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Isleblue65

Magnetron, a bit confused

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Isleblue65
I just got a Magnetron kit from Jacks. My tractor was getting intermittent spark and suddenly stopped running while mowing last weekend. I assumed that the magnetron kit was to replace points/ condensor, but: a) I didn't realize that you have to pull the motor to install it. I assumed everything was done under the points/ condensor cover. b) It says in the instructions: "This module may be used ONLY on twin cylinder and cast iron engines which were originally equipped with the MAGNETRON system due to modifications to the armature or flywheel." My engine number is: 326431 The tractor is around 1975. I don't want to waste my time pulling everything apart unless this conversion kit will work. If it won't work, is there a kit that will convert an older engine to electronic? I may just get points and a condensor for now because I need the tractor this weekend and didn't realize this was such a big deal. Any suggestions or information? Thanks, Craig

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Chris727
Did you get a whole magneto unit or just that little add on thing? Generally whenever you convert the old cast iron briggs to magnetron ignition you must remove the flywheel and ship it to briggs and stratton where they will change the magnets in the flywheel so it will run correctly with the magnetron.

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Isleblue65
I got a Magnetron ignition kit. It was around $13 from Jack's. It bolts onto the back of the armature. The instructions say that the flywheel has to be removed and the key replaced. Other than the ignition system module, this kit also has a leg of wire and a flywheel key. I had no idea that this required the flywheel to be sent back to Briggs? If this is true, I'll get points and a condensor and send this thing back to Jack's or save it for a winter project.

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Roy
Might be wrong but think if you get a universal electronic ignition module all you have do is wire in to replace the points without pulling the flywheel or worrying about the flywheel magnet polarity. The universal modules are available at NAPA, Jacks Small Engines, E-bay and numerous other sources. Let us know what you wind up with and how it works.

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Isleblue65
Shoot, I got the wrong part Roy. I typed in "universal electronic ignition module" on Google and up came Jack's Small Engines. A few parts further down on the list from the Magnetron I ordered was the universal module. I didn't scroll down far enough.javascript:insertsmilie('C') DissapproveC I'll have to pick one up at Napa or a garden tractor shop tomorrow so I can get her running Saturday. Thanks for the replies

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johnmonkey
I had a magnetron ignition placed on my 10hp B/S, the flywheel needed to be re-poarized. Briggs re-polarized it for free, I had to pay for shipping. I did try an ignition module on my 7.25 hp B/S (19d) and it did noy work. The points push rod has worn too short. JH

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Roy
JH, I put a module on my Model 19 without using/going through the points. It worked fine except for a propensity to kick backwards when starting and blowing head gaskets. Engine ran fine last time I used it but blew the head gasket (for 2nd or 3rd) time when I was pulling in the garage. This was an electronic module running with the Model MagnaMatic ignition coils on and around the crankshaft. My experience.

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Isleblue65
I picked up a NAPA Electronic Ignition module. It can be installed near the points and condensor by just cutting the points wire and routing it through the module. My only concern is that in the instructions, it says "This module will not work on engines with battery ignition, twin cylinders or flywheels with multiple magnets." What??? Why wouldn't it work with a battery ignition (I assume this means engines that are started with a battery, not pull start)? I have no idea if my ignition coils are Magnamatic or what. I hope this works. If not, new points and condenser are going in and I'll be done with it.

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Roy
"Battery ignition" means use of a external coil like a Kohler engine or automobile engine. e.g. The module works with magneto ignitions that are self energized by magnets in the flywheel rather than battery voltage to a coil. Magneto ignitions usually have one magnet in the flywheel to create a voltage impulse/spike when they pass by the coil mounted close to the flywheel. Unless your engine has an alternator integral to the flywheel don't worry about multiple magnets. e.g. If your engine has an external starter/generator it will not have multiple magnets. MagnaMatic ignition systems were on the early Model 19 B & S engine. Your Model 326431 has a standard magneto ignition system.

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Ketchamized
Craig, I put electronic ignition modules in 3 engines, and had great success with all 3 of them. I'm not sure why some people are having problems with them? Most ignition modules needs to be mounted on the engine somewhere. I mount them under the points cover. But, some people say they have overheating problems when they do that. So, for that reason, I would recommend you to install it under the flywheel cover, so that the fins will help cool it. By the way, the ignition modules I installed were all put in 243431 engines (10 HP cast iron engines that you see on Landlords and AC B series)

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Isleblue65
Well, I installed the modulator and I'm still getting no spark. What is the fiber insulator with the black and white wire joining each other there? It was mounted to the points and condenser cover. In the instructions for the modulator it says to separate the ignition coil primary wire and stop switch wire. It then says to splice the lead on one side of the modulator to the coil primary and kill switch leads. There is only one wire going to the points and that leads back into the engine cover where the coil is. I removed this lead from the points and put it on the modulator spade. The other modulator spade goes to ground. I am wondering if one of the wires on that fiber insulator is the kill switch lead? One wire from the fiber insulator goes back into the engine cover where the coil is and the other to the instrument panel. In any case, I tried attaching the wires from the fiber insulator to the modulator lead that now goes to the points lead, but still zero spark. At least with the points and condenser last weekend I was getting a very intermittent and weak spark. Is it necessary to have access to the coil for some reason? The instructions for this module say that it is, but they may assume that the points and condenser are under the cover. It looks like the only way to access that area is to remove the engine. I'm not finding a wiring diagram for this on line. Not sure what to check next... Craig

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DMedal
quote:
Originally posted by Isleblue65
One wire from the fiber insulator goes back into the engine cover where the coil is and the other to the instrument panel.
The wire from points to instrument panel is your kill wire. ground it and the engine dies. Unhook it for now. CAUTION: this is not a safe way to run a tractor as you can't turn it off with the key. Do spark test and once fixed hook the kill wire up again. Now follow your modulator's connection instructions. Do not connect the points into the circuit. The modulator goes to ground, and to the wire to the coil. There may be another connection (see instructions) but for now at least the points and condenser should no longer be connected to any wires. Good luck and report back.

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Isleblue65
I just did a spark test and have no spark. I can hold the wire in my fingers from the coil and there is nothing. I should get a slight shock I would think. Disconnecting the kill wires at the fiber insulator did nothing. The points and condenser are completely out of the circuit. The old points wire from the coil is connected to the new module and the other module leg goes to ground. Doesn't it sound like I have everything connected correctly? So this points to a coil issue? Craig

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