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Replacing Rear Lift Cable


haykarenhardy

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I need to replace a rear lift cable on a 7116. My dealer tells me They were sold with the attachment, In different sizes. He also said they run about $50.00 each. Is it worth the trouble to make up one myself. I can only find cable clamps at hardware and TSC stores in town. I would like to try the factory type that is crimped on, or are they only available on a factory made cable? Stan
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They are sold separately not with the attachments and only came in one size for the 7100 series. You will also need the pulley. The cable clamps do not work good. A parts store might have the ferrules and be able to crimp but again not like The OEM cable.


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Jack's Small Engines has them listed for $29.22, but they are sometimes slow on some items. If you are in a hurry you might try Brenda at Sandy Lake Equipment or any of the other sponsors here. Jack's is usually about 10% under list of most dealers, but they do not stock as much and order by demand.
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The prices at jacks might be cheaper but the hassles aren't worth it. The service at Sandy Lake Imp PRICELESS
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You wouldn't happen to have that same parts diagram for a 7000 series would you? I'd like to try to find the rear lift parts for my AC-712S
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Randy, I can't post a pic right now, but here are the links for the manuals for MFG #1690045 Rear lift Kit: http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_400_1044_00_AT_S.pdf http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_200_2874_00_SK_SMA.pdf http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_200_3375_00_SK_SMA.pdf
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There is a problem with making homemade cables. The clamps or ferrules, if you have a crimping jig, will hold the load. The real problem is room/clearance. If you look at what would be the front end of the cable, where it goes over the pulley, you will see that there is not much room between the pulley and the end where it attaches to the rockershaft with the pin. There is not enough room to get the cable clamped good with the u-bolt type clamps, and the ferrule type crimp-on clamps will end up too long unless the loop is kept very small and tight. I have a homemade cable with a crimped end on the front and I used the u-bolts for the rear so that I could re-adjust the length if needed, since I didn't have the screw end as the factory cable does. It works good except that the motion is somewhat limited because the ferrule on the front hits the pulley and will not let the cable move thru it's full motion potential. It is possible to make a cable, but a factory cable will work better for the average person, with less problems. I recommend that you buy one from Sandy Lake. Just call Brenda, she will take care of you.
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You can get crimp ends (and all sorts of other cable hardware) from McMaster Carr. Although I don't have a proper crimp tool, I use a center punch to get a reasonable crimp.
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I have been using a homemade cable on my 7014S and 916H (with hydraulic lift) and have no problems with it getting caught up in either the front pulley or the rear. I regularly use a moldboard plow, tiller, and sleeve/donut weight in the winter. That's my experience, yours may be different. If you are going to purchase I agree with the experiences related to jacks, it will take a while and shipping won't be the cheapest.
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