Clutch Disengagement...Or Not

[mmischni 0]

Hi fellows, So I have adjusted my Landlord's clutch and brake linkages so that I have maximum disengagement of the idler, but it still spins up my trans pulley when in neutral. This makes for some nasty grinding when I try to engage a gear. If I am quick from one to the next, i can get it, but not if I get stuck between gears :) Is there a better way to adjust things? I noticed that the pulley off the BGB is kind of split with one side that spins independently when the belt is disengaged (white arrow). Is this part of the answer? What is the purpose of this split pulley? Also, note in the circle that I have a welded up piece of an old Hi-Lo unit on the trans. The pulley is pretty wobbly too, and I don't know if this may be part of my problem?

My Broadmoor disengages fully now that I have a new belt, but the new belt on the Landlord made no difference. Any ideas? Thanks! Matt

[MPH 12]

The split pulley on the BGB help with a smooth take-off, less wheellies. There is a rod off the brake band to the clutch linkage that can be adjusted also if you haven't. If your brake band has lining left on it, it should stop the tranny from spinning.

[mmischni 0]

So I should adjust the brake with a little bit-o-drag when the clutch is engaged? I hadn't thought of that! I will try it. Also, speaking of wheelies, is there something one could/should do to service the split pulley? Or are wheelies in 3rd kind of expected? :) Thanks for the help!

[IronPony 3]

I have found that on my AC712S that if I put the forward/reverse selector in neutral and take my foot off the clutch, I can put the gear shift in any speed with the engine running at any throttle setting without grinding gears if I just take my time doing it. Don't know if that is just the right way or what?? Dan aka IronPony

[UCD 14]

Correctly installed and adjusted belt stops is the most effective solution to grinding gears. No belt stops or incorrectly adjusted belt stops will cause grinding gears every time. The Belt stops prevent the belt from turning inturn turning the transmission pulley when the clutch is depressed therefore stopping the grinding of gears.

[mmischni 0]

Perhaps I am about to feel a little foolish. That little guard that goes around the BGB pulley, with the little round steel fingers? Is THAT the belt stop? I took that off to change the belt and haven't replaced it yet. Maybe I should try that before I go off complaining... So properly adjusted, i assume it doesn't contact an engaged belt, but will rub on a disengaged belt? Thanks :) Matt

[UCD 14]

That is one and there could also be a heavy wire one on the transmission pulley. Correct adjustment is to within 1/16th" of the belt in the pulley.

[stevenj 4]

Another thought. Check the adjustment of the brake band. If the brake is too loose you might travel the idler pulley farther than required and cause the belt to move away from the trans pulley too much. The belt needs to stop moving and drag slightly against the pulley to help it to stop rotating. Also, you might want to use the genuine Simplicity belt so you have the right length and cross section.

[MrSteele 495]

Your new belt doesn't look like it is the proper width or thickness, so it will not engage the belt stops. The Simplicity Belt should improve things a bit. Adjust your brake to completely stop the transmission pulley. An improperly adjusted brake will also not stop the tractor when you need to stop. Be careful to leave enough clearance so that the brake works and releases when it is not supposed to be engaged. As for the split pulley, there should be a shim between the pulley halves, and a shim between the inside half and the shaft it rides on. The shims appear to be more isolaters than anything, to stop noise while the transmission is engaged. The shims also allow the split pulley to do as it is designed and reduce wheelies. As for wheelies in 3rd gear? Get used to them. They are somewhat reduced when a Simplicity belt is used rather than a Gates or other brand.

[Roy 0]

Re: Wheelies New belts tend to grab when the clutch is engaged. Once the belt becomes broken in and slightly glazed on the sides the grabbing ceases and it is easier to feather the clutch in without popping a wheelie. My experience.

[mmischni 0]

Thanks for the advice so far. Just to let you know, that picture is still with the belt the tractor came with. I DO have the correct simplicity belt now. I learned with my Broadmoor that there is no substitute with the clutch mechanism. The picture also still shows the belt guide/stops on the BGB in place, but I did remove it to replace the belt and then didn't put it back on (cause I was in a hurry to try it out :) Steven, the idler is currently moving as far as it can since I thought I wasn't disengaging enough, but it still does contact the belt. I would think an idler with bearings wouldn't offer much resistance, however. MrSteele, The brake band does engage the drum, but when I am in neutral, the drive pulley is not stopped by the brake. That was my first thought, until I realized that the two aren't connected in neutral. I still need to replace and adjust the belt stops and see how that works. I will let you all know, and thanks again. Matt