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mclark100

5212.5 issues

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mclark100
I have a "new" used 5212.5 with a 36" deck. Its a GREAT tractor with the exception of 2 things. 1. When it is hot and I shut it off, it wont start again for several hours until it cools off, then it starts great. It turns over like gang busters when hot, but will not start. Is this a common or known issue and what are the possible resolutions? 2. I have it the lever adjusted at the highest deck setting and it is still mows too short. The dealer supposedly adjusted it to the highest possible settings. Is there anything else I can do (relatively easily). I am actually using the transport lever as a deck adjuster but the cut isn't as clean that way because the deck is not then level. Thanks Merrill

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4xbill
Welcome to the club Merril. I was hoping someone would have an answer for you already. My 5216 (same tractor bigger twin motor) does the same thing. I thought it may be the fuel in the line vapor locking. I rerouted a new fuel line outside the engine tins and that didn't work. Still trying to figure it out. It will run fine as long as you don't shut it off, right? Then it won't start until it cools down? Anyone have any ideas??XX( thanks

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DMedal
regarding your engine starting problem when hot, since it turns over great the next thing to check would be whether you have spark when you have the problem. So next time it is hot and won't start but will turn over nice, pull a plug wire and check whether or not you have a good spark to ground. Then report back to us. Spark during no-start means it is likely fuel related. Loss of spark during no-start makes condenser and coil suspect. But come back with your test results. The more experienced people here will have detailed tips then. -D

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rbw1052
My experience with this problem has been that the condenser is bad. The points are probably also worn. They break down when hot and cause engine to not start when hot. You could try replacing them as they aren't too expensive. As for the deck problem, I'm not sure of the type adjusters you have. But, I would check for worn bushings and rollers. These can affect the total height of the cut.Also look for cracks in the deck where the supports are attached that hold the deck up to the tractor. Good luck!:)

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mclark100
Hi Guys, Before I used it this weekend, I checked spark from plug wire with a screwdriver while I cranked it so I had a reference. After running for app 1 hour, it would not start back up, so I checked the spark the exact same way and saw nothing, no spark. Yes, it runs like a dream until I shut it off and try to restart it. Then I have to wait several hours, and it will then start right up. I have ordered a service manual but dont have it yet. So maybe it is the points, coil or condenser? Ae they difficult to replace? Thanks for all of your responses, Merrill

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DMedal
> So maybe it is the points, coil or condenser? Ae they difficult to replace? Right. I'd say condenser and then coil. Points are unlikely to care that much about temperature. Condenser is easy to replace, coil a bit less so. Both can be temperature dependant. I'd replace the condenser and see, if that fails the site here has good info on troubleshooting the coil. I think I'd want to see the coil failing tests before doing a replace. Of course you'd have to rush up and measure it while still hot. -Don

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firefoxz1
Should be no points and condenser on that model, should just be a mag coil. Have you had the tin off and check for debri/nests under the cover. I know the coils will do this if they overheat due to no cooling, or it could just be a bad one.

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mclark100
Hi everyone, I checked everything for excess debris and found nothing. After some further research on the actual engine, after I finally found the B&S model number on it, it seems that it has a Magnetron Ignition coil. I got the part number, and ordered one from Jacks small engines that supposedly comes with instructions. It was cheap enough, only about $13. So when I put it in, I will update you. Thanks Again for All of Your Help And Suggestions! Merrill

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PatRarick
Merril, I would suspect the ignition armature (coil). I also believe you have ordered the wrong part. $13 is about the price for the Magnetron ignition module only. This is used mainly to convert the point type ignition system to Magnetron. The Magnetron equipped armature should be closer to $40. The Magnetron module only, is Briggs #394970, and lists for $12.90. Without your engine numbers, I can't say for sure which armature your engine takes. It's either 398811 (lists for$40.90), or 492341 (lists for $36.25)

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misterfixit
Hello, I just had the same problem with my 5212.5. It drove me crazy when it wouldn't start when warm. I too thought magneto was bad, then I started thinking maybe it was interlock related. When the ignition wire to magneto was disconnected, it had nice hot spark and would start right up. Traced problem back to dsi interlock module by solenoid. With that out and wire on magneto, it would start. Now I am trying to find a used one because they are $50 new. Might be worth a try. Dave

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mclark100
Hi Guys, Thanks for everyones input. Pat, I also ordered the "Trigger Coil Ass'y Magnetron Ignition" for this engine, but have not received it yet. Hopefully there are instructions for replacing it that will come with it. I have a svc manual for tractor but not the engine. Dave, what and where is the dsi interlock? Will keep you guys posted. Thanks Again, Merrill

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misterfixit
Hello Merrill, The interlock is back by the solenoid, either a round or rectangular gizmo attached to the frame with wires that run to the seat, pto, and transmission switches. I just rewired a rectangular one to replace the round one I had. I can send you a wiring diagram for it if you want it. I tested the original one in another tractor and it was defective. Dave

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mclark100
Well, I got the Magnetron coil this week, but it did not come with any instructions. I know it has to go by the flywheel. Does anyone know how to replace it or have an instruction sheet for this process? Merrill

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