Dyed diesel vs diesel

[Nubian 3]

UCD and other diesel compatriots, I have been strugling with the choice of using #2 home fuel(dyed diesel) vs regular plain diesel fuel in my tractor. My home fuel oil supplier thinks i'm crazy not to use home heating fuel as opposed to paying for the higher priced diesel fuel at the pump. I know they are both the same except for the dye (tax purposes for our dear Uncle Sam)but I can't get over seeing that red fuel going through my fuel filter and also thinking about that gunk that accumulates at the bottom of our heating oil fuel tanks. What say you guyssm02?

[shanhamm 0]

I would think certain you can use "off road diesel" without issues... (Red dye) off road diesel is used in construction machines, skidloaders, generators, whatever doesn't have a license plate. And I have never heard or seen a problem with it. Use it, it won't cause any problems!!! :)

[firefoxz1 4]

It is not excactly the same, there are different conditioners and additives. I would find a fuel station that offers "off-road" diesel, it still has dye in it but is diesel fuel, you just don't pay the road tax on.

[ronb212 0]

the #2 is a lot dirtier and you will go through more fuel filters.

[UCD 14]

Eddie It hasn't hurt my 7790 yet and it got used hard. Always had the driver fill a fifty five gallon drum when he filled the fuel oil tank. Ask any fuel dealer and they will tell you #2 fuel is off road diesel. The dye is like food coloring it won't hurt a thing. Ask a trucker and they will tell you it is probably better for the engine and contains more lubricants than the low sulfur junk you get for on road diesel today.

[FastPaul 0]

Go with the #2 ,Not only cheaper but it has more lubricity , Effective 1/1/07 The pump deisel went to ultra low sulfer fuel 15 parts per million .Not good fuel for an older motor

[Tom_Byrne 0]

MY TWO CENTS: Go with the heating oil- I drove a fuel truck on & off for several years, and almost everyone used #2 with no problems. The only thing you may want to do is add diesel fuel conditioner or kerosene if you use it really cold weather, to keep it from jelling. As for long term use, a friend of mine has a 1973 Ford backhoe that he bought new and has been run on nothing but heating oil. He digs about 250 graves a year with it, and the motor has never given him any problems.

[Nubian 3]

Thanks guys #2 it is ^ UCD how often have you had to change your fuel filter?

[B.Ikard 2]

I'm not so sure there will be difference in the 2 fuels soon (other than price and dye), as the sulfur content has steadily declined in both fuels over the last 20 years.....sulfur made the fuel "oilier" with much higher soot and smoke. Remember trucks and all that black smoke taking off on hills in the 70's-80's:D "Hi Sulfur" fuel use is not free from problems. Increased oil contamination/change frequency for one. Ever noticed modern diesel engines oil does not blacken as fast nowdays. The downside with the ultra low sulfur fuels is potential shorter injector pump life. Using different materials in pump construction will solve this problem. I've never seen any evidence "off road" or red fuel is "dirtier" than "on road" fuel, and we used to go thru it @ 50 gph. I did get some nasty stuff in another country but the US stuff should be fine. I'd say the operating enviroment contributes more to the fuel filter changes than the fuel. Brent

[PatRarick 1]

As Tom (firefoxz1)stated, No. 2 burner fuel and off road diesel are not exactly the same. While both are diesel fuel and one will work in place of the other (with satisfactory results), off road has additional additives to help keep injector pumps and injectors clean, as well as to reduce carbon buildup in the engine. Though it's a penny or so more per gallon (last I checked) our supplier recommended our first furnace fill of the season to be off road diesel to clean the furnace burner and nozzle. Anyone who chose to do so was given off road for the same price as regular burner fuel. I remember an article on this in a farm magazine several years ago. It explained the difference. To illustrate, there was a photo of a farm tractor out in the field with a brick chimney in place of the exhaust stack and black smoke billowing out of it. The photo was captioned, "Your tractor is NOT a furnace. Why treat it like one?"

[UCD 14]

Eddie I change filters every couple of years as not that much fuel is being put though it as compared to a car or truck. I also use 4 or 5 ounces of ATF per 3 gallons of fuel in the tank every third or fourth tank to help clean the injectors. ATF is not effective in low sulfur fuels. I have an on road diesel pump 1000' feet from my house and I also use it. I have not seen any difference in performance or amount of smoke from my engine using either one. You could also go to the parts store and get a quart of Cetain (Cetain is the diesel equivalent of octane in gas) fuel conditioner and add as recommended on the container. [url="http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rls=HPIB,HPIB:2005-48,HPIB:en&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=1&ct=result&cd=1&q=Diesel+cetane&spell=1"]Google Search Diesel Cetain[/url] http://dieselfuelsystems.com/default.asp http://www.farmwaycoop.com/petroleum.html http://www.thedieselstop.com/ http://www.exxon.com/USA-English/GFM/Products_Services/Fuels/Diesel_Fuels_FAQ.asp http://www.leeric.lsu.edu/bgbb/7/ecep/diesel/b/b.htm

[rsachs 0]

I am by no means an expert on the subject, but my understanding is Biodiesel in a 20% blend will have a higher lubricity than the 15ppm ultra low sulfur diesel. Should be less expensive too, but not sure if it is cheaper than off road fuel.

[dlcentral 1]

My local fuel oil guy says that as of this fall ALL diesel and or heating oil will be 15 ppm ultra low sulfer.I've used 100% biodiesel,in warmer temps only, in my 920 for 2 yrs now and have had no probs.Seems to run much quieter,and less smoke.Plus it smells pleasent, like barbequed chicken,Cold starts down to about high 30s low 40s temps are no prob., . in colder temps I switch to 100% reg road diesel,

[BLT 725]

Always get a written document on how bio-diesel affects your engine. There are shortcomings. Bio guys say their stuff is as good as sliced bread. Ask your fuel supplier for a warranty document on his product. Let us know if you get one and/or understand it.

[Kenh 37]

I drive a fuel truck for a local "energy" coop. All we do is fuel and lubricants. Here is my take on diesel fuel......... Use "dye" fuel but make sure it is a "premium" fuel. (see link below) Use a fuel conditioner if you buy a large quantity as the new fuels are not as stable as they once were. (much shorter shelf life) If you want to use "bio" fuel, use soy oil, not animal fat bio. 2% is enough to make up for lost lubricity. Our standard mix is 5%. Watch out for water contamination from condensation. The sulfur in the fuel used to provide some protection from bacteria. A good premium fuel will help with this problem. Follow this link for the blurb on Cenex fuel http://www.cenex.com/Downloads/CenexRubyFieldmasterAgEquipment.pdf The only difference between on road and off road fuel is the color and the road tax. 47 cents here in Iowa. A 50/50 blend of #1 and #2 will take you through all but the coldest weather. Cenex Field Master is good down to -10 after September 1st. They add a cold flow improver at that time. I'm sure other brands do something similar. This is where I work. http://www.kandhcoop.com/ There is a really good link to a bio fuel site there. OK..... Permission to flame away:D

[Unkle Spike 0]

My brother owned diesel cars and trucks for a long time now, and he said Cenex Field Master was the best he had used, and put in a tankful now and then. The coop was a ways from his house so he couldn't use it daily but would get it if he was "out that way". The dye is just that, dye, it is only used to seperate on and off road diesel to catch on-roaders trying to avoid road tax.