'64 Landlord Rear End

[Mashbox 0]

I am trying to get my fathers Landlord going for my 11 year old son. Got the engine running good, and started replacing fluids. After draining the old nasty fluid out of the rear end and replacing with new, I noticed the next day the fluid was leaking. It looks like it is leaking around the axle seals. Does the rear end need to be torn completely down to replace these, or can they be replaced by just pulling the wheels off?

[johnmonkey 4]

Welcome to the club, I think the seals can be replaced without removing the rear end. Is your fluid level correct? There are three plugs on the rear end: bottom plug = drain, middle plug = fill level, and the top plug = air vent. Before this site, mine leaked, because I filled the rear end up to the top plug. I drained it back down to the middle plug and it has not leaked. JH

[HubbardRA 19]

You can replace the seals without taking the tranny apart. You will, however, need to remove the axle and the differential so that all the large parts and the keys are removed from the axle tubes. You should be able to use a small screw driver and pry out the old seals. Be careful and don't damage the surface the seal rides on. It is recommended that wax paper be taped over the tubes or adhesive contact paper be places over the tubes before the new seals are slid into place. This will help prevent damaging the new seals be nicking them on a sharp edge. Slide them on, tap in place, and reassemble the axle parts. It should be no more than a couple hours of time to replace the seals.

[toomanytractors 0]

After all of the above I have one more suggestion: Make sure that the bushings in the case where the axle comes through are not worn on the top side. If they are worn bad enough a new seal will probably leak long before it should. Regards, Dave

[Mashbox 0]

The fluid level is correct, no overfilling. I filled at the center plug, using 1 1/2 quarts of fluid as indicated in the manual I downloaded from the Simplicity website. I do not know when the fluid was last changed. I know it has been at least 20 years. The tractor has had limited use in that time, and no use for the last 10 years. I think due to it being so thick and nasty there was no way it would leak, especially since I only rolled it around by hand prior to changing the fluid. Thanks for the help. Is there anything else you would recommend I do at the same time I replace the axle seals?

[Al 6]

Hi, A little trick for removing seals. We often pull hard to get at seals 3 or 4 of different ways. One is to take an awl nail and punch a small hole in the side of the seal on each side of the shaft. Then you can put a hex head sheet metal screw in each of the holes. If the casting is solid behind the seal, you can just screw the screws in and it will push the seal out. Sometimes you need to use 4 holes. More commonly we use either a bar like a super bar, or a carpenters ripping hammer claws to pull the seal with the screws. We most often use a slide hammer and weld a sheet metal screw into a nut that will screw into the holes. You can also buy a slide hammer at auto parts stores that have a nut on the end that has a small hole in it to run a sheet metal screw through and then screw the nut on the end of the slide hammer. These are used to pull sheet metal dents up, but make good seal pullers and are quite inexpensive. Al Eden

[andrewk 0]

I have a seal tool made by Lisle tool that has flat steel piece that has a bend in it to get to the frame of the seal, and then it has an adjustable fulcrum point on which to pry the seal up. It works ok. The aforementioned screw trick is not only cheaper, but in my opinion, yields a higher success rate than the tool. Andy