along with the link to the post from "thedaddycat" which is what I'm using as a guide for the rebuild. Thought about using synthetic but didn't just good old Quaker State 10W30. Anybody else had problems with synthetic in hydro lifts?

[KraigRG 0]

Anybody out there know the kit # or where I can find a parts breakdown of the newer round tank hydrolift? I've been looking and can't find. I'm trying to find the part number of the pump shaft seal. The one that's there is pretty hard and looks as though may have been seeping a little. The older square tank system manual doesn't show a shaft seal.

[UCD 14]

Look for a post in tech tips from "Oldone" He posted all of the Kit part#'s and where he got them.

[MPH 12]

Seems Parker doesn't have any sort of repair kit or single parts for these units. At least I been unable to find a source to get the short shaft and gear from for one I have. Been told one can get a rebuilt for almost 200 dollars. If you can find a # on the shaft seal, a good bearing shop should be able to match the seal.

[KraigRG 0]

*UPDATE* After a lot of digging I found that the kit # of the newer Simplicity system is 990468. I also found if you go to www.Jackssmallengines.com and use the parts search they give you a complete breakdown of the hyrolift unit along with part #s. Surprisingly most of the parts are still available. I can't find the post anymore but someone was looking for the pin/rod for the valve. Jack's has it for less than $16.00. I even found the pump shaft seal even though it's kinda costly at around $14.50. Thanks to everyone for your help with this problem and others I've had. It's nice to know there is such a great group of people out there willing to help. Kraig

[Kent 436]

Here's the manual for that pump that Kraig provided: http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/upload/kent/D05_pump_manual.pdf

[callwill 1]

Check to be sure that your cylinder is working or not. On two occasions with my 3212H i've had the connecting clevis come off the end of the rod & then nothing will lift.

[KraigRG 0]

OK I kinda feel like an idiot for not catching this sooner :I. I finally got some time yesterday to work on the B-12 and when I pulled off the battery side panel what did I find? Let's just say Will was right in his suggestion to check the cylinder clevis. I fixed that problem but it still wouldn't lift the tiller. I went ahead and swapped out everything but the hoses from my other hydrolift I just rebuilt. Now it works like a charm :):Dsm01. In fact it works so well I started to lift the rear end of the tractor with the tiller attached before I realized it was happening :OOO. When I looked over the old cylinder I realized the piston seal was shot allowing the piston and shaft to rotate out of the clevis. I plan on using locktite on the clevis before I install it in my 64 Landlord ;). Now to just get some time to finish tilling the garden. 8D

[DMedal 1]

I don't suppose you have a picture? I'm having a hard time visualizing how a bad seal makes the clevis come loose. Probably obvious once you see it. -Don

[KraigRG 0]

I don't have a picture (or know if you can tell much by one) but will try to take one over weekend. The seal was bad/loose enough that it allowed the piston and shaft to spin due to vibration. On the cylinder I rebuilt the shaft will turn but it takes some effort (more than what vibration can do.) You can also take the cylinder w/ the shaft in the cylinder and turn it so the shaft points down and the shaft will fully extend with just gravity. In my mind it should require more force than that especiallly since the rebuilt one does. It may also have been a case of the clevis not being fully torqued on the shaft, I don't know. I also think the seal was a big part of the lifting problem. I think fluid under pressure was just blasting past the bad seal instead of pushing on the piston. I haven't had a chance to dig into the hydro unit itself yet to see what problems might be there.

[Rob-B 0]

I have been using synthetic Mobil 1 10W30 for 5 years now in my hydro lift & engines, Also syn. 90 weight in BGB and trannys with no issues at all. I also use Syn. grease where ever there is a grease fitting. Rob