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hcalmar

7016H engine replacement

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Kent
Unless it exploded, I'd recommend rebuilding the one that's in it. Cost would be about $500 and it'd be good for another 30 years... There's no direct replacement for these engines. Some people put 2-cylinder Vanguards in there, but you lose the front PTO capability and have to run any front implements off the center PTO...

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DanD
I agree with the recommendation to rebuild the engine. I rebuilt the engine a couple of years ago in my 7016...cost about $700 including the machine shop to bore the cylinder, but I put everything new in the engine..new crankshaft, rod, governor, piston..and it now runs perfectly. Have been using Mobil 1 5W40 in it year round and it doesn't use a drop between oil changes.

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hcalmar
One additional concern I have and wish to mention is safety issues for my 10yr old son. He wants to start mowing, he already plows, but I am unwilling to let him unless I can retrofit the seat to have it shut down the mower when the operator gets off. The newer tractors have this but ofcourse the replacement cost is 5k. Has anyone added a cut off? One other thing, I noticed the conversion kits seem to apply to the 7100 family not the 7000 specifically. Is the 7100 family a big change in the chassis? The advantage to the vangard conversion is my carb is also shot ( it was a loose screw that trashed the pistion). I may be better off new and do not use the front pto. Thanks for the replies. Hal

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goatfarmer
Welcome to the best Simplicity site on the web!^ You can use "almost" any single cylinder Briggs horizontal, but it won't be a bolt in. Some mounting, wiring, and accessory mount modifications will need to happen. It's all doable, just depends on your engineering ability, and time constraints.

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Morris
Hal, your concern for your son is right on target; as an EMT with a 911 ambulance system, I have seen some pretty horrific injuries and even deaths attributed to mowers and tractors. There is one simple way to engineer a safety switch, if you're handy with tools and simple wiring. Try finding a momentary contact switch, normally OFF (no current passes through unless pressed). Mount this where his foot could keep it pressed, if this is possible (not sure how the 7016 is set up, need to check pics) Run one lead to coil and other to ground; it is basically a kill switch, then. You get the picture, if he takes his foot off the switch, it will die. Of course, this might not be practical if the terrain is rough, lots of bumps, etc. Another thought is you might be able to find a complete seat from something else with a switch already mounted. Should be fairly straightforward no matter which way you go. I've even seen a guy who had two electical terminals spring loaded and ready to close with only a small block of thin wood keeping them apart. On the end of the little block of wood was a cord or chain looped to the rider's belt. If the rider gets off, the block of wood pulls out, the terminals come together, and the motor is grounded out. Pretty neat, and very effective, kill system. Hope any of these ideas might help.

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UCD
The best safety switch is not to let them on the tractor, and if and when you do make sure they are well trained in safety procedures and correct operation of the equipment. Even with all of to days idiot and safety switches and features Kids still get hurt. The school of hard knocks is not the way to learn on dangerous equipment.

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HubbardRA
If you are insistent on letting him mow, then you can get the seat hinges and switch from a 7116 and bolt it directly to the fender pan of your 7016. You may have to drill a couple holes, I am not sure. Then all you have to do is wire the switch so that it shorts out the magneto when nobody is on the seat.

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Learning
The safety cut-off is an important issue. Nothing can be more tragic than a mower accident. Maybe we could have a club contest for who can design the most practical cut-off switch. The design could encompass all the early Allis / Simplicity models that didn't have them. We have some very mechanicly inclined and inventive club members and this contest could save a loved one or family member. Seems like a worthwile cause.

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2burning
Personally, I have always wanted to fit my machines with a tether that clips securely to my clothes, like on those treadmills, and hooks into the ignition system, similar to Morris's idea above. Will probably never get around to it. I like the tether idea because I am most worried about a rollover, and I am usually sitting on the fender to begin with an a hill so the seat switches to my way of thinking make a mower even more dangerous because you can't counterweight the machine for the safest ride on a hill. JMO, and yes I am missing body parts from a mower. The newer Sovereign 18 seat isn't too bad, because it only takes just a little bit of my thigh to keep the switch set since it operates on weight on the seat hinge springs. The worst are those switches embedded in the center of the foam in the seat!

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rsnik
If your yard is flat and presents no hazards I would still worry, but if there is any steep terrain or embankments I would really worry. I have 27K SF of lawn. One large flat area with orchard and veggie garden at one end and the other end fans out and down into a bowl shaped valley on the right and down some quite steep terrain to a second large flat lawn to the left. There is a moderately steep, good sized hill thrown in for good meaasure. I have 2 Baron shuttles. One is set up for this with aggy tires, chains and weights on the rear and Carlyle NHS tires (which I think are for snow, but very aggressive) on the front. It has a transplanted, later model 16 HP, cast iron, one cylinder Briggs. It started running like fouled points. I took the points cover off and there are and never were any points in there, just the smooth, steel side of the block with no holes except the two cover screw holes (?????). So I jump on the other Baron shuttle I recently got running that has the original Carlyle Turf Savers with practically no traction at all. The short, steep section is the first thing and the tractor starts up the hill no problem. Then the points short out and the tractor coughs and dies. The tractor skids backwards. There are no brakes on the front and the front is real heavy so the front end wants to come around and does and the tractor rolls. Fortunately my son was there and some chain and we got her righted very quickly. There was a crease in the hood I always wondered about. Now there are two. It comes from the manual lift handle bending over into the hood. She has been rolled before. Bent the lift handle back, set the points and no damage other than the second hatch mark on the hood. Would not want to see a young man involved in a roll over though, obviously.

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