Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
landlord2110

Differential problems again

Recommended Posts

landlord2110
On my Landlord 2110 had diff welded to axle after spending $125 for used diff and didnt last. The weld to the axle only lasted one year and the diff was welded on front side of axle with a 110 volt welder. Should it be welded on both sides of diff with a better welder or when you weld you are only welding to outer housing and wont hold from so much torque?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
I don't know what you are talking about when you say the diff is welded to the axle. None of mine are, or have ever been welded to the axle. I have had the control-torque, the limited-slip, and also locked diffs, and none of them were welded to the axle. This sounds like a hacked method of trying to fix a problem. Pictures would help us figure out how to help you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
landlord2110
the diff that was put on was a used one and didnt last very long before the tires started spinning when I'm turning left so we tried welding the end of diff to axle and it did last all last summer and winter but its back to spinning again and I took wheel off and the weld seal is broken.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mmischni
Can you describe better what you mean by "tires started spinning when I'm turning right?" Like the inside wheel is spining? If the diff was locked (or welded!), I would say you would definitely either get the inside wheel slipping or the outside wheel dragging, but not sure exactly what you are describing that you fixed with welding the diff. And I would say if you do a lot of turning with lots of traction (ags, or anything on pavement) that you will end up breaking something, either the weld or the next weakest link if you weld it better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
landlord2110
when I mow lawn and am making a left turn(the lawn chute is on the left side so I'm mulching whats been mowed)the right wheel spins and make cuts in the lawn. when I bought the tractor(my second landlord)it had this problem so I put on a used diff. it lasted for a while but not very long. it was recommended to weld diff to axle shaft, but that hasnt held.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mmischni
I am still new to these tube axle/differential units, so maybe that is giving me a hard time here... So you turn left, and the outside wheel spins. Does it noticeably spin faster than ground speed, or could it be mucking up the lawn by dragging a bit? I guess what I am getting at is that if the diff is not functioning, I would think you will have some cutting of the lawn on turns since one wheel will be turning at a different speed than that side of the tractor is moving (one will be dragging or spinning, depending on which side has more traction). If welding the diff actually fixed the spinning problem for a time, then I am not so sure what is happening. I would agree with duckman that pictures of what exactly was welded would help us with a diagnosis. Then if welding is the answer (!) then maybe we could suggest a better location to lay the bead??? Hope we are not talking in circles here... Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PatRarick
Sounds to me like all you need to do is adjust your traction control.


Should add that your tractor should have wheel bolts in the hub, while newer models have allen screws.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
UCD
There is a Nylon bearing and Nylon plug (blue) in the Diff. that puts pressure on the Axel when the two adjusting bolts (red) are tightened. This limits the wheel spin necessary in turning and traction control.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MPH
As that hub has bearing/bushings in it so it can spin on the axle, the amount of spin controlled by the adjusting bolts appling presure on the nylon bearings, I would think you would be basicly causing a locked rear end by welding the hub to the axle. When I first got my B-112, before I found the info source of this site, I had an almost impossible time turning it, torn the diff down and figured out the gear was in backward thus engauging/locking the rear end. Those adjusting bolts I beieve are torqued to 25 lbs. If your welding the hub it self, your also welding cast iron to steel, that takes more skill then my welding abilityB)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Welding the hub to the axle locks both rear wheels together and makes them turn at the same speed. When you make a tight turn the outside wheel needs to turn quite a bit faster than the one on the inside of the turn. With them locked together, there is a lot of stress on the assembly when turning. This is what re-broke the weld. I don't understand why you were having so much problem spinning the right wheel as you said. If the differential is assembled and adjusted correctly, it will work fine. I also don't understand how you can spin the right wheel when making a left turn. If you have both wheels locked together as you have when the assembly is welded, in a left turn, if the left wheel has the best traction, the right wheel will be dragged because it is turning too slow, and will tear up the ground. I had that problem when I assembled a diff incorrectly and it was locked, with both wheels turning together. From the explanations, I am still trying to see what the original problem was, before the welding. As Marty stated above, even if you want both wheels locked together, that can be done internally by just moving a couple parts. There is absolutely no need that I can see to weld those parts together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mmischni
I am stumped as to how your outside wheel would be spinning on a turn either with an open diff or with it welded. Your not taking these turns on a steep incline are you? :) I would think it would be something with the trans or hub-to-axle connections if it has done it with 2 differentials. If the key was gone from the left hub it might be spinning the axle in the hub, but that should leave you stationary, not with a spinning wheel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MikeES
The simplicity differential works great! Better than most others. Yes, you can spin an inside wheel when turning, or a uphill wheel that is unloaded but I have never spun out with one wheel on a hard straight pull. I have been tractor pulling for many years and have never spun out with one wheel. Climbing a wet grassy hill pulling a load too big for the tractor and never spun out with just one wheel. PS - a locked differential will raise havoc with the lawn.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MPH
How about some pictures of this thing torn down. On the picture showing the weld it looks as if the traction set screw is missing altogether. Maybe someone here can pic the problem outta enough detailed pictures.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
landlord2110
the screw is missing-it didnt work. it got lost somehow. upon further review I took tractor out to mow lawn and right wheel and tire spins when your turning sharp left or right. heres picture of what it does to lawn-I do have chains on but did it with chains off to.


Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MPH
Does your left wheel pull at all? With the right one welded to the axle, which the left one is suppose to be keyed to, they would have to be pulling the same, which is not going to go around a corner/curve without a wheel spinning. Now if your nylon bearing is shot in both you have tried, the blue parts in Maynards picture, or the nylon plug missing, tightening the set screw can't work. I have 5 tractors with that system and they all work fine with 20lbs torque on the adjusting bolt. Welding the right hub to the axle is not the fix for your problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
landlord2110
the weld doesnt hold now-there is a crack around the shaft of axle next to diff-the picture doesnt show that. the left tire is pulling. I was wondering if anybody reading this lives near my location. I live in Tioga,Pa. near the NY border and would take it to someeone who knows about these tractors. we have two simplicity dealers but they are not interested.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mmischni
Hi Roy, Here is a fun thought. My Broadmoor was spinning one tire excessively recently in all kinds of situations. Couldn't figure out why. Well, the next week I noticed that one tire was sagging a bit and needed air. I pumped it up and now it is as sure footed as an open diff ever is. I believe that one tire was at too low of a pressure. That made for a fatter footprint and a higher traction on that side which means the firmer tire will spin more easily. I suppose any other situation that would make one tire have better traction (better or different tread or chains!) could cause a similar situation. Granted, I was never spinning the outside tire on a turn, but thought I would mention it. Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
D-17_Dave
Sounds to me as if your diff. is busted. While welding the hub to the axle will bypass the diff. I'd say now you've created another problem. Best bet is to pull the axle back out of the tractor and replace it again from a known working unit. I know it's been changed, but with the unknown factors and the added welding you don't know where you'r really at as far as working properly is concerned. BTW, the hub is cast and the axle is steel. You'll have a very tough time at getting them to weld together no matter what you used.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
The screws themselves are no more than wheel lug bolts. The problem you will have is that the screws press against nylon pads which grip the axle to create a limited slip situation. If you have been welding on the hub, it is almost a sure thing that those nylon pads have been melted, or without the screws, they have probably fallen out of the holes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • Ronald Hribar
  • Today's Birthdays

    No users celebrating today
  • Recent Status Updates

    • Paul M.Murphy

      Paul M.Murphy

      Hello glad I got on this site. I hope to upload a couple of photos of my Simplicity Broadmoor 
      Model 707 Tractor. I have replaced all the belts on it and installed a new ignition switch.
      Have a mower deck which was in poor shape , repaced a couple of bushings and welded the
      deck where there was some holes. The tractor and mower deck came from a friend and the 
      mower deck metal was getting pretty thin. Some new metal was put in it and we also undercoated the underside of the deck. This was done by my friend Greg Toulman.
      I have not put the mower deck on the tractor yet, waiting for Greg to come home and give me a hand. Can you please tell me if there is a manual for the mower deck and where I could get one.
      I would also like to get some moon wheel discs as well.
      I will try and down load some photos of the tractor when my wife shows me how to. 
      I really love driving this tractor and also how well it is made compare today's tractors, especially the flexible rear end and the rollers.
      Tell the next time 
      Paul
       
      · 8 replies
    • jbrooks

      jbrooks  »  Talntedmrgreen

      Josh
       
      folowing  this from a link at the downloads.  I just rescued an AC 920 with the lambodini diesel. I can' t download  yet .  Where did you find the PDF copy you posted. . I would like to figure out how to adjust the injection pump. 
      I assume it's a bosche, correct
      · 0 replies
  • Adverts

×