Fuel leaking problem with carburetor

[fastallis 0]

I just recently purchased a B-112. It runs just fine except when you shut off the engine the fuel starts leaking out of the carb. We took the carb apart and found that the float had somehow got a crack in it and had filled up with gas so we emptied it and soldered the hole back up and tried that, but it still leaked. So we bought a new float and needle but it still leaked so now I think it needs a new brass seat. But the problem with that is, that it is nowhere in any parts manuals or on the internet(the dealer can't even find it). But the briggs repair manual specifically tells how to remove it and shows a cutaway of it. So if any body has purchased one of these or has any other suggestions on why the carb is leaking any info is appreciated. Thanks,

[MPH 12]

Seems to be a favorite passtime of these cast iron Briggs carbs when not running. I just install a fuel shut off either in line or right off the bottom of the tank on all mine.

[Ketchamized 2]

I concur with Marty. It's just easier (cheaper too) to put in a fuel shut off valve. Chances are, if you decided to fix it, it'll leak again in a couple years or so. I've had several tractors with Briggs engines, and the majority of them leaked at the carburetor. (It appears to me that pre-1980's B&S models liked to leak, while post 1980's engines are better about it.) The 1968 AC B-210 I have right now doesn't leak. But it will drip if I shake the tractor while it's parked.

[gregc 3]

I believe what you are looking for is Briggs part no. 394682 KIT NEEDLE/SEAT. This is supposed to include the brass seat. You may not need the brass seat that you mention. The problem is likely to be where the main jet seats. Read the comments by Pat Rarick in this topic where he describes the problem and fixes: http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=14856

[Guest]

Some ACE hardware's have a very nice metal in-line shutoff valve.

[ehertzfeld 1]

Just about every carb, that I rebuild leaks after.:(! I try and try to fix it, but in the end, a shut off valve, "sort of" fixes the problem.

[gwiseman 1,733]

Stens makes a fuel shut off valve that I use (my tractors sit in my basement). I purchased at a local auto parts store for less than on ebay but here is a link to one offered and a pic. http://cgi.ebay.com/INLINE-FUEL-SHUTOFF-FOR-BRIGGS-AND-STRATTON-SNAPPER_W0QQitemZ200105257059QQihZ010QQcategoryZ50371QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[OldFarmTractor 5]

Lately, I have used the fuel shutoffs for the tank. I take off the screen, take out the elbow from the carb and screw in the shut off. Has worked great in all cases.

[fastallis 0]

got the new valve seat kit installed it only cost around $6 and the carb is leak free. I've got a JC Penny with the same problem and am going to do the same thing to it. Thanks for all the help guys really appreciate it.

[Tacey 0]

quote:

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Originally posted by Ketchamized
... it will drip if I shake the tractor while it's parked.

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I hafta ask...Why would you shake a tractor while it's parked? Tacey PS: I have a fuel-line shutoff valve on all my gasoline-powered outdoor equipment. My Honda Harmony push-mower came with one right from the factory. I figure if Honda thinks it's a good idea, so do I.

[fastallis 0]

all of the older frame style tractors(B-200's to at least older style B-10)have fuel shut-offs under the gas tank. Some of them might be stuck but can be freed w/some wd-40 I personally just don't like all that stuff hanging off the side of the tractor:D John

[MPH 12]

Reason I replace the oem shutoffs is I prefer a shut off I just have to turn 90 degrees instead of screwing it in and out.

[toomanytractors 0]

I have had good luck with DuPont white polishing compound on a Q tip when replacing a needle valve. If the seat appears not to have any marks in it I put a small amount of compound on the Q tip and work it back and forth as you would when seating valves. Wash out with carb cleaner and blow out with air and it usually works. Dave

[mmischni 0]

Using the old needle valve with some compound is also a good way to lap the seat if it isn't in too bad of shape and you aren't inclined to change a seat out. You can carve a little slot in the end with a dremel so you can turn it with a screw driver.

Here is an old carb that I tried that on. Shined it up nice, but note the little gouge in the top surface.

[ZippoVarga 75]

John, What model is your JCPenney's????? I got a freebie about a year and a half ago that looked like this....

I didn't like how it looked so I did this....

Was a 6 month deal...6 months planning in my head and 8 days in the shop. 2.5 inch lowered body on the chassis, 4 inch stretch and a lot of paint, diamond plate and ingenuity. Sure...it doesnt mow, but who cares??!!?? It's FUN!

[ZippoVarga 75]

Oh yeah.......All my tractors have fuel shut off's. Regardless if they leak or not I always shut the fuel off and let the tractors run untill they siphon all the fuel from the carb. This way, if they sit for a while, there's no varnish to have to clean out of the carb. Glad to hear you got it all worked out!! Sean

[mmischni 0]

That is one pimped out ride! Diamond plate makes EVERYTHING better.

[gwiseman 1,733]

quote:

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Originally posted by ZippoVarga
Oh yeah.......All my tractors have fuel shut off's. Regardless if they leak or not I always shut the fuel off and let the tractors run untill they siphon all the fuel from the carb. This way, if they sit for a while, there's no varnish to have to clean out of the carb. Glad to hear you got it all worked out!! Sean

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I do the same Zippo... Tractors sit in basement and gasoline smell in the house isn't pleasurable scent when entertaining or returning from a long day @ office. Running engines until the carb is empty keeps carb clean and the 90 degree turn is just plain easy from the seat (you got it Marty).