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skunkhome

It's ALIVE!

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skunkhome
Well, I installed a battery powered coil on my ole 3414s today and to my astonishment It is alive!


The wiring job and steel plate are a bit crude but was a hasty job to get the ole girl running today. As it stands I have to pull a blade fuse to shut down the motor. Actually it wasn't really that straight forward as the carburetor was so far out of adjustment there was no hope of it ever starting. I went in and got my manual, followed the directions for initial setup of the carburetor and it actually started and ran pretty well... so much so that I put it to work earning its keep.


I busted up an old wooden deck and hauled it to the street for the trash pick up tomorrow. The shuttle worked well after my readjusting the guard on the front clutch sheave. I still need to do some fine tuning on the carb but all in all I am very pleased. Even though the generator is not charging the tractor ran for about 1-1/2 hours with no sign of quiting though the battery was not very crisp to start. There were strange noises coming from the midsection of the tractor so I shut it down and checked the BGB. I found it full of a fluid that had a pink cast and certainly not as pungent as gear oil general is. I promptly drained the gearbox and refilled with fresh gear oil. It sounds a bit better but I may have to rebuild the BGB in the near future. Tomorrow I am going to set out in earnest to change the oil, grease all the fittings and re-pack the shuttle planetary gears. Maybe things will smooth out with a little TLC. Also tomorrow I intend to start rewiring the tractor so that the battery ignition and starter circuit can be activated off a single keyed switch. I had been looking all over for the switch I wanted with no success until I happened into O'Reilly Auto Parts yesterday and received uncommon help for one of their employees named Alvin. I told him what I wanted to accomplish and he quickly produced a suitable coil and a quality $10. ignition/starter switch I had spent a week looking for.


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skunkhome
quote:
Originally posted by tec2484
Is that a resistor coil or do you have an inline resistor?
Geoge, Yes, it is a resistor coil BW #E40P. Did not get a lot of help out of local parts houses finding one as no one was knowledgeable enough to know one from the other and all wanted me to tell them what "car" I needed it for so that they could look it up. Alvin at O'Reilly was the only person I came across who could speak with authority and then produce the parts immediately. Alvin has just earned his place in my book as the "go-to-man" for my automotive parts needs. (Oh, lucky him!) He probably won't be there next week when I start working on the charging system.

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skunkhome
Finished rewiring today including a fused wiring harness for "new" Soda can headlights. This old tractor is starting to show some promise.


I tried them out this evening and they produce a very wide flood that lights the yard pretty well.

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rsnik
Hi Skunkhome, Just found out I have to complete the same job on my 7016 with a Briggs 16. No spark. I think BWD is maybe Borg Warner, I know they make quality automotive ignition parts. I checked around the internet and I am going to find where I can get these same parts as they sure look like the right stuff. So I am looking at the picture of the coil. Is the red wire battery voltage and is it connected to the positive post on the coil? I see the capacitor is mounted right on the coil and is connected to the other post (the negative post?) on the coil. I am guessing the green wire goes from the negative post on the coil to and runs down to the points. I am not sure I understand how it works. I am guessing the battery voltage hot wire is connected to the positive terminal on the coil and the other wire goes to the points. When the points close they ground and complete the circuit causing the primary winding in the coil to charge. When the points open the circuit is broken, causing the field on the primary winding to collapse onto the secondary winding, inducing big voltage in the iron core which goes to ground out the spark plug wire, discharging the voltage into the spark plug. The capacitor prevents arcing from burning the points. If I just need to connect the red wire to battery voltage and the green wire to the points this sounds too good to be true. You probably are not even using points, right? One last qustion. What's up with a resistor coil? I can remember when cars had a resistor shunt circuit so that the balast resistor could be bypassed and deliver full voltage to the coil when starting the car. Does resistor coil still mean more voltage at starting or is it something suppression of radio interference? Whew! Got a little long winded there. Thank you. rsnik

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rsnik
Hi again skunkhome, Just found a how-to article describing the whole job in the DIY section. Still think the parts you bought are the hot set up. I bet the red wire goes to your new ignition switch! rsnik

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skunkhome
quote:
Originally posted by rsnik
One last qustion. What's up with a resistor coil? I can remember when cars had a resistor shunt circuit so that the balast resistor could be bypassed and deliver full voltage to the coil when starting the car. Does resistor coil still mean more voltage at starting or is it something suppression of radio interference? Whew! Got a little long winded there. Thank you. rsnik

RSnik, I don't know how it works! But yes the red wire runs from the (+) side of the coil back to the ignition switch thru a 10A inline fuse. The green wire runs from the (-) post to the points. BTW that new ignition switch is very clearly marked Battery, ignition, accessory and start. About the only thing you need to know is how to read. Below is the finished wiring job (the red wire leading to the grill is the lighting circuit) I made a three wire wiring harness running up the left side of the motor behind the carb.




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rsnik
Really nice work. A pleasure to see. Yep, that ignition switch spells it out loud and clear. This is a big help. We will see how it goes, but by golly I think I get the picture. Thanks, rsnik

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