fastallis Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 I have a few older B-series tractors that are not charging any more. Checked the coils in the starter/generator and they are fine so I kind of concluded that it must be the volt reg:(. I remember that they are very sensitive but can be adjusted. maybe somebody knows of a website that has that kind of info? any help is appriciated thanks John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firefoxz1 Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Coils maybe ok but the armatures may be shorted. I have 2 or 3 that work to start but don't charge and it's not the regulator. If still on the tractor a quick test is to ground the field coil and watch for voltage. Read this article, expalins a lot: http://www.simpletractors.com/service/electrics/starter-generator.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.Ikard Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 I am in the process of getting a tractor together with the S/G system and was curious about this adjustment as well. I have a new regulator and noticed I was maintaining 12.5-7 VDC in operation. I'd be more comfortable with 13.5-14.5 VDC. I am getting charging but the regulator seems to open at too low a voltage I can ground the "F" terminal and get a 15 amp charge. I just swapped this engine in a 914 Allis and wrapped it up last night so I don't have a long history to go on yet. Brent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmischni Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 I have used the link that firefoxz1 mentioned above for trouble shooting. It also has a very thorough discussion of the 3-pole regulators on the next page, including the ranges of voltages that they should cut in-out at and current limits. I think you should just be able to make small adjustments to the appropriate tension screws in the regulator to get the performance described in the article. Just make sure you understand how it works and that you are adjusting the spring tensions the correct way. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 John/Matt, "I remember that they are very sensitive but can be adjusted." You are correct John. The regulators for my 725 & B-1 have tangs that must be bent to adjust; no adjustment screws. Very touchy to adjust. More spring tension equals higher voltage. Thom, If the generator field coil is bad and the starter field coil is good then the S/G will work as a starter but not charge as a generator. Brent, We can discuss at SF this weekend. Voltage adjustment is tedious but easy to do. All, I had a fairly recent post on S/G repair and VR adjustments. Look at this link: "http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=78135&SearchTerms=S/G" A site search for "S/G" will turn up a lot of posts on the topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KraigRG Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 I had a problem on my '64 Landlord where it appeared as though the generator wasn't charging. When I started checking voltages with a voltmeter, I found that there was approx. 14.5 volts from the gen. terminal at the generator but only 12.5 volts at the battery. Investigating further I found I had 14.5 volts at the wire from the generator but only had 12.5 volts at the GEN terminal on the regulator. I then found a ceramic block, that had a thin metal strip wrapped around it, placed between the GEN terminal and the plate the wire was connected to (see picture). I removed the ceramic block along with the extra terminal and connected the wire directly to the GEN terminal on the regulator. The system worked normally after that. I don't know what the ceramic block device was. I've never seen anything like it before.[img]/club2/uploaded/kraigrg/generator.jpg[/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Hi, Sounds like one of the American Bosch fuses that were popular in the fifties and early 60s. One screw screwed into the regulator terminal and then the screw from the regulator tab attached the wire from the armature. The purpose was to protect the generator if the current section of the requlator doesn't properly limit the current. I still have 3 in stock. Al Eden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Al is correct. I have one of those fuses on the regulator for my B-1. GM cars used them back in the day of generators. I put one on the B-1 to protect the regulator and generator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willy Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 I had trouble with my gen on my B-10 the brushes looked serviceable,I put a new regulator on. It would want to charge the amp gage would jump when the throttle was advanced,but drop back. I toke it apart chucked it in the drill press and turned the commutate and installed new brushes. I think when the r.p.m. was increased the brushes would skip,at any rate it works now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMedal Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 It's a fuse. There's a reason they put the fuse in there, as described in the posts above. Several possible faults could lead to generator failure or electrical fire without the fuse in place, so either replace it with an exact replacement or fuse that line somewhere else. It will run fine without the fuse til the instant it really needs the fuse then costly things happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KraigRG Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 I had already added a separate fuse in the circuit when I rewired the tractor. I just never noticed the ceramic fuse until I started having generator troubles. I didn't think of it being a fuse. I guess because I've never seen a fuse with the fuse wire on the outside like that. Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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