4040 problems

[blackfarms1 0]

Hello, got the 4040 out to mow the other day and after operating fine for about 30 minutes it began to pull down and smoke. The only way to get it to stop is slow down or back the throttle down and then open back up. After it did this the first time I thought maybe it had water in fuel or something from setting the winter with no use. Today after draining tank mowed for about 30 minutes same thing. Seems like when governor kicks in it floods itself. Had a 9020 act exact same way last year. Bought new points and condenser and timed it still same thing. Put on new coil, still the same. Reached under bottom of carb and leaned it out a little ran like a top rest of year. But 4040 has fixed jet. Where do I start? Points condenser timing? Carb kit? I did put new spark plugs in and didn't help. What gives? Thanks in advance Sean

[tec2484 1]

Did you check for a mouse nest? I have 1 or 2 every year. This year it was a duplex condo with a nice balcony.:D:D:D

[blackfarms1 0]

How would a mouse nest cause this and were would it be if it did? I have had wasps and mice build nests and cause a heating problem but never anything like this. Sean

[johnmonkey 4]

I have heard that a mouse nest will block the air flow to the cylinders, after it warms up it gets too hot and shows the same symtoms as yours. Just a thought. jh

[D-17_Dave 12]

Easy to find problem if it's a mouse nest. Pull the air shields off the heads by the 2 1/4" nuts and look up into the flywheel area. Most likely you will see a wad of grass and such as soon as you pull the covers off. If this is the problem and you can pick out most of the debris, leave the covers off and start the engine so the flywheel fan can blow the remaining debris out. Reinstall the shields and you will be ready for a test run. The other possible problem is moister in the condenser. After the condenser heats up the moister will short the condenser out. A points engine will fire all day long but will not run without a good condenser for long.

[Guest]

Check for oil in the point box.

[blackfarms1 0]

Thanks all took shields off not 1 blade of grass etc. While a had it out today it started doing the same thing this time it was not even warmed up yet. That blows the heating up theory. There is a little oil in the points box though they are not wet. What is the fix for this? This has been a very good runner that I got from a club member It was maintained very well by him and myself as well. Always starts right up hot or cold. However if you open the throttle wide open with no load the engine surges always has. Put deck in gear runs fine. New points and condenser will here in morning. Can anyone think of anything else to try based on these new events?

[Guest]

Remove the point box cover and observe while running the engine at RPM's that normally produces the miss. There can be NO oil in point box-end of story. As for the fix you need to replace point plunger & associated parts. Regarding the internal copper conductor strap/lead that goes to the points take a piece of heat shrink tubing and cover the copper strap/lead. You can purchase a Briggs, 68768, plunger seal and other parts from Sandy Lake Implement,(724) 376-2489. If the bottom of the point box is heaved up in the center use washers and vise gripes to straighten it.

[Guest]

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[SteveP 0]

If you had water in the tank there could still be water in the carb bowl............

[blackfarms1 0]

Did not find any water in anything was just trying everything I could think off. Does the plunger seal start leaking suddenly or does it happen over time. Is this something that a person should keep on hand or change out on a routine basis. I am not sure that it is a miss it is like pulling the choke to kill an engine. Why would the points box be warped? What other plunger parts etc are needed besides the seal?

[Guest]

Call Sandy Lake Implement,(724) 376-2489 & ask for Brenda.

[JimS 1]

You might look at the check balls in the breather cap and make sure they are closing properly.

[jackcobb 11]

Mine did ecactly what you describe. It was oil in the points box. Dealer had a boot that he sold me to put over opening and the plunger slid up and down in. Buy the boot and give it a try.

[blackfarms1 0]

Well I'm at the end of my rope here. No water in tank or carb. New fuel filter,points,condenser,plugs,plug wires,air cleaner,coil,plunger,guide,and rubber boot. Was only a trace of oil in points box but I decided while I was there...even timed and reset points ran awhile then checked again. Don't really know anything about these fixed jet carbs but I am leaning toward a fuel problem of some kind. Did notice the hose from the breather cap to the air cleaner is missing probably has been for some time. This tractor does use some oil..about 1qt per 4 acres at a hard pull. Could this be a compression issue? Anybody got any Ideas? Help

[Guest]

Did you do the following as previously suggested: Remove the point box cover and observe while running the engine at RPM's that normally produces the miss. If there is no internal arching it could be the carburetor. Try setting the float lower.

[blackfarms1 0]

I did not see any arcing in points box. Will try setting float in carb. Sean

[wilm169 1]

Check the bottom adjustment the one on my 720 would back out and flood the engine. I know differant carb.

[blackfarms1 0]

Before I tear into the carb there is something else I noticed today. If I run with the throttle almost wide open other than not having much power the tractor will run fine. Governor will open and it will pull down and set right in and lug. If you run wide open it will start with the brown smoke and start cutting out even if the deck is not engaged. It wont pull itself up a hill till you back off a little. As long as you creep along it will do okay but even though I get a lot of tractor time I have 4 acres to mow and a job on the side. Thanks for all your help I am learning a lot about these tractors. Sean

[D-17_Dave 12]

Do you have a real good flow or fuel right up to the carb?

[Guest]

Check to make sure your gas cap is venting properly. As for your, "brown smoke", I've never seen or heard of "brown smoke". You have either black or blue smoke or a combination of the two.

[blackfarms1 0]

I will check fuel flow and gas cap. Sorry Gary, the smoke is black smoke. Sean

[Guest]

Black smoke as you probably know indicates it's getting too much fuel. Or one cylinder is mis-firing at high RPM.

[blackfarms1 0]

One cylinder is misfiring at high rpm... now to just find out why

[Guest]

Keep in mine that new parts can be defective! Do the easy things first: 1. Check compression on cylinder that is mis-firing. 2. Switch the plug wire and see if the mis follows the plug wire. 3. Switch the plug and see if the mis follows the plug. 4. Check the point box to see if you have internal arching and recheck timing and point settings. Timing has to be correct. If unable to achieve timing correctly change the point setting. 5. Substitute condenser. 6. Substitute coil. 7. Substitute 12 volt wire from coil to points. 8. Run a new temporary 12 volt wire from the plus coil to battery. 9. Sell the tractor to Mikefox. PS, Smell the oil and see if it is gas soaked, if so change oil & filter. NAPA has an additive that will lower oil consumption. It's Rislone Ring Seal. The above will not fix your problem. Cheers